RockRodHooligan

These will be going on a trail rig, I'm bobbing the bed so I don't want the whole bed sides, just the blisters. Trying to get some pics/measurements of short bed MJs with just the flairs so I can get an idea how much I can bob, or if I can bob as much as I would like to. Can anyone help? Mostly looking for a measurement from the tail light to the flare.

Pay very close attention to that Tera 4:1 kit, I have personally seen two of them fail at the planetary gears. After inspecting one first hand, I wouldn't run one if someone paid me to, especially behind a stroker. Here's the thread with the pics I took: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/teraf ... e-1163696/

Also, I have made a few changes to the engine "recipe". Rather than going through all the hassle of converting the Jeep over to OBD1 or OBD2, I've decided to simplify things and build it to run on propane. My choice to run E85 was based on the idea that I would be building a TJ, with an existing OBD2 system to plug into, since I have nether OBD1 or 2 to start off with now, Propane makes sense. I'll be switching to a carbureted style intake manifold, designed for the 4.0L head, from Clifford Performance, carburated type distributor, and tentatively, the conversion kit from gotpropane.com. I still need to call them and ask a few questions, both about the kit, and a few general questions about propane in general(octane rating, approx range per forklift sized tank, ect). No need for a new engine wiring harness, gage cluster(or dash if OBD2), injectors, ECU tune, fuel pump, fuel cell, etc. Electrically I plan on ripping out everything that isn't absolutely needed, strip it down to charging/starting, lighting/gages, stereo, and a few other odds and ends, no need for any emissions/fuel system since I will be running on propane. Charging/starting and lighting wiring harnesses are going to get beefed up, found 1 gage battery cables at work the other day that will do nicely for the charging/starting system. I'm still trying to decide what color I want to paint it, but right now the front runner is: Grabber Blue: Solid color, so it's easy to paint, and can be sprayed as a single stage paint, making it cheep and easy to touch up. I also think the color itself will hide a lot of little scratches and what not thats bound to happen wheeling it.

This is what I have planed for the bed of the truck. The idea actually came from the Ultimate F150 that Petersen's built for the 2011 Ultimate Adventure. Though because of the F150s body lines, they ended up making a little different cut, though it worked out to their advantage. The MJ should be just an easy 12"(give or take) wide cut strait down, but I'm making multiple cuts to shorten the bed both front and rear of the axle, shortening the rear overhang a total of 18", and the wheel base a total of 12.5". 12.5" section to come out of the front of the bed 18" section out of the rear For the bedsides I'm only going to make one cut, about a 26.5" section out of the middle(thats an estimate, not going to cut the bedsides until after the bed had been cut down, and remeasure). I'll cut the section out, then tac weld the two back together, cut my new wheel well opening, then finish the weld. This is all that will be visible of the factory bed sides once I get the flairs on I think the whole corner is going to come together nicely The end result will be about a 61" bed(5'1"), and about a 107" wheelbase before any front stretch, probably 109" in the end.

What did you end up doing as far as block brackets go? I've got an old WJ block that was given to me, and would like to use it in the MJ, but I'm not going to go through all the trouble of building a stroker motor, and not put the MORE Bombproof style block brackets on it. I've personally seen two 4.0s brake bolt bosses off, seen another that should have, and Davey's Jeeps always has 4.0s with busted bolt bosses on their site.

Yeah, they will only work if you are using the old Chevy/Jeep style Dana 44 knuckles and calipers. IE a "true" D44 or those Reid Racing Dana 30/Rubicon 44 knuckles.

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I really don't have many good pictures of the MJ yet, so far the best I have are from when I went to pick it up: As for the rest of the build, this is what my storage unit looks like: Engine and transmission: 0331 head: HP44: The 9" housing and 3rd member are at my buddies in Ohio, I bought them off of him and we haven't gotten together to take delivery of them yet, He did send me some pics when he sand blasted the 3rd member for me, but refuses to send me pics of the final product, something about baby blue and yellow paint? Early pics of the Chevy flat tops and Ford hubs/rotors You can see the partially assembled knuckles with the high steer arms here

