Dandxj

Yes , The water enters through the opening in the bottom of the center portion of the rubber weatherstripping channel. It then runs down the back wall and seeps it way under the seam sealer and continues to run on top of the floor pan to the low point in the passenger feet area then out through the rusted hole in the floor. I currently have a plastic trash bag taped over the window to keeps things dry while the floor panels undergo major cancer surgery.

1990 MJ Has anyone found a source for the felt U-channel and rubber weatherstripping for the sliding rear window ? I can not find anything online when searching for Comanche parts. I have found a couple of past CC posts asking the same question but none have contained a solution. Has anyone found any usable pieces from another vehicle ( possibly a RV ) that work ? Maybe I need to walk through thru the JY and scope out other trucks with sliding windows when I get a chance. The area behind my seat keeps flooding ( gets wet ) after it rains. I am working on rusted floor pans and need to stop this leak before covering everything up. Thanks

1990 Short Bed I see that Key sells LH and RH replacement arch panels. Does anyone know if the panels are the same except for the LB gas filler door cutout. They look the same on their website. My driver side has rusted in the cutout portion. Can I use a RH panel without the cutout on the LH side ? Thanks

I found a JY which had a 96 XJ and went to get a seat base. The base and mounting locations are different from earlier XJs. They looked the same as on a 97+ XJ. Does anyone know when the switch was made ? I will keep looking as I am still in need of the track rollers and retaining clips.

Schardein, Yes that looks like the same spring. It is on the outside on the MJ bench rail frame. I also found out I am missing the rollers inside the rail slide on the passenger side. Not sure how they would fall out. You would have to completely disassemble the rail slide to remove them. I have not had the truck long and I am constantly finding weird things. It would be helpful to know if XJ bucket parts are the same.

1990 MJ 4.0L aw4 My bench seat is difficult to adjust so I looked underneath and the passenger side spring is missing. It is the large spring on the outside of the rail. The one on the driver's side OK. Does anyone know of a source for the spring or where to get a suitable replacement ? Thanks

If you do happen to come across some I would be interested in buying a couple from you. I will continue to look locally, if I find some I will let you know so you are not hunting for nothing. Thanks

Did you ever find a source for the clip which snaps into the door? I also need one as one of mine has broken. Currently none of the local JYs have any 96 and down XJs ( or MJs). Has anyone else had this issue and found a clever fix?

Looking nice - Thank you

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the jack instruction sheet that goes behind the seat ? Does anyone have an electronic file copy they can post or PM me ? Thanks

Thanks - now I can resume assembling the dash.

Sorry for not giving more information The truck is a 1990 (Renix) with an automatic.

I think I have identified all the loose wiring under the dash from POs except for the one pictured. It has a Blk/W wire and a Bl/W wire entering the connector. The two wires are jumpered together with what looks like a factory jumper. Does anyone know what this is for ? Thanks

Thanks to all for your help. Pete M - I can not find any links associated with your signature block. What am I missing ?

Funny you should mention the REM. I messaged Nick last week and he told me it would be sometime in 2025 before they would be available again. The O2 sensor is a new NTK - 2 mos ago.

Currently I can not drive it very far (legally) , it does not have any plates.

OK- Finally got back to working on the truck and took a trip into "forbidden territory" . I got the truck running, unplugged the IAC and backed the torx screw out until the idle reached 750 rpm. It took almost 2 turns ~1 7/8. It idled nicely.Plugged the IAC back in. I shut the truck off and said hurrah. Now- on the next startup and everyone since, it does its 2 second high idle and then drops back to 500 rpm. If I just let it idle, it slowly creeps back up to ~ 750 rpm and idles fine, but this takes almost 5 minutes as it warms up. This is better than constant low idle, but sort of odd. Most engines start high and go down in rpm as they warm up. Could this be a weak temperature sensor ?? Any thoughts ? Thanks

Tip 13 done. Took forever to find my distributor wrench. I only moved the distributor < 1/8 inch counterclockwise to align it. The engine still idles low. Note: the truck did not run when I got it and it has sat for several years. Because I was working to get it running I capped off the vacuum port at the back of the manifold since I do not need cruise/heater/CAD right now. I unplugged it to attach vacuum gauge while running. Unplugged it jumped to 750 RPM and runs fine. Vacuum is steady at 20 in/Hg at idle.

I have completed 1,3 (except headlight connector- for later), 4,5,7,8,9,11,14,18,28,29,31

Just curious, has anyone made a CPS hole cover on their printer? I know they are not necessary but one would be nice to have especially to prevent the bolt from falling in with the converter during removal / installation. I was thinking of having my grandson try to print one but I would really need an original to copy. I know there is a difference between the RENIX and HO covers. I bought one several years back and they sent me a HO cover and I need a RENIX cover. Again just curious

- 1990 4.0L with AW4 I got the truck running again ( Thanks to assistance from Cruiser 54 )but it idles kinda rough and low at 550-600 RPM. When I open the throttle to achieve 750 RPM it smooths out nicely. I can get it to idle at 750 RPM if I poke down into the throttle body with a flat screwdriver and push the IAC pintle back out ( it returns to 550 RPM when I remove the screwdriver ) or if I use the small set screw and increase the butterfly valve opening. Opening the butterfly valve this way the gap is larger than the recommended .030 in. gap. Is this an acceptable fix ? I did not measure how much of an increase is needed. Am I overlooking something? Also at 550 RPM the timing is 18* BTDC. Is this what it should be? Thanks

Thank you for the advice. I removed the front driveshaft. Access is still tricky, but much more room. ( The real problem is I am getting too old to be laying on my back under the truck ). I drilled the CPS and reinstalled. The voltage went up to .52 volts and it starts quicker. Not too bad for a 32 year old sensor. Hopefully I can end my hunt for another OEM CPS. Would there be any advantage in enlarging the lower hole as well ? Thanks again

I have not drilled the current CPS. I was going to do that when I got a new one. When I replaced the one in theXJ I drilled it out before installing. Has worked great for years. I guess I could try it on the current CPS - it would not cost anything. It is just a major pain to get one in or out of the truck.

How do I go about persuading the parts guy to try harder? I'll also try a different dealer. Thanks

- 1990 MJ AW4 with column shifter - 4 Liter I am replacing the CPS on the truck. It will crank but not run. The CPS ohms out at 250 ohms but the cranking AC voltage is only .25-.30 volts. I have replaced the CPS on my XJ before but it has a floor shifter. Looking under the truck it looks like I would have more access if I removed the shifter cable. Has anyone done it that way before and did it help ? Now for the big question. Where to get a reliable CPS. When I did the XJ I got it from the dealer. That was around 10 years ago. It was pricey back then - around $65, but worth it ( still working fine ). The dealer no longer carries the CPS and says new MOPAR CPS is not available. Advance/Autozone/Oreillys carry them but I question their quality. NAPA lists three CPSs - all essentially the same price but with different warranties. An Echlin with 36 mos, a Proformer with 12 mos and a Dorman with a lifetime warranty. I usually avoid Dorman electrical stuff unless absolutely necessary. I had a Wells in the XJ when the OEM went out but it did not last long - less than two years. That is why I went with MOPAR. Any comments and suggestions for a replacement would be appreciated.