last254

Thanks for your help Cruiser! I checked the starter relay and found a burnt out wire, replaced and good to go

Okay so my problem started when I left my truck sitting for quite some time and when I tried to start it I found my battery was beyond gone, and the cables had corroded extensively. So I bought a new battery and cleaned up the cables quickly and started right up. A week later I try to start it and I got nothing, no crank, no fuel pump sound, and even more interesting no headlights (and yes new battery is good). I know these headlights are separate so I am thinking either multiple fusible links or starter relay? Also I have done Cruiser's ground refreshing tips in the past and also double checked the battery ground and dipstick ground this week. So what do you guys think? start with fusible links and starter relay in the morning? Also how do I test fusible links? backprobe with multimeter and test resistance? How can I test the starter relay as well? I am referring to the diagram here in this thread for the starter relay btw http://comancheclub.com/topic/49932-battery-short-to-ground-now-truck-won't-start/?hl=starter+relay&do=findComment&comment=508394 Thanks for any help you can provide 87 4.0L 4x4

I just read that the clutch for the nv3500 typically uses dot 3 brake fluid but i've always used hydraulic clutch fluid, possible issue here?

Hey guys, so I drive a 87 comanche 4x4 4.0L. It originally ran the peugot transmission and I never had any issues with the clutch in that, I was just eager to swap it and now have a NV3500 transmission in place. The master cylinder I am using is as far as I can tell meant for the comanche, http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-master-cylinder/duralast-clutch-master-cylinder/jeep/comanche-4wd/1987/6-cylinders-m-4-0l-fi/69675_0_0/ The slave cylinder I use I believe is for a 2000 jeep cherokee 4.0L 4wd. I use a braided hose to connect the two. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/jeep/cherokee-4wd/2000/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/577903_0_0/ Finally to my issue! I have swapped out 4 slave cylinders and 2 master cylinders ever since I did the swap. Is there something wrong with my setup or does autozone just provide crap parts? Please help asap I need a new master cylinder cap and I know they're gonna make me by the whole master not just a cap. **Note** Just so you know if i'm doing anything wrong. I install my slave typically with the retaining straps still on and then I let the pressure break those straps on their own, maybe this is the wrong way to install? Also there is no bleeder valve on the slave and I've read a lot, seems like everyone just pumps the pedal to eternity and I did the same to bleed the system, seems to work for a little while atleast

I live in az but am willing to drive one state away so if youre in the southwest and you have a bench seat I can have reupholstered then let me know

http://postimg.org/image/fw2b60sg1/

I currently have the mirrors that bolt in to the side of the door and I really like them. My truck actually came with 97+ mirrors and I took them off. However the holes that mount the mirror to the door are exposed. Is there a part to cover that area or should I fab something up?

I'm so glad to see that this build isnt dead. Could you show off your interior for me with a lot of pics? Ive seen them all but this is my favorite buold on cc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290825902602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 i plan on ordering this radiator and am wondering if anyone has any previous experience or knowledge to let me know if this will work; if it does work are there any modifications necessary?

haha yeah i never put punctuation. well its a 87 4.0 and if someone could say how to put pictures i could post some

my radiator has a hole so i need a new one i know its aftermarket because it has a filler neck it has a hose going to lower passenger side and a hose going to upper driver side i assumed i would get one to fit a 91+ cherokee right but i saw one to fit that and it had a hose on lower driver and upper passenger what do i need to look for?

I'm pretty sure .it wasnt stopping the butterfly valve, it would just rub up on the throttle body... so i tightened it until i saw the faintest movement then stopped

i turned the torx air head screw all the way clockwise and the idle is quieter but not really a change in rpm's which are still good at steady 1000. so much quieter that i can really hear my failed catalytic converter...btw i've noticed that after i drive around my idle as stoplights is still 1500 rpm now haven't driven since i turned the torx air head screw though

Torx air bleed screw on the driver's side of the TB. this is exposed there is no plug like you suggested

mine is exposed and it seems like it could have been tampered with do you have a right up for that as well?

ya the screw was way in. the butterfly valve linkage didn't even touch the screw when it was closed, it was rubbing up on the throttle body. haha

ya the screw was way in the butterfly valve linkage didn't even touch it it was rubbing up on the throttle body

new cps in and tps is adjusted as well as butterfly stop screw and idle is at 1000 rpm right now I'm very happy thanks for all the help guys

ok so had to check the no start issue of course before doing tps so i checked the cps and i don't know how to explain what happened but basically the cps looks good but the female connector and all the wires coming out of it are just gone, just gone! just some bizarre thing i guess i don't if it got yanked out somehow or what happened but ill buy a cps tomorrow so it can be replaced.

that sounds like a great idea ill do it tomorrow before some last minute christmas shopping

tps can't go above .55volts and i need .83 even the new tps can't get above .55 its like i need to turn it counterclockwise more but it won't go anymore. the mj stalled today tho and i couldn't get her to start again i have to get a ride to work now but I'm gonna test the cps tomorrow....also the other day i tightened all the manifold bolts but i guess i missed one and i saw it on the ground when i pulled away so i found where it was missing and got it in however the idle is ok at start up and i noticed that if i pull on the throttle cable at all and return it to its position then the idle is 1600 or more i guess you could say I'm frustrated right now..

ok so grounds are good ohms value now and i adjusted the tps the idle was high so i proceeded to turn it clockwise then back it off to the correct reading which was done but then i pulled a bonehead move and tightened it to tight and it cracked the tps but not badly just at the mounting point either way i couldn't get a output voltage so i went and got a new tps still no output voltage but still getting reference voltage is it possible that i messed up the connector by backprobing it because i did backprobe probably 4 different times and i still can't get an output voltage but still a solid 10 for reference voltage

yes i did the dipstick ground stud and i recrimped the wires going there as well as cleaning the area off like your write up says but there is no change in ohms when wiggling

did the harness ground upgrade and am now at a steady 1.8ohms is this ok or should i replace the tps?

awesome thanks ill do it tomorrow