CheepComanche

While I was under my Jeep assessing other issues I noticed that my pinion yoke moves up and down. I think the nut is just loose and needs to be tightened up. Can I just tighten it or is this a more complicated fix?

Does the np207 use the same slip yoke as the np231?

My floor pans do have some surface rust which I will remove with a wire wheel. What would be best to coat the floor pans with?

Does the headliner need to be removed prior to removing the window?

I was vacuuming out the interior of my Jeep yesterday when I noticed that I had water coming in through the bottom corners of the rear window. After peeling the carpet back and knowing there was water under there I quickly removed the carpet to prevent floor pan rust. I'm now faced with the task of fixing the leak. Do I need to remove the window and reglue it or can I just redo the seal?

Replacing the tail housing bushing hasn't changed the amount of play. I'm planning on getting a new yoke to see if that's the problem but if its not I'll probably swap over to an np231.

I’ve ordered a new tail housing so I’ll have to wait and see if that fixes the problem. I think the bushing in there was completely worn out.

I took the tail shaft off the t-case and found the bearing to be fine and the play to be in the slip yoke. What can be done to fix this? Also would this play cause the clunking sound at slow speed?

After further consideration I think I can get away with just replacing the rear output shaft bearing. I’ve never messed with a t-case before, what all goes into replacing the rear bearing?

I'm pretty sure my trans and t-case are from 1986. Does that make a difference?

I was looking to rebuild my np207 as the slip yoke has a lot of play and creates a clunking noise at low speed. It feels similar to a bad U-joint and lots of oil is leaking out as I drive. However, I can't seem to find a rebuild kit for the np207 so I though I might as well swap in an np231. Before I go looking for another t-case I want to be sure what is compatible with my ax5 trans.

When it comes to an egr delete, what all is required?

I'm considering deleting the egr valve and removing as many vacuum lines are possible. I'm not sure what goes into this process and what vacuum lines can be deleted but I would like to clean up the engine bay.

I know this is a little off topic but I was wondering what this is for. Some of the vacuum lines going into it fell off when I messed with it and others I can’t remove.

The motor mounts could certainly could be my problem. The engine in my jeep was swapped in a little over a year ago and I’m not sure if the mounts are bad. I’m not sure how much the engine should move when you rev it.

The throttle snaps right back but I have noticed the rev hang gets worse as the truck warms up. Not sure what that could mean

The bolts are tight. Maybe I should replace all the vacuum lines as they are all original.

I unplugged the map sensor vacuum hose and the truck just ran rough. I also unplugged the tps and it also just made the truck run rough. This leads me to believe that both sensors are working so I’m not sure where to go from here.

I've put a hose clamp on the pcv hose and the throttle body bolts are tight. I'm wondering if it could be a bad map sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere else. I have noticed that It rev hangs worse going up a hill.

Alright, will do. Also, was vacuum line that you mentioned the pcv hose?

Yeah, I have the cones off the the probes but still not luck getting the probes into the plug. It looks the the plastic of the plug is tight around the wire.

For the past few months my Renix 2.5 Comanche has had a rev hang like issue. When I take my foot off the throttle to shift, the rpm doesn't go down and in some cases it goes up. Originally I thought my o2 sensor was to blame but after replacing that with an NTK sensor the problem didn't resolve. I've now moved on the the TPS however I am unable to backprobe the connector as I can't fit the probes of my multimeter in the plug. I'm not sure where to go from here.

I decided to inspect my vacuum lines this week and I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers to. In the picture with the two vacuum lines going into the intake tube, the upper line just goes around the engine bay where it connects to the air box. I'm unsure of what this line could do. The lower line goes down to the intake manifold as shown the the other picture where it then goes off into the firewall.

I just took of my brake drums for the first time and I'm glad I did. Not only were the brake shoes extremally thin, the pad material was broken off of the metal part of the shoe. So I had no rear brakes. I'm assuming this would cause me to have to use more force to stop lol. I will still check the vacuum pressure for good measure.

I tested the HVAC and all is good. I wasn't able to get the vacuum line off the check valve as it feels like there is vacuum pressure holding it on. I am still going to test the vacuum with a gauge but I'm not sure where to hook up the gauge. There is this T-piece that I'm not sure what its for but I thought maybe I could connect the gauge to that.