A/C Compressor

[WahooSteeler]

Ok, got the 134 adaptors put on, put a new expansion valve on, had the lines blown out, and finally went to charge the system but it's not taking refrigerant as it immediately shoots up to 100psi.

 

Sooooooo, how do you check if a compressor is good or bad, or is this basically the answer? Assuming it IS bad, what can be used for a replacement in terms of year and model of Jeep or other vehicle, such as SW2's 93 XJ part out bee-yahtch? :brows:

 

Thanks!

[brigarpeon]

Once the system has been taken apart it loses its vaccum. Things can go wrong on the low pressure side that can be repaired and refrigerant added with little to no difficulty. The system may have a small pin hole or leak that does not allow for proper cooling that can be remedied by by adding more refrigerant but normally doesn't lose the vaccum.

 

When you break the system down on the high and low pressure systems you need a vaccum pump to pull the system back to it's specfic gravity which is measured through inches of mercury (HG). You have 2 options get a vaccum pump and pull the HG in the driveway or take it to a service center to get it done. I know Jiffy Lube has AC tools and specialists so something like that local should suffice. I know the last time I was in it took around 1/2 to Test and vaccumize the system, their refrigerant of course. The cost was around $50 total.

 

BTW; I chose PPG Burnished Gold for the 87, with gray flares. Scored a good deal from a close out at the FLAPS. It's DBA 2 STAGE normally $200 a gallon. Got the Primer, Basecoat and Clear for $50 a gallon each. I already have the catalyst, Thinner, Kondar and additives. OH YEAH BABY!

[aemsee]

You did open up the valves on the compressor, right? They are the 1/4 inch square drives under the tin caps. This is easy to overlook.

You really should/ need to have the system evacuated and vacuumed properly. The vacuum will cause any moisture in the system to boil and be pulled out. If not, the water will combine with the HFC's under pressure and form hydrofluoric acid in the system. You also need to add the right amount of PAG oil. The mineral oil of R12 systems will not mix with the 134a and that is how the oil moves throughout the system.

[WahooSteeler]

AMC, I did have the system evacuated and vacuumed......I think. After the new parts went on I had a shop owner I know make sure it was evacuated and that the lines were clear. He said it was ready for refridgerant. As far as the valves, no I did not open them up. I thought they were set in the correct position already and that they only needed to be open or closed for other service needs, not just to recharge, but I'm definitely amateur at this. So do I open both the high and low side or just the low side to pull the new 134 in? And when that is done should both valves be closed, open, or "half-way"? I remember looking at a tech piece on A/C talking about the valves and I thought I glanced over something that said they should be in the "half-way" position for normal operation. But again, learning as I go on this.

 

As for PAG oil, this recharge system already has it pre-mixed and I was told I did not need any additional?

 

Waiting for your instructions...............

 

 

**Brigarpeon......should be a nice and different color on the 87 for sure! What are you going to do about the maroon interior? Any other updates?

[brigarpeon]

**Brigarpeon......should be a nice and different color on the 87 for sure! What are you going to do about the maroon interior? Any other updates?

 

First about the valves, if you didn't move them then they are in the correct position but half way is correct. Second, the refrigerant has to be put in on the low pressure side.

 

Burnished Gold is the same as the mid 90's Chevy Trucks, a sorta beige or champagne gold color, it should match up nicely w/ the maroon interior. I did find a 4 door, 2001 cherokee, Black on Burgandy down at the Salvage yard that has nice seats and door panels and ordered a headliner for it from ebay.

 

I put VW lights in the rear cab trim since I had them already. Took off the cap and removed the bed liner. Fixed the drivers side floor pan where the little bit of rust was. Knocked out a couple of the dingy dents and filled them with expoxy primer only, no bondo. Tells ya how bad they were. Removed the exhaust and started stripping, down at the local bar, I mean stripping down the engine for removal. Not too much excitement, I got the thing running prety smooth, the last piece of the puzzle was the Map sensor and control. I'm just gonna keep that block and rebuild it, w/ 230,000 ya never know. Old "Wing and a Prayer" has a motor and tranny w/ under 60,000 so it would be a better choice. Also working w/ BMJ to see about a 2500 front clip. Did I tell ya I ran over the mint fender I bought for the drivers side? :headpop:

 

I been focusing on getting another bug ready for DD. The ol orange ladybug is getting on her last legs and significant rust developing.