adam518

I need a manual window regulator for the driver's side of my 1991 MJ. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Quick update on my truck... I've been driving the MJ 2-3 time a week and it is a really nice driving, running truck on smooth roads. However, the ride has been a bit harsh at times on rough roads. My XJ which has approximately the same amount of lift, springs, CAD, etc and rides much much smoother. I initially thought it may be the coils springs but after doing a bit of research decided to swap shocks instead. The XJ has RE 3.5" springs with ACOS and the MJ has RE 4.5" springs with a 1" spacer. Both sit between 5.25" & 5.75" and the 4.5" springs on the MJ are a much softer spring rate, so one would assume it would be a softer ride. Initially, I had Bilstein 5100's on the MJ while the XJ has RE Monotubes. I called RE after hearing that Bilstein made their shocks. They confirmed that the XJ/MJ/TJ springs are made by Bilstein, but to their specifications. Evidently , the off-the-shelf Bilsteins are a bit universal in that they are made to fit a myriad of vehicles but the valving on the RE shocks are specific to the weight of a XJ or MJ. Anyway, I swapped in the RE shocks yesterday and the difference in ride is tremendous. I went back over some of the same roads near where I live that really caused the MJ to loose its composure before and it rides silky smooth now.

I dig your light bar idea…think I may follow your lead and do the same thing.

I'll give it a shot.

Educate me

Been a while since I posted. I've been busy with other projects, but have been driving the MJ a couple days a week. I do have a question. Does anyone have a suggestion regarding my drip rail moldings? I have 2 really nice pairs. My truck is all blue & black...no chrome at all. I painted the drip rail moldings black, but it keeps flaking. I scuff w/180, prime, paint and they still flake. Instead of paint, does anyone have experience with any type of shrink or plastic coating that is durable?

I haven't posted to my build in almost a year. Actually, besides driving the truck, I really haven't done that much to it. We started building a new house at the end of Oct 2012 and the wife requested no new vehicle projects until the house is done. With any luck, we'll be in by Thanksgiving. After driving it 5-6 months, it never really settled any in the rear like I hoped. The 4.5" springs gave at least 5.5" of lift, maybe more. It got to where it looked like it had too much rake, so I called Hell Creek. He told me to remove the second shortest leaf. I removed the leaf and now it sits perfect. Not only that, it softened up the ride quite a bit. The ride is very nice and most (not all) of the interior squeaks & creeks went away.

I had to reread your post. At 1st, I missed "blue" and thought you were referring to "Walker". I was just about to pm you to tell you to leave that truck alone! It's a work of beauty! ..but the blue truck I say stick 'em out. It gives a more menacing look.

Thanks for posting the pics, whats the idear of of using the wheel spacers ? I wanted to run a factory appearing wheel. The only problem is that factory Jeep wheels all have a lot of backspacing to keep the tires fully tucked in underneath the fenders. Once you mount a taller and wider tire to a factory wheel, you begin having issues with the tires rubbing things, such as the back inside of the tire rubbing on the lower control arm, etc. Spacers allowed me to use the wheels I liked, but move the wheel out far enough that I don't have clearance issues. Do they give you identical wheel track front & rear ? Mine now has a slightly wider track in the rear. If you look at MJ's closely, you'll notice that the body is narrower up front. So, it creates the illusion that the front is axle is wider than the rear if all four tires have the each same backspacing. That always kind of bugged me so I chose spacers for the rear that were 1/4" thicker than the front. My problem is " by law " the tyres carnt stick out past the gaurds or flears I am fortunate to live in the great state of Tennessee. I have never heard of anyone here being harassed about fender flares completely covering the tires. As a matter of fact, many folks go flareless, but I like the looks of the factory flares. I will run 16x8 rims for big brakes & 32" tyre, the tyres won't be as wide as yours. Have been toying with the idear of adding a inch or so to the factory flears ( post update ). as i can go only so wide with tyres " by law " so no bushwackers + i want to keep the factory look Me too, I was kind of shooting for a look that appeared as though it could have been some type of bad-a factory option. That is why I stayed with factory flares, Jeep wheels & left all of the body panels as they were. Doing so limited me to 33" tires, but I am happy with how it turned out. You have a great looking truck dude Thanks

Sorry it took so long to get pics. Maybe these will help you see how far they stick out. The wheels are 15x8 with 5.5" backspacing. I have 1.25" spacers in the front & 1.5" spacers in the rear.

