E4Marty

What line did you fix? It's an electronic device behind the panel so I don't understand how a vacuum could be it.

Well the most important issue I'm having is that the switch for the vents only works in the off and only runs on defrost regardless of postion. Is the selector the switch is connected too the culprit? My driver side front speaker is somehow causing the sound to cut out from bass or volume. The odd part is, it's only when the door is shut that it'll cut out, with it open the sound works fine. I've only got the +\- wires hooked up to the aftermarket speakers, the black wire on the connector isn't hooked to anything.

I've been searching for a Cherokee, and all that is really in my area carry the automatic transmission. I would really prefer the manual, but it ain't the end of the world to settle for an auto. My question is though just how reliable and lasting they are against the AX15.

I appreciate all the info here. I am still seeking a jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 5spd. The one I was interested in, and the reason behind this thread, drove by me as I went to see it having been sold a little earlier.

Figured a question like this belonged here since it pertains to the Cherokee. It's a 1993 with the AX15 tranny and the 4.0 with 254k. Basically I'm asking opinions of y'all more experienced with jeeps. It's been treated decent, is it worth $600 to buy it? I've been hunting for an SUV for a while now. The thought of having to rebuild the engine doesn't bother me much.

the tune up wasnt even 1000 miles ago, plugs looked just fine

I'm terrible at explaining things so i uploaded a video to youtube. the miss is hard to detect with the video, until i move to the exhaust pipe. Any insight would be appreciated. I explained the jeep's condition in the video description.

I have a fair amout of play in the steering left and right. I'd say from the 11o clock over to the 1o clock position, maybe even more, before the pitman arm begins to move. The adjusting nut can't be adjusted anymore. Is this just normal play for an older part or should I replace it? This and my track bar issue are the two most influential on my sloppy steering.

Maybe I bought a bad track bar, since the play is the track bar shifting around the joint itself. The other mount did not appear wallowed out at all.

The truck's side to side play hasn't gotten any better. Even with the new track bar, there is movement between the frame mount and the actual track bar. Is there supposed to be that play in the pivot?

I've sprayed it with cleaner and let marvel mystery oil soak on it. But no i have not taken it off and cleaned it out. I pulled the idle electrical connector while it was idling and it didn't change at all until I reconnected it, and it died from it

Coming to a stop, or coasting into a parking spot the RPMs struggle to stay above 500 and more often than not it just dies on me. The ignition system has been replaced (plugs, ect) so has the fuel filter. I'm thinking idle control??

Its those simple ones I'm interested in. Does that one have the bumper built around the receiver, or just a proper sized square. Do y'all use the factory mounting brackets or fabricate a set?

Title says it all, my Comache's front bumper looks like it got yanked and bent outward. The rear is rotting away. So anyone made their own or have ideas/designs? Allowing for a hitch and maybe hooks for the front.

that's an interesting design, i was expecting something involving locking hubs like Ford and GM. are y'all talking about bypassing that odd locking device? what actuates the vacuum? What kind of mpg change comes from the added drag of the axles and driveshaft rotating?

My 4x4 system works for the most part, but is does whine when engaged, and the 4x4 dash indicator take a while to show correctly. How do these old Jeep 4x4 systems work up front so i can look into making function better?

Well i got it fixed. Boneheaded move on my part, plugged off the hose that normally would attach to the aircleaner box. So realizing my dumb move and not wanting to have an open line I rigged it to attach to the cold air intake. Should have tracked the line instead of immediately plugging it.

Just today this started occurring on my 86' 2.5l. There's alot I pressure out the oil fill cap, makes a high pitched whistle and lots of blow out when I uncap it. Oil coats the valve cover and side of throttle body after driving. I don't notice a loss in power, or any oil burning out tail pipe. The truck can hardly stay running at idle.

Fixing the leaks is a great idea. The Comanche doesn't leak anymore once I fixed the the pinion seal, but it left a few pints of lube on driveway. Kitty litter seems to be a popular one. My F150 has left numerous stains of tranny fluid and motor oil. Bad seal I think and valve cover gasket.

I think that may have fixed it. The ground behind the tail-light wasn't hooked up at all. I put a new connection on and screwed it to the bed with the taillight screws. Found out the hard way, the pump at the gas station doesn't click off on full, so we'll see if it's accurate another time.

Well, i replaced the track bar and the truck is still shifting some when i turn.

That would include the Cherokees as well I assume?

Can this bad track bar, cause the death wobble I'm trying to learn more about?

I have a tach on my truck, but it's an aftermarket. It's probably a hassle but call me what you will I like factory clusters having a tach, not some ugly thing stuck to the steering column. Is there a tach cluster I can swap in for an 86?

Alrighty then, I'll get on fixing that track bar. I noted too that much of the free play in the wheel, doesn't move the steering components at all. I tried tightening the steering gear box some but it bottomed out with no change so I backed it off some. Would a new gear box solve this? The mechanic says the steering components aren't worn out much at all. Also I should note that my left tire rubs when turned completely left