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Chrysler A/C help??


CEThomas
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Anyone know much about Chrysler a/c compressors? I have a 98 Durango that the clutch is out on but the compressor is good. I have another compresssor that I know the clutch is good in but not sure about the compressor itself. Need to know if the clutch on this compressor can be switched out without having to evac the ac system or if I should just evac it and swap the compressors.

 

Thanks,

 

Charles

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How do you know that the original compressor is good? What caused the clutch to go bad? Swapping clutches doesnt necessitate a system discharge, but you will probably need a special puller, and you will need to set the clutch air gap with shims. Might be easier to swap whole compressors.

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Check the price on a new clutch. We just did one on a squad car at work the other day. Didn't have to use any puller, although it called for it and an installing tool... Just used gentle taps with a hammer side to side to get it off, and a big socket and gentle taps to get it back on. Went really smooth. I was very suprised.

 

Rob L.

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How do you know that the original compressor is good? What caused the clutch to go bad? Swapping clutches doesnt necessitate a system discharge, but you will probably need a special puller, and you will need to set the clutch air gap with shims. Might be easier to swap whole compressors.

 

Compressor is not locked up, full charge and worked prior to clutch going out. May be less work to swap out thanks.

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Check the price on a new clutch. We just did one on a squad car at work the other day. Didn't have to use any puller, although it called for it and an installing tool... Just used gentle taps with a hammer side to side to get it off, and a big socket and gentle taps to get it back on. Went really smooth. I was very suprised.

 

Rob L.

 

 

Thanks,

 

The clutch assembly looked like it was also the front case of the compressor. Did not know if it would be as sample as removing a couple bolts and swaping out the assembly or if I had to replace seals bearings and set gaps :ack:

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Thanks,

 

The clutch assembly looked like it was also the front case of the compressor. Did not know if it would be as sample as removing a couple bolts and swaping out the assembly or if I had to replace seals bearings and set gaps :ack:

 

On the squad, the new clutch came with all the spacers we needed. Check with the dealer. No seals/re-charging needed. Go with a new clutch if your going to replace, little bit of money, but probably save you from doing it twice. ;)

 

Rob L.

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Chrysler uses multiple compressors. Some require pullers and installers, some don't.

 

 

COMPRESSOR CLUTCH

The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement. The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.

 

REMOVAL

Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Cooling System for the procedures.

Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector.

Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool 6462 in Kit 6460) into the holes of the clutch plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut Clutch Nut Remove

Remove the clutch plate and the clutch shims.

Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers External Snap Ring Remove

Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1 in Kit 6460) into the snap ring groove exposed in Step 7, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 in Kit 6460) Shaft Protector and Puller

Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws of the rotor puller and tighten Install Puller Plate Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free

Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing Clutch Coil Lead Wire Harness

Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil Clutch Field Coil Snap Ring Remove Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub

INSPECTION

Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the front plate for wear. The pulley and front plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.

 

If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for oil. Remove the felt from the front cover. If the felt is saturated with oil, the shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced.

 

Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if required.

 

INSTALLATION

Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.

Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.

Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub.

Thread the handle (Special Tool 6464 in Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 in Kit 6460) Rotor Installer Set

Place the driver tool assembly into the bearing cavity on the rotor. Make certain the outer edge of the tool rests firmly on the rotor bearing inner race Rotor Install

Tap the end of the driver while guiding the rotor to prevent binding. Tap until the rotor bottoms against the compressor front housing hub. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the rotor.

Install the external front rotor snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove

CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.

 

Install the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft.

Install the clutch plate. Use the shaft protector (Special Tool 6141-2 in Kit 6460) to install the clutch plate on the compressor shaft Clutch Plate Install Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the clutch plate

Replace the compressor shaft hex nut. Tighten the nut to 14.4 N·m (10.5 ft. lbs.)

Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge Check Clutch Air Gap If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031 inch) If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation

NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch

 

Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation.

CLUTCH BREAK-IN

After a new compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty times (five seconds on, then five seconds off) During this procedure, set the heater-A/C control to the recirculation mode (Max-A/C), the blower motor switch in the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque capability.

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