Initially, I wanted to rattle can mine...was having a tough time deciding between a flat gray or desert tan, but somewhere along the way it took a slightly different turn. If I can talk the wife into another Comanche, I'd like to keep it a little more along those lines. It wouldn't hurt near as much if it were to get a few dings along the way. Right now, I'm still trying to keep the "don't make it too nice" thing going with my Honcho. So far I've focused on fixing mechanical issues and making it more drivable & reliable while fighting the temptation to make it pretty.

They do stick out, but not a whole lot. I'll try to get a pic today that shows just how much. The camber is fine...I suppose it's a funky angle for a picture. The only trouble I had in the front alignment was finding a good compromise between caster and front pinion angle. I believe it ended up with 7 degrees which still drives good and I don't have any vibes out of the driveshaft.

Got my truck back the 1st week of August. In the past three months, I've put it all back together but today I washed it for the very first time. ...sorry if I overindulged in pics, but I just couldn't help it.

Looking for spare tire mounting ideas... I have a matching wheel & tire for use as a spare. Initially, the plan was to make a bracket to install it vertically on the passenger's side of the bed forward of the wheel well. Then the plan changed to vertically along the forward bulkhead of the bed. Now, I'm thinking a 45 degree mount at the front of the bed would look nice. I know it's kind of boy racer, but the whole baja style looks sweet. I have an extra front wheel unit bearing to use as a mount and figured it would be easy enough to fab up something to brace it all to the bed. Any opinions?

Thanks. I need to clean it up and take some nice shots. I've been driving it as much as I can and it's not really photo shoot material at the moment. Here's a pic of my "temporary" emblems. Since new old stock Comanche emblems are rather scarce, Spencer at jeepstickers.com cut these for me. They look nicer than my old emblems and will work ok until I can find a really nice set of the real thing. It's hard to tell from the pic, but he even cut them with a black outline that somewhat replicates the look of the original emblems.

Swing by anytime...I love talkin' Jeeps, especially MJ's & XJ's. I'll buy the beer! :cheers:

Thanks guys...I truly appreciate the compliments. I've been driving the truck as much as I can and really love the way it has turned out. It's nice to have people say they like my truck when they see it, but it means more when true Comanche lovers give me their vote of approval. :group beer: BTW, I am hoping to have a wheelin trip at Coal Creek soon, but am afraid the MJ may sit this one out. The bastages did too a job painting it...way beyond my expectations. I think I'll take the beater Honcho.

My XJ initially had RE disconnects that came with pins that bolt to the inner fender. When you disconnect the link from the axle, you attach it to the pin. It worked great, but the overall design of the JKS disconnects are the best I've used. I always carry a pack of nylon tip ties in my tool box. With the JKS disconnects, I just zip-tie them parallel to the sway bar. When done, I cut 'em off. It's easy...just don't litter on the trail.

I am just finishing up my 1991 MJ and am in need of fender emblems. I would like to find a set of new old stock emblems.

Since the body ended up staying stock, I was hoping to go back with the original emblems. My emblems didn't look so hot on nice fresh paint. I've been hoping to find a NOS set, but have not had any luck at all. Spencer is going to cut a set of fender letters in silver and also in reflective black. I'll end up using one or the other while I continue my hunt for a new set of original emblems.

