BARILLMS

I like these things, I think I'm gonna use them. They have roller bearings, they are very smooth.

Well, I'm shortening my long bed's wheelbase, and I'm moving the axle forward and chopping the end of the frame. No bed. The less hangover the better, but with leaf springs... you're gonna have some no matter what. My only concern was having my shackles hanging down in the back?? This takes away from your departure angle, and also they will be getting crushed on rocks constantly and risk breakage. I even though about putting the rear shackles in the front of the rear leaf.... but I don't think that would work well. I FOUND A SOLUTION!! Ha! Perfecto! These leaf spring sliders are perfect, plus they can be used in the front of the rear leaf Spring!! Completely gaining huge departure benefits!! Check them out! Link: http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/a ... ductID=985

I guess you guys don't realize what I'm doing here... Don't go gettin your panties in a bunch now. I'm shortening my wheelbase!! I have a long bed, using XJ leafs will move my axle forward a few inches!!. I'm well aware of the length differences in the MJ and XJ springs, I build Jeeps! Remounting the rear spring hangers isn't hard to do at all. Anyway... just to clarify this. THE LEAFS ARE 2.5" wide.

Spring over with stock MJ rear leafs will net you about 5" of lift, right? What would a spring over using stock XJ leafs do??

XJ rears are 52" MJ rear are 57" eye to eye. Full size waggys are also 57" is this correct?

Anyone know what the wheelbase of the following are? MJ short bed wheelbase? MJ long bed wheelbase? XJ wheelbase?

How long is a stock MJ leaf eye to eye? Anyone know how long these other leafs are? XJ rear leaf? YJ rear leaf? Full size waggy rear leaf? How wide are MJ and XJ leafs?? 2.5" ?? Is that right? thanks

I just bought an '88 Manche and it has the RE LCA drop brackets on it.. so I guess they work. They're for sale if you're interested... I'm doing long arms this winter and won't be needing them.

I hear that! I was maxing out my TREs w/ 4.5" lift at max droop passenger side. I bent a stock tie rod while barely moving on a tiny stump I didn't see and almost couldn't drive home. If you don't replace the entire steering with a ZJ V8 set up, at least replace the stock tie rod with a heavy duty "Big Daddy" rod or another similar upgrade. It's only $80 for one.

32s w/ 6"... huh? We're talking about good steering options for the buck. It doesn't matter it you have 235s, when your stock tie rod hits a rock or stump and gets a tweak in it, it's just a matter of time before it folds, bends or completely snaps. Have you looked at a stock tie rod lately? They are tiny and need upgraded.

That Spyder kit uses the stock drag link?? If you're going to do that, you might as well go get a V8 ZJ set up from the junk yard for dirt cheap and gusset it at home just like they do. Not to change subjects but, I keep hearing good things about the JKS trac bars and the Rubicon HD trac bars too. They said on another site the JKS track bar is best out there.

For $330 isn't bad for the basic "Trail Proof" BulletProof steering considering the high misalignment rod ends used are $80 each. Yes the "Rock Proof" is alot more, but I don't need all that... I'm not a rock crawler. That 1 ton on ebay doesn't look to bad either, thanks for the link!! I don't want to have to mess with removing my knuckles to take them to a machine shop and pay for reaming out the holes, not to mention the time to take apart and reinstall, and reaming the pitman too.

I've made up my mind. I liked th idea of heim ends and I like the overall beef of the BULLETPROOF Steering, you can flip it over the knuckle if you like with little mods and seems very stout, not to mention the price is pretty good too. I'd have to say the RockKrawler kit would be my second choice. At 6" of lift, and long arms... huge droop. The heims won't max out and bind like rod ends do. The Krawler kit is made from solid stock, but I like this better: www.bulletproofsteering.com

I'll be running about 6" of lift with RE coils. Trying to decide what to do for the steering. Already have a drip pitman arm. I want to upgrade the steering, possibly thinking about using the ZJ V8 drag link and a heavy duty Big Datty tie rod? Or.. option 2: Upgradingn the entire unit with a bolt on replacement drag link and knuckle to knuckle tie rod. The Currie I'm told is good, but $400 is steep. I like the Rustys' $270 price tag? Is the Rusty's steering any good?

I was just talking about how to do this the other day. Using angle iron that measures 3" to one side and 4" to the other... the important thing here is finding the right material... the angle iron cannot be the normal sharp 90 degree type of bend. There is another type of angle iron from what I've been told, that has more of a rounded 90 degree bend that will conform better to the rounded corner of the bottom of the unibody rail.

I think I'm going to do what he's done above, that's what I planned on originally. I don't want a truggy. 108 inches looks pretty sweet. Move the springs forward, and use XJ leafs sprung over with revolver shackles or a buggy leaf. Relocate the gas tank... this is MUCH less work than building a tube back.

It say's on the site "picture shown isn't the exact model" this pic you've attached is just an example similar... it's not the same cage, they just are too lazy to take pics of each indicidual cage to post on their site.

What they call a 10 point isn't floor mounting points, I thought the same thing... also, even for the Cherokee it doesn't extend back to the rear door, not full length like some do. It's more of a cab only cage that would work for the MJ... maybe shortened up a bit. But for $250 who cares... slap it in there and go with it... a few mods and tweaks and your golden.

The S&W cages, you can choose from Chromoly, DOM, or the mild steel. The mild steel cages for a Cherokee are $249.95 (+$100 shipping to eastern Ohio) and can be modded to work for the MJ cab, but will limit your space you have behind your seat.. so if you'll tall I'd maybe go exo. I'm planning to do an S&W in cab 10 point cage, and then adding some exo onto it and tieing everything into the unibody rails with supports below the floor. You really can't beat that price... and honestly, these guys who swear by DOM and all that jazz, you can run a perfectly good cage made from regular steel if it's tied in properly. I really think this is a good buy, and know that S&W makes good stuff.

How about instead of moving the leafs foward... just chopping the frame behind the cab, and taking out a 6" section and reattaching everything having it professionall stick welded and reinforced. Keeping the front leaf mounts where they are, and using stock XJ leafs to help with the departure angle... and re doing the rear leaf mounts. Relocating the gas tank or using an XJ tank or fuel cell? I image this would shorten it up about 8 inches.

We're not bragging here.

Yea, good stuff. That would be a heavenly dream if I could pull somehting like that off... but hey, I'm in no hurry! Good work. I think I might just go that route. What size/type of tubing did you use? Damn... I would have used XJ Leafs to get a better departure angle. Anyhoo, awesome rig!

I don't know what to do? I'll post again when I get to that point.

Here is scoop, I have an '88 MJ I just bought. It has a transplanted 4.0 in it.. the radiator need replaced. I don't know what year to tell the parts store. It's an open system, w/ rad. cap on the drivers side. The upper hose is on the passenger side top corner, the lower hose is on the drivers side about 2/3 way down. There is one tranny line connector on the drivers side, just below the rad cap stem. It sits on two pegs that slip into holes in the front cross member. Anyknow know what year this would be from? '89 - different '92 - different '94 - different All different radiators used.... I'm not sure if my 4.0 is a High Output of not? How do I tell?

Sorry, too late for that guys!