The MJ I bought the 89 Pioneer MJ as a mild project toy/DD/parts hauler, and had played around with several options, the most extensive being a 97+ XJ front end swap, w/OBD2 4.0L, AW4, 4WD conversion, and an 8.8. But as I dug deeper into the MJ, I started to find out quickly, that the only thing I really had was a good body. It has several brake issues, the BA 5/10, D35, and an engine that has bad blow-by. Feeling overwhelmed I pushed it to the back burner. I hated that I have an entire drivetrain coming together, that I wasn't willing to put into the MJ because I wanted to use it as a DD, and I will never DD a wheeler because I need to, especially one that will have the drivetrain I am building. Then the other day I stumbled on this: http://zoneoffroad.com/blog/?tag=ultimate-adventure For being on 40"s it looks really good, almost like it was meant to go together like that, and as I looked at it more and more, I started seeing some really cool ideas, and some that gave me some ideas of my own. I finally decided that I would be fine with building an MJ instead if a TJ. Besides, everyone builds TJs. So for the most part, here is the initial design plans: Ditch the long bed, 119" is way more than I ever wanted in an offroad rig. Bob the frame just behind the cab, and rebuild out of box tube to place the wheelbase at about 107". Find the bed, I'm cutting it up, shortening the bed a total of about 26" keeping just enough room for the tailgate just past the fiberglass pre runner style blisters. I'm going to go through adding some 1/8"-3/16" plate across the inside/top of the bed rail to help strengthen it up as I'm putting it all back together.

This is the result of two different build plans: Initially I started gathering the drivetrain to put into my 01 XJ, but after realizing I was fighting a loosing battle since getting t-boned, I decided to scrap the Jeep, and wipe the slate clean and scrap the XJ. The plan was to finnish building the parts I already had, namely the whole drivetrain, and then start looking for a TJ to put everything in. A rig literally built from the Ground Up. The Drivetrain Front axle/suspension Ford HP Dana 44 BTF Dana 44 Front Truss System Dana 44 Inner Knuckle Gusset Set (Inner C's) - Done Detroit Locker 5.13 HP Dana 50 gears to be installed(Jana54) Chevy flat top knuckles w/Moog ball joints, Yukon - Chevy small bearing spindles, 79-86 Chevy 3/4 ton calipers, Performance Friction pads(P/N 0052.10- Severe Duty), Wagner hubs and rotors(76-92 Ford 1/2 ton - 11.75"), and Warn Premium Lockouts - Done 79 Chevy outer axle shafts - Done 79 Ford inner axle shafts - Done Dana/Spicer 5-760X u-joints with full circle clips. (Eventually RCVs are planed, just trying to get it assembled and driving first) Custom Mid-arm 3-Link Front Suspension Custom track bar 1.5"OD .250 wall DOM w/hiems Upper arm - 1.75" OD, .250" wall DOM w/ 1" shank Johnny Joints Lower arms - 2" OD, 4340 heat treated w/ 1 1/4" shank Johnny Joints Steering Steering Kit 3/4" with High Misalignment Spacers D44 High steer arms - Done 03-06 SRT10 Viper power steering pump - Done PSC Power steering pulley - Done 99 Durango power steering box Hayden power steering cooler - Done Springs/shocks Bilstein shocks 4.5" or 5.5" lift Rear Axle/Suspension Ford 9" Moser Engineering - Ford 9" axle housing brace Strange Engineering Pro-Nodular 9" 3rd member Detroit Locker, 35 spline Moser alloy shafts, 5.14 gears, 1350 Yoke BTF 9" Pinion Guard Custom disc brake brackets, 83-97 4WD S-10 calipers - Done, Performance Friction pads - Done, 95-01 Ford Explorer front rotors -Wagner - Done Single Triangulated 4-linkRear Suspension Upper control arms - 1.75" OD, .250" wall DOM w/ 1" shank Johnny Joints Lower control arms - 2" OD, 4340 heat treated w/ 1 1/4" shank Johnny Joints Radflo 2.5 coilovers are planned for the rear *Tires/Wheels Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 37x12.5 R17 17x8.5" KMC XD Enduro beadlocks Engine 4.7L stroker Clifford carburated 4.0L intake manifold GotPropane.com conversion kit JBA Header 00+ 4.0L TUPY revised 0331 head - Done, ported and polished - In Progress Mopar Performance 0.043" Head Gasket - P4529242 - Done COMP Cams 68-232-4 Cam - Done COMP Cams High Energy Timing Chain Set - 3219 - Done Sealed Power hydraulic lifters - HT2011 - Done Mopar Performance Valve Springs - P5249464 Mopar Performance Valve Spring Retainers - P4452032 Manley Street Flo Valves - 10721-1 Manley Street Flo Valves - 10722-1 Harland Sharp Pedestal Mount Bolt-On Series Rocker Arms - S40196 Keith Black Forged High-compression Pistons .060 over - IC945-060 - Done Stock 4.0L connecting rods - Done AMC 258/4.2L crank - Done 99 WJ 4.0 Block - Done COMP Cams Engine Oil Break-in Additive - 159 - Done M.O.R.E. BombProof Block Brackets Projected power based on "Rule of Thumb" Guestimated Mathematics: ~330 HP/400 lbs/ft +/- Transmission Aisin/Warner 4 Speed (AW4) - Done RADesigns Rock Shifter Transfer case NP231D HD Dodge/Jeep hybrid New replacement wide chain(Cloyes P/N 10-022) - Done NP241D 6 pinion planetary gear set - Done Tera 2Lo - Done JB Conversions SYE w/ 1350 flange