Drove it to work today...here's a few pics. ...was hoping the sun would shine a little more today. The color has a lot or pearl and metallic and really pops when it is in the sun. Here's a couple of my XJ, now with black wheels. My cousin gave me a set of 5 used 15x8 Mickey Thompson Classic wheels for helping him lift his Rubicon. He didn't take very good care of them and they were so chalky it was going to take a ton of time to polish them. Instead, I let our powder coater soda blast them and powder coat them satin black. They look like new wheels! The center caps are from Summit Racing and the Jeep stickers I found on Ebay.

Never mind...problem solved...all is well. Anyway, I drove the MJ home for the 1st time tonight since before I took it home to be painted in June! I must admit that it rides and drives better than I could have hoped. The 4.56 gearing is a perfect fit for the AX-15 & 33's. I drove the truck bone stock from last September until January when I took it apart. At that time, I almost felt bad for doing so because the little truck was such a dang good driver. Sure it was 2wd, sat a little low, the interior & paint looked like hell and it was anything but sexy, but man what a good driving truck. Now that it is done, it's evident that it drives every bit as good as before. I'll also say that the poor man's Dynomat works great. It is simply amazing how quiet it is in the interior now than before. It is truly quieter with 33" mud tires and 4.56 gears than it was with 3.07's and stock sized street tires. All I can say is that if you have your carpet out for any reason (and plan to put carpeting back in place), it would almost be foolish not to spend a few $$ and line what you can with the stuff. I kid you not, for less than the cost of two tanks of gas, my truck is as quiet as the wife's BMW.

once again...I am an idiot. My light issue was driving me crazy, so I went outside to ponder it over a couple of beers. After poking and proding about for a while, I reached down and squeezed the connection where the front header bar light harness plugs into the main harness. Low and behold, a heavenly chorus appeared and began to sing Hallelujah while the glory of my front lights appeared before me. It turns out that it was simply a loose connection! Hopefully, my frustration will help someone else.

I am having a wiring issue, but didn't want to double post. Any wiring gurus...please see this post: http://comancheclub....lp-appreciated/

I finally got my MJ on the road tonight. I tested all of the lights earlier and they worked fine. As a matter of fact, I have tested them at least a dozen times over the last few weeks and they all worked as they should. I drove home in the daylight, but when I got home and was showing off my handywork to the wife, I noticed that I had the following issues: 1. When the turn signals are turned on, both the front left and right sides blink together. If I turn the left blinker on, it blinks slightly brighter than the left. If I turn the right blinker on, it blinks slightly brighter. The rears works as they should. 2. When the headlamps are turned on, neither headlamp comes on. They do not come on regardless if I select low beam or high beam. 3. When the headlamp switch is turned on, the high beam indicator and both turn signal indicators light up on the dash. I know that power is going to the headlamps. I have a pair of auxiliary lights that come on automatically with the high beams. I tapped the high beam lead to complete the signal circuit for the relay that powers the auxiliary lights. Since the auxiliary lights are on any time that I have the headlamps on, it seems as though I am getting power to the high beams even when I have low beams selected, however, the headlamps themselves never come on. Also, since the high beams are getting 12 volts, it appears that the headlamps have lost ground or they would come on. Also, the auxiliary lights both flash together when I turn either blinker on and the headlights are off, which indicates that when either blinker comes on, the high beams on the headlamps are getting voltage. I am perplexed. The very last thing I worked on before leaving was the interior lamps. I did cross one of the grounds and power lead on one of the rear interior lights and blew the fuse, but they work fine now. I checked all of the fuses in the interior as well as the engine compartment fuse boxes. I wired a new stereo and amp last weekend. Both have power leads straight to the battery. I ran both through the grommet that is slightly to the left of center on the firewall. It is above and to the right of the accelerator pedal. Since there are wires running through the grommet, I pulled it out and slid the grommet back several inches to make sure I didn't much up any of the wires when I poked additional holes in the grommet. All of those wire look fine. Any ideas????