pizzatree

Attempting to fix a sagging door and ripped pillar weld with this method https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973 BUT in the process of removing the door discovered the torx bolts holding the upper hinge on were completly rusted to the backing plate, (2 immediately snapped off and I just cut the 3rd). I've searched and am only coming up with fixes for the cab side backing plate. Does anyone have advise or experience in replacing the door side hinge backing plate?

Thanks for checking and I absolutely will wait! I’d like to have it done the right way and I’m fine using my rigged Bluetooth speaker for a while. Will PM you my info

Wiring plug from Jeep to Radio. Mine was cut to add an aftermarket. I wouldn’t mind adding an aid plug either though

anyone have info on kits or diy source for rx161 harness?

Continued intermittent high idle issues at start up - Sensor ground upgrade (cruiser tip 6) and c101 connector elimination (cruiser tip 27) TPS engine adjustment high idle seems better

Nov '21 Leaking Fuel Injectors - upgrade to 4.0 remanufactured 4 port, cleaned injection ports, replaced fuel rail disconnects Added ground to blower motor No Start & Burning/electrical smoke from rear engine - Bench test starter (dead). replaced with Duralast remanufactured starter

Junkyard trip for a few upgrades - Replaced passenger “release” mirror that was barely hanging on with a solid one Upgrade to 90s XJ ECU (cruiser tip 40) Installed Blue headlight chime relay Dash clock Window cranks and speaker grills Greased passenger window track and added a dowel/shim so it doesn’t go down “too far” and get stuck Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Trying to fix rough idle - Cleaned throttle body and IAC sensor Modified throttle boy to MAP hose (cruiser tip #31) Throttle response is better but still have rough idle Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Air filter was saturated in oil - cleaned valve cover and modified the flutes (cruiser tip #25). Replaced breather hoses and vacuum harness New air filter Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Some, but most things are [emoji51]….we’ve got a leak on the “to-do” list But no, I wouldn’t say it was overly covered in oil. Bench tested the starter and it was dead. I’ll be replacing it today. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Battery cables were replaced last year with grounds

I’ve periodically been having no-start issues over the past few weeks. It’s always taken a while to crank but now I get no crank..if I keep trying a few times and it’ll eventually fire up. But, the last time it happened I got a noticeable electrical burning smell and with the hood open I can see a bit of smoke coming from the back of the engine. Battery tests good, grounds were refreshed last year and should be solid. Checked CPS and it’s good. Could the smell/smoke be the starter going bad and getting overloaded? (Planning to pull the starter and bench test it) Is there something else I’m overlooking and I should check?

Thanks for the replies Ordered a set from KSU Closest fit to what I was looking for/price Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I’m in need of new injectors and previous sources I’ve found on the forum are sold out or unresponsive (have tried JHC7399, precision auto injectors, and motor man) Does anyone know of any other reliable sources for 746 injectors that I could check? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Replaced rear axle with D35 (to avoid rebuilding bearings and seals) this one is at least smooth and very quiet compared to what we were dealing with! replaced L rear wheel cylinder new brake drums reused shoes and springs that were on the donor D35 new rear shocks replaced originals - from donor (Andy) new left rear parking brake line - parking brake now works!

Replaced headliner and recovered sun visors (visor sewing is kinda $#!&ty…will need to redo)

Yep, pretty close to it. I’ll have to get a pic of the original paint inside/engine bay

1987 Comanche Pioneer 4.0L I6, MPI Auto 2WD 7ft Bed 120” Wheel Base Transfercase - Front Axle - Rear Axle - Dana35 3.55 Have owned the truck for 10 years - just now trying to keep track of what we’ve done/need to do. done: removed tow mirror/replaced with XJ mirror bodywork on doors paint to match original color speaker and head unit install Exhaust replace euramtec b-pillar lights install e-brake line replace removed push bar Adjusted TPS for auto trans - no shift past 1st and surging idle replace headliner swapped rubber bed liner for full plastic battery cable and grounds upgrade coolant bottle cap replace (Volvo Napa part) tire upgrade - Wildpeak 235/75/1 Tie-rod at pitman arrm track bar replace to do: rear axle replace rear brake rehab - ebrake? sun visor recover and install factory tape deck install with aux input door window seal replace Cracked dash replace windshield replace glovebox replace paint and attach speaker grills correct window cranks passenger window regulator sticks passenger side mirror replace A/C & heat diagnose

1987 Comanche Pioneer 4.0L I6, MPI Auto 2WD 7ft Bed 120” Wheel Base Transfercase - Front Axle - Rear Axle - Dana35 3.55 Build Date: tag has been spray painted over Current Location: South Central PA Status: On the road, weekend driver Current Owner: pizzatree (Drake)

Thanks for the offer! Would I notice a difference in the gearing? I’m running 235/15’s and was under the impression that with those tires I’d notice a difference in gearing. I do drive regularly on the highway. Would the 3.07 feel extra sluggish? Found a good 8.25 (with 3.55 gearing) 1/2 hr away for $150. Already bought parts to rebuild the brakes. Now to decide - swap D35 for D35, do brakes and top-off or upgrade to 8.25 (and deal with headache of finding welder and shop)? would rather do things on the cheap end but money isn’t a huge issue, would mostly like to make a sound choice for the longevity and enjoyment of the truck.

This has quickly turned into a list of things to do myself! On the list - Tie Rod End, Track Bar, Rear brake wheel cylinders and bleed (those all seem within my capabilities) Should I plan to rebuild the rear brakes completely with new drums, shoes, everything while I’m in there? Mechanic I talked to yesterday tried to talk me out of a gear swap. “Things don’t ever match up and you’ll always have trouble” We’re leaning towards getting the brakes firm again and topping off gear oil until we can find a shop that’ll do a swap of D35 for 8.25. Would 8.25 be the most logical axle to go with - easy to find and give us a bit more reliability? As long as we match current gearing a shop would need to weld new perches and shorten driveshaft for it to fit?

Thanks for the encouragement! The brakes are very soft - mechanic wanted to address these to pass inspection. We’re picking it up today and will be doing track bar and tie rod end at home and trying to make a decision about the axle/brakes. Planning to get underneath, pull brakes and get a better idea of what’s going on. But according to the shop - rear diff cover, rear axle seals, AND wheel cylinders are all leaking.

Yep, whirring/metal on metal from rear

Have a 2wd auto that we use for periodically hauling brush to dump and bikes to trails - some gravel roads but nothing crazy. We’re happy with it as is and are not mechanics but do wrench what we can, so…. Mechanic has told us we have a few issues to address - rear diff is leaking and likely needs bearings, rear wheel cylinders and rear axle seals are leaking. Quoted us a rough 1200 but that was before he’d looked up our specific model. I know we’ve got a D35 3.55 gearing and from reading on here I’m wondering if it’s worth it to have him rehab all of this or try to swap in something else (8.25)? We don’t really NEED an upgrade or lift, we’re happy with the mj as is. Again mechanic would be doing all this as it’s out of our comfort zone. Any thoughts based on our setup and needs?

I am fixing and recovering my headliner. JoAnn in my area is sold out of headliner fabrics. Does anyone have a source for for headliner fabric that would match a tan interior (87)?