You'd be surprised. One slow night at work I decided to cut open a few oil filters to see how they compared, picked a typical late model small block Chevy filter, and then picked out a Fram, AC Delco, Mobil 1, and Wix. Fram was by far the lowest quality of them. A few days later a guy come in looking to do an oil change, and we showed him the filters we cut apart, he still left with a Fram filter, just couldn't convince him, even with it right in front of him. After a little searching I found this on Bob Is The Oil Guy: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ber=993402

I think it was just a coincidence that it said MJ, and it was going on an MJ, unless someone at WIX has a soft spot for us. Actually a lot of spin on filters I have seen generally have something stamped on the threaded section, little things like that makes it easier for me to show customers similarities between filters. Example: The WIX 51085 and the 51515, I have talked several of the Jeep guys with the 4.0 into the 51515 filters. Same goes with the customers that still swear by Fram, I can't seem to talk them out of them so I show them the bottoms of our house brand Microguard, that are made by Fram, at least I can help them save money on a crappy filter.

I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't run the 51515 high capacity filter on the RENIX, so while I was at work the other day, I did a little research and found a deep capacity oil filter that would work with the RENIX motors without any modification. The system shows the stock replacement being a Wix 51626 filter, after doing a little digging around in the Wix books, and web site, we came up with the 51182 being a suitable replacement. As an added bonus, the 51182 has a 24 psi by-pass setting VS 8-11 psi for the 51626. It was meant to be.... Unfortunately, it isn't going to be nearly as redly available as the Wix 51515 or the FL1A, since it came on the 84-90 Peugeot 505 and 603. But since I work at a parts store, and we have a warehouse on the other side of town, we get deliveries 6 times a day, and can have parts in as little as an hour, it's not a big deal to me.

Thanks, the body is in really good shape with the exception of the huge hole in the driver floor board, very little visible rust other than that, it sat in storage for the last 6 years, so the paint needs minor TLC, had a lot of tree sap on it that wiped right off with Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax The roof needs repainted though, it's a little too far gone

Not according to the part numbers I show, 97 and 01 both show A1 Cardone P/N 18-4339 for the passenger side caliper, and P/N 18-4340 for driver. Passenger and driver side are different but the '90 and '88 the only difference is the sliders. This is unless you're talking to Eagle and quoted the wrong one. Ah, my bad, I misread what you were saying. Don't mind the new guy.

1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 4.0, BA-10, 2WD, D35, LWB Build date: 02/89 Location: Indianapolis IN Status: Project in slow progress, DD/parts hauler Specs: Tan paint/interior, some sort of woven/textured vinyl bucket seats, 3rd window, no A/C, manual windows/locks, no vent windows? I'm the owner

Not according to the part numbers I show, 97 and 01 both show A1 Cardone P/N 18-4339 for the passenger side caliper, and P/N 18-4340 for driver.