new engine- first startup

[mjtjnj]

OK, if anyone's been following along, my 87 MJ stopped running one day for no reason. I changed the CPS, just for kicks, and it didn't start (was getting spark and fuel). I decided, at 190K on the weak 2.5 to get a core rebuilt and install it, with a 2001 AX-5.

 

ANYWAYS, I put ALL new sensors in, got it bolted up, dropped in the distributor at TDC (unknown if at compression or exhaust stroke), and primed her up. She didn't start, and I didn't have a helper to check for fuel and exhaust (though I could smell fuel at the TBI). If there's spark, we're flipping the distributor 180 degrees.

 

My fear is that after doing that it STILL won't start, and I don't want to cold crank a new motor to any great extent. Where would be the place to start doing detective work if that's the case?

 

THANKS!!!

 

Tom

[FxRacing282]

hit it with a timing light 8 degrees should be good. check under the hood it should say

[mjtjnj]

It actually says "timing not adjustable." Where'd you get 8 degrees from??

[FxRacing282]

well the average motor runs from 5-12 degrees of timing. so 8 is like a guarantee timing. but, now and then i forget about CPS so what I'm saying has no meaning at all and is just waisting space on some server.

[mjtjnj]

LOL. I have an update.

 

Cranked, no start; poured gas down the TBI, no start; good spark. Rotated the distributor 180*, poured gas in the TBI, starts and runs for 15-16 mins at 2500rpm. STOPS. Won't start again, needs jump. Still won't start. Starts with fuel in TBI, runs for 5 mins, STOPS.

 

We noticed the fuel pump wasn't humming, had power at the harness. Cleaned the contacts -- it HUMS ! And starts. Seems the motor was running on a siphon effect - for awhile! So it runs. Didn't drive it, still have to fab the clutch hydraulics. But progress.

 

:brows:

[JeepcoMJ]

future reference;

 

when building and installing a new motor, pre-lube it with oil first.

 

basically, put the oil in, remove the distributor, take a drill with a cut-off flat head screwdriver in it, and spin the pump through the dizzy hole IN THE DIRECTION OF DISTRIBUTOR ROTATION (which IIRC is clockwise). this prelubes the oil journals, lifters, etc. so you will not have to worry about binding during a cold, fresh start.

[mjtjnj]

That's what I usually do. I have a tool for doing it on GM's which didn't fit. The guy helping me out is a Ford certified mechanic, and he said we could cold crank it first for pre-lube without doing damage or causing binding. So I took his word for it, he knows his stuff. It didn't bind, the fuel pump harness was acting flaky.

 

thanks

 

future reference;

 

when building and installing a new motor, pre-lube it with oil first.

 

basically, put the oil in, remove the distributor, take a drill with a cut-off flat head screwdriver in it, and spin the pump through the dizzy hole IN THE DIRECTION OF DISTRIBUTOR ROTATION (which IIRC is clockwise). this prelubes the oil journals, lifters, etc. so you will not have to worry about binding during a cold, fresh start.