2000 Cherokee XJ interior swap to 1986 MJ

[Jonny878]

--My goal of this swap is to use all existing MJ wiring to accommodate the later model hardware--

 

I started this post here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=784661

 

But I could not post pics, which I will here. I will go back and revisit the steps and give a little more detail of solutions, more pics and problems I ran into. So here goes...

[JeepcoMJ]

I need to follow the link but...

 

 

how did you make the gauges work? what did you do instead? you really cannot convert them to actually work without making an interface ECU to interpret the proper sensor input to convert it the right signal for the gauges.

[Jonny878]

Yes, you are correct. The sensors will be a little more tricky. I am still trying to get time put aside to get the rest of my dash frame in. I am currently rewiring the HVAC system. I currently have the wiring diagrams for the XJ. Once I get that fan control configuration worked out I will move on to a couple of other areas.

 

The gauge cluster will be last on my dash install. I most likely will retain all 'idiot lights' and put them into a different configuration and move to electrical gauge sensors. The speedo looks like it will be straight forward, but I am going to look at that in more detail later.

[1999MJ]

it will never work :roll:

[Jonny878]

it will never work :roll:

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

 

I installed this about a 1 1/2 months ago. Two problems occurred.

 

1) the lower dash bracket will need be close to exact. I am going to have to readjust it. Before marking your holes for the two floor board dash bracket nuts, verify that the dash frame center vent pushes up tightly against the HVAC center dash vent. IF all is good then mark the lower dash bracket holes. (Do this FIRST before doing any drilling and mounting)

 

2)The dash will need to be leveled. It was about 1/2 inch low on the PS. So I had to re-drill the holes to raise the dash. If I were to do this again. Most of the upper brackets I welded in place ended up being support more than anything. They are needed, but they assist in creating a solid upper brace, and the length would not need to be longer than 1". The upper dash mounting brackets were almost next to the windshield.

 

I noticed this when I was installing the dash frame on mine that it was 3/4 of an inch out from the HVAC center vent. this in turn will hit the shift lever when everything is installed. I have to go back and revisit this. I spent 30 minutes trying to locate the obstruction, but I ran out of time and needed to get it together. It almost felt like a part of the dash frame was hitting something.

 

{ 09/15/09 The orignal wiring for the MJ head light switch is an exact match to the XJ minus one additional pin. The pin does not effect the MJ plug. The extra XJ ping was probably work for auto light shut off or related feature

 

 

[Jonny878]

[Jonny878]

I spent a total of $42 dollars on this project. And it was an easy one.

 

Orielly cone reusable air filter $25

 

Home Depot 3" rubber 45 degree plumbing elbow $13

 

Plastic 3" ID pipe $4.00 ( I used aluminum pipe that I had laying around with and O.D. of 4")

 

It kinda looks like an LS1 intake ;) There is a nice bend in the engine bay compartment for the filter. I also glued a piece of foam just below the filter on the engine compartment. This will keep the filter from vibrating and moving.

 

Don't forget to plug the two vacuum hoses. I used a bolt for each line, that match the ID, for a good snug seal.

 

[Jonny878]

[Sir Sam]

So when are you going to finish the interior swap?

[Jonny878]

So when are you going to finish the interior swap?

 

 

Hopefully soon. This project has been gone longer than I anticipated, I am a little strapped for time. I finished applying fiberglass to the back of the headliner last night. The liner was made of a pressed paper/fiber material that was collapsing and impossible to pull the old headliner material off of it without destroying the headliner. I will post a pic later.

[BBCchris]

:popcorn:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You know what.... I'm thinking a faux woodgrain HVAC cover would really add to the interior ambiance.

[Jonny878]

Stock headliner after fiberglass and resin applied. After it cures I will sand down any rough spots. To do this it would cost approximately $27. I used two resin cans which were about a quart each. Each resin can costs $11.50 at Wal-Mart. Fiber mat about a square yard is $5.

 

[Jonny878]

:popcorn:

 

You know what.... I'm thinking a faux woodgrain HVAC cover would really add to the interior ambiance.

 

 

Anything would go at this point. I am thinking red velvet with shag!

[1999MJ]

 

 

 

That's not a bad idea ya got there. I'm missing the intake tube on my 88 2.5 . Looks like i'll be going to home deopt tomorrow :cheers:

[Jonny878]

Interior close to finished, just need to wire guages, HVAC and Stereo, install kick panels and seats. I will hopefully get the seats in this weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jonny878]

The leather power seats are in, but they are to tall. I think if I have to do this over, I am going to cut the transfer case hump out on the DS and reweld it flatter to acomadate the 20" rails of the new seats.