702_MJ

Changed it with the pump.....I'm gonna change it again just cuz maybe what's left is sitting in it. I'm thinking of buying a new tank and running a fuel system cleaner through it after and see where I am when the dust clears...

Ok I have an 86' with a 4.0L. About a month ago it left me stranded in town. Ran fine there, went into the bank, came back out and fired her up and she had really rough idle, wouldnt rev and would slowly die. Eventually after a while she just cranked and I couldnt hear the fuel pump.Had no pressure at the rail, so I replaced the pump....she ran fine after. Now just the other day she did it again, but ended up acting normal after like 30 seconds, was thinking maybe water in the fuel because I noticed I had a hole in the tank about an hour prior, and I live in the wettest part of Hawaii so I wouldnt put it passed water getting in. So I dropped the tank today, couldnt see any water. But I do need a new tank.... Any thoughts on what could cause this little random stumbling idle? What else to check?

its a 4.0L now. I ended up getting a pump for the 2.5L, specs said its rated at 65psi so the reg on the rail should bring it down to what the 4.0L needs. Funny thing is the jeep has ran fine the whole time with the original 2.5L pump. If I remember correctly when I tested the pressure at the rail years ago it was in the high 30s. So it should be fine I guess. Thanks anyway.

I got an 86 MJ with a 4.0L, the fuel pump just crapped out and I'm assuming its the original by the looks of it and since my dad said he never changed it. Jeep has been running fine for years. BUT I was thinking if it would be a better idea to swap in a pump for a 91-92 4.0 instead of getting another 4cyl? I bought a pump today and tried to get it to match the original but no luck in fitment in the sending unit. But I also have this Bosch pump from another jeep sending unit...I'm assuming cherokee. But don't know the year, Part # 9580810019 on the side of the pump. I can get that one to work by just swapping the top holder from the other sending unit. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks

Ok problem not solved. here's a picture of what I'm having a problem with. Sorry if its really zoomed in. So I'm having problems between the pink and yellow/blk wire parallel to each other on the tower thing under the dash with 3 relays on it. Anyone know what this is? And why isnt it on wiring diagrams? They are some how connected between switched stereo power, "Dome" fuse, and "Turn" fuse...and wipers I guess.

Like I said I guess I've been staring at it for too long. I guess it's a setup where both sides provide power, if on fails and becomes a ground the relay trips I guess. Weird but oh well. If I'm wrong though feel free to chime in.

Trying to put in my new stereo today and I knew I had some electrical gremlin in there, cuz with my old deck I can turn it on with the key off and out and when I hit the wipers on it would shut off momentarily and come back on a few seconds later. Not suppose to happen. So I figured its time to put in the new deck and try track down this electrical gremlin. Needless to say the Dash is mostly apart, and Ive tracked it down and fixed that problem BUT now theres another problem between the "Turn" fuse and "Dome" fuse. Key on power is coming from the yellow and black wire on the top relay on that 3 relay bar behind the very bottom dash panel and goin to the pink wire across the relay and going to the side of the "Dome" fuse that is suppose to receive the power, if that makes sense. Unhook the "turn" fuse with the key on and those yellow and black wires lose power, thats as far as I got right now. So now I guess I gotta find out how the wire is getting power. Is the wire suppose to have power when the key is on? Cuz the pink wire has power when the key is on too so it makes no sense. Outside help would be greatly appreciated, you know how it goes been on a problem so long you can't think solutions out right. Thanks

Yeah Hawaii is the wrong place to restore a car. But as a friend of mine once said "There's two ways to become resourceful, have no money and live on an island in the middle of no where"

That is very true....its once you start ordering big stuff it gets costly. Sometimes shipping is more than the parts you order

The driver side one doesnt leak at all...just the bottom channel is rusty and flaking away. The passenger side the front is cocked open even when it is closed...and that bottom channel is rusty and flaking as well. Ill try take out the pair of fixed ones I got to see how difficult it is... So how much would you want for the set and weather stripping if you wanna sell that too? The biggest problem is shipping them to Hawaii....and figuring out how to pay you haha

1986 Jeep Comanche Custom LWB Current pics...note with a cell phone J truck aint mine, but it was hella cool when it rolled into my drive way! Came with: 4cyl, manual, t-case unkown(assume 231), axles unknown, bench seat, maroon/red interior, maroon/redish paint, solid rear glass, old school truck mirrors, black 10 slot grill Has now: 97' 4.0, AW4, NP231, Dana 30/35 4.10s, beige 4 door buckets(soon to get replaced), 92' gray dash and gauges, 92' gray mini console, painted some kind of purple Build date: Has been painted over... Status: My DD, weekend camper/wheeler, and a project... History: Dad bought it new off the lot....in Hawaii I believe...handed down to me when I got my license....has been back and fourth from Hawaii to the mainland several times. Current owner: Me/My Dad

Doesnt help I live in Hawaii haha. I guess I'm gonna have too...

