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changing odometer


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In addition to whats already been stated here's a lil mo clarification, hopefully

 

 

Step 2: Remove the two small screws holding the trip meter in place, and gently slide the meter out, and place aside.

 

Step 3: What you have now is an odometer attached to the speedometer gauge face and needle. You’ll see a cylinder of numbers, which is of course, your odometer. Depending on how you’re holding it, you will see a small, thinner black wheel up next to the 100K column. This piece should rotate freely. Right next to this part, you will see a very small “C” clamp. This clamp needs to be removed, and I found it to be rather tricky. The easiest way I found to remove this, was to take a flat headed screwdriver and press it against the “C” clamp openings. Use caution while doing this, because when my “C” clamp popped off, it flew away pretty far.

 

Step 4: Slide the rotating black plastic piece away from the number columns in the odometer. Use a toothpick, or like device, to try and create a small gap between which number column you want to change. The numbers should rotate backwards and forwards freely. Push it back together when you have your desired number showing through the speedometer face. Repeat this step until you’ve changed all desired numbers.

 

Step 5: Make sure the numbers are lined up on the speedometer face.

 

Step 6: Reinstall the “C” clamp. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold onto it, and press the clamp in place.

This is from an article in NAXJ.

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NEVERMIND! just read further on the NAXJA site and he said it's already wired. KEWL!

 

Yes, this is true. However, I ASSume by your user name you have a 2.5L engine in your rig? If the donor vehicle of new cluster also had a 2.5L engine, you will be fine and the tach RPM readings should be correct. However, if the donor had a 4.0L, you'll probably have to calibrate the tach to read the correct RPMs. There is an adjustable potentiometer in the tach used to calibrate it.

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Let me tell you how it unfolded on my 92. First off, the trip reset was broken (little pieces inside). I wanted it functional so I got a whole cluster from the boneyard ($10), swapped out the speedometer assembly (very easy to do) to verify everything worked well. Since my MJ is very low actual miles, and the salvage unit had rather high miles, I ended up sending it off, with proof of actual vehicle miles (copy of title) to a really great outfit. They reset the odometer to the number I requested, and it cost me $57 including the shipping. They got it in two days, adjusted it same day, and I had it back on day 5. The outfit is: APT Instruments Intl Inc, 9632 Humboldt Ave S, Bloomington MN 55431

952-881-7095, and they were a pleasure to work with. Tom

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NEVERMIND! just read further on the NAXJA site and he said it's already wired. KEWL!

 

Yes, this is true. However, I ASSume by your user name you have a 2.5L engine in your rig? If the donor vehicle of new cluster also had a 2.5L engine, you will be fine and the tach RPM readings should be correct. However, if the donor had a 4.0L, you'll probably have to calibrate the tach to read the correct RPMs. There is an adjustable potentiometer in the tach used to calibrate it.

Thou be correct, oh great discerner of email handles! Soooooo, thanks for the heads up! :thumbsup:

And, I wondered; since I have to take the new old odometer out to calibrate it, what about taking my current one out and putting it in the new old one? Tada! Correct mileage!

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Missouri requires no proof when it comes to changing out an odometer that you fixed it to reflect the right mileage. If it does not, and you sell it, you have to report the difference, cuz if they can prove you wrong you are in big trouble. Probably taking a picture of both before changing would be a good safeguard.

BTW, in missouri if the car is more than ten years old it is exempt from needing an odometer reporting. Found this out by emailing the guy in the govmt in Kansas City that is in charge of such things.

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