Pretty much wondering what the title says. I got the door vent windows in my 86' that open, the passenger side leaks and the channel the glass is in is starting to rust badly (typical hawaii cancer). Could a new set could be bought? As much as I enjoy those windows....worst case scenario I have a few sets of fixed vents I can swap in.

I didnt think so, thanks.

Would a yoke from a dana 30 interchange with a dana 35? Just curious. This is by no means for me, a friend of a friend needs a yoke for his dana 35 on a jeep of his and I get called....only axle I have access to right now is a disco 30. I won't be able to get ahold of the spare 35 I have till next week cuz my friend is off island.

Those all look good to me. But what about prep? When I was talking to my friend he said the paint needs to just be clean. In my mind I'm thinking, "I don't want this thing to peel, I want it there FOREVER once its on" So I don't care if I have to tape off the body line and take a DA sander with 80grit just to scuff it up and clean out those minor rust spots. Anyone ever did that scuff then apply bedliner or just clean real good and spray?

Comanchekid45's and neohic's trucks is pretty much how I want it done...from the same body line down. I herculined the interior, didnt come out bad didnt come out how I wanted it either, and it was all in the prep....and I shoulda waited more than 24hrs to hop in. But I'm gonna shop around and go look at the permatech product. Because if its glossy or anything I don't want it, matte black rough finish is what I want. I would Rhino it....BUT my dad had the bed Rhino'd years ago....and on the inside of the bed rails its peeling. Should go get it re done but I have no idea where the tag they put in the bed went...fell off years ago but I don't know where I put it.

So has anyone done this? I'm contemplating the idea cuz I'm sick of rock chips on my rockers, cab corners, lower bed and such. Living in Hawaii with the weather and volcano exposed metal=rust and my truck use to only have minor surface on like bumper brackets but I see some bubbles from the typical places rocks kick up and this last camping trip I put a small dent on the very bottom of the bed. So I kinda wanna protect from further damage as well. My friends dad does permatech so I'm gonna price him out and see the product. Gonna price out linex also but I'm weary about the guy since my last run in with him he seems more interested in profit then his knowledge of stuff. Let me know what you think.

Ok so here's the story, changed the thermostat back to stock because I just did a motor swap and the new motor didnt have a thermostat only one I had was a 160*. Checked the plugs and changed the oil. Then the alternator wasnt charging, and for some reason now it is, frickn weird. But now theres a rough idle...and yesterday when I was trying to test the alternator it didnt have this rough idle. So double checked the plugs again, checked the 02 sensor, was kinda black but figure thats from the 160* tstat running the motor rich. don't get any check engine lights or anything, so I figure its a vacuum leak, but all the vacuum lines I check are fine. What am I missing? Any suggestions? Thanks This is a 97' 4.0L btw.

Yeah ,it "ticks" thats a better sound descritption. But I was listening to it when I was driving and its loud on start up but after driving at highway speeds it tones down, but you can still hear it. So maybe a lifter has some gunk in it an is getting stuck or maybe something mentioned earlier in the thread. But it sounds like its ticking right infront of me, like the headpipe donut gasket is bad or theres a crack, but the header shouldnt crack its a banks header they had "won't crack" on the box!!

Nope, when you give it a few rpms the sound doesnt go away. It kinda gets drowned out by exhaust noise I think. LOL, block is dirty so I don't think I'll be able to find that letter. Ill add the atf and change the oil. And if its still there I'll use the hose idea. Its probly just an exhaust leak, and I'm probly just being paranoid.

oh gotcha thanks

yeah i keep trying to tighten up the header to headpipe bolts but no luck. It needs a tune up too, so maybe ill start with that and go from there. Explain this hose trick please, never heard of it?

That was my first thought was exhaust leak at the rear cylinder, but couldnt really see any signs of the sorounding area being covered in black exhaust. Ill do the plug pull today. Thanks

so pull the wires while its running? I think my boss has a compression tester i can borrow. and what if it burns the seat? can't machine the seat again?