brucecooner

Sure thing. I've been meaning to ask you if there was any XJ/MJ/Jeep community around the west valley. I'm also curious what kind of XJ compatible businesses we might have around. Not many, I suspect, but a four wheel drive shop might be able to a few things. lol I hadn't even thought of taking it to a show. I really did just buy it as my truck. But you're right, there aren't many of these around, and there's probably more than a few Jeep and old truck enthusiasts who'd enjoy seeing it at a show. I'll have to add that to the plan. I figured out CAD is the Central Axle Disconnect. I'll have to do some research on that. Thanks!

Thanks everyone for the welcomes. I took PocketsEmptied and Pete M's advice and added some pictures. And JMO413's and updated my sig so it's at least somewhat informative. I've also got cruiser's website bookmarked, I'll have to see how far I can make it down the list. The only bad road habit it has is that bringing it to a stop is an action you have to plan way ahead for. And it squeals a bit while stopping, so next on my plan is to jack it up, take the wheels off and have a looky at the brake situation.

I was thinking, "I posted a pic in the VIN thread, I don't want to over do it." But this is definitely a place that warrants a picture or two.

Or as I call it, the poor man's lift kit. I didn't get an owner's manual with my truck, and I haven't downloaded one yet, but I wanted to turn to the forums and see what the consensus is. In the rear.... Some googling indicates that in the rear, put the jack under the pumpkin and stands can go right on the tubes, near the wheels. Or should the stands go right under the leaf packs? I gotta say, this business of jacking up a vehicle via a vital mechanical component feels dangerous to me. I'm sure my rear axle is the Dana Delicate which seems to make it an even dicier proposition. Some pictures indicated you could put the jack under the frame rails just ahead of the wheels. And of course this all assumes your jack can reach any part of the vehicle, which I guess is what makes the pumpkin a popular option. In the front... I couldn't form a clear picture of what to do in the front. (My Ranger is easy, there are cross members and A-arms everywhere I go under that guy.) Some threads said jack from the center, next to the front diff, others said not to. Is there no solid piece beneath the knuckle you could use or does it instantly destroy them to put a jack anywhere near the wheel? Anyone have any solid rock solid options on getting one of these in the air?

I succumbed to some sort of mania, which most of you will probably understand, upon encountering a super clean 1988 Gray MJ with a 4.0 with 190K on the clock and 5 speed manual and no rust. I appear to have bought it. When I awoke from a fever dream it was parked in my driveway. I've wanted a four wheel drive vehicle for a while. I live in Arizona and there are more than a few roads I've had to avoid as being beyond my 2WD Ranger's abilities. I've long been drawn to XJ's. They have a solid reputation and I see them all over the roads here, the dry climate here granting them some measure of immortality. But I really wanted a truck. I just like trucks and I think most guys understand that. Mix those ingredients together and you get the somewhat rare beast that is the Comanche. So an MJ was high on my shopping list. We can and should debate the merits of buying a 30+ year old vehicle as one's first four wheeler. And had I done my research by reading some of the juicier threads here, I probably would have passed on buying a 30 year old truck and put the money down on a lightly used Wrangler. I could have been out there wheeling right now! But I have wanted a vehicle I could learn to wrench on a little bit. Also I find four wheel drive suspension systems fascinating and would like to begin tinkering with one. The example I bought was clean enough that it didn't look like it would require a mountain of effort to keep going. But I never lied to myself that owning a decades old truck wouldn't entail learning and effort. All sufficiently old vehicles are project vehicles, no matter what state they're in. And, at the end of the day, I just love the way it looks. It's true I have always said one should never buy a car or get married based on looks alone, but I've also never been one to take my own advice. So yeah, I made a questionable choice, but not one I can say I regret (yet). It starts, runs, and drives like a new one. And the miles I've driven it so far have put a smile on my face. But if I'm being honest, I'm nervous. The reliable old voice of doubt keeps repeating, "There is more here than you can hope to learn. You didn't think practically, and now you're in over your head." I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge and I'm afraid of encountering problems I can't fix, or breaking things I can't replace. But I wake up as a student, every day, and I've had to learn new things my whole life. If other people can do it, I can do it. I don't plan any modifications. It already came with slightly larger wheels and tires, which was all the mod I wanted, and in its current state it will probably travel all the roads I've earmarked for exploration. But I wouldn't dream of taking it into the wilds of Arizona without being reasonably sure it will get me back. So my plan for it at this time, is to learn about it. I need to learn what to check and how to check it. I need to learn what to refill, and with what. I need to learn what those clunking sounds are. I need to learn what I need to replace or fix. I need to learn what to listen and look for. I need to learn what I can do, and what I can't, and where I can get them done. I need to learn what I'm overlooking. So my plan is to break down the learning, from the most very basic stuff, and work my way up. I'm certain this will lead to lots of intensely amateur questions in the tech forum. But my impression so far is that folks here understand, when we need info we just need it. It doesn't matter how basic information might seem to the person who has it, what matters is that it's valuable to the person asking the question. So wish me luck, and with any of that luck I'll have my dream truck on some of those trails soon. I'm tracking stuff to do and stuff I've learned in another post further down: https://comancheclub.com/topic/68912-bruce-has-to-enroll-at-mj-academy/?do=findComment&comment=721403

Ah, okay. Sounds like a good piece to replace considering the low mounted alternator. My dad drove an old Ford Courier for several years that would quit running when driven in the rain because the points(?) were somewhere down low. He'd just let it dry out then continue on his way. I should think about maybe replacing some old stuff down there while I'm at it. Like, what is up with all that goopy stuff coming out of that linkage or whatever there? Thanks for the lead!

I've found these two empty holes near the front of a frame rail where there was clearly something bolted on until recently. I think this is the driver's side, but honestly I keep getting turned around under there so can't remember for sure. They are just inside of the front skid plate attachment point. I checked out the opposite side rail and over there the skid plate comes in farther and makes use of these two holes, so it appears to have been shaped to avoid covering them on this side. The different coloration says that something was there until recently. Anybody have any idea what is supposed to be there? (note: down is forward in this picture) EDIT: Okay if forward is down this would definitely be the left/driver's side. Math is hard.

The bolt from that Autozone 8-pack box of bolts did the trick. The head was 3/8ths, not 7/16th, but it went right in and bottomed out without any resistance, no broke off bolt in there thank goodness. I hand tightened then went barely the slightest smidge further. I'm looking into a torque wrench, but I'm not going to fret about it falling out since I've got a whole box full of 'em rattling around in the glove box now. You can tell in the picture it's an odd man out, a different size head from its neighbors, and it's not black. I assume a bolt is just a bolt here, and I don't need to worry about some destructive bi-metal situation. But I think I'd pick up a proper one if it was easy to locate. After this I cruised down to the gas station and filled it up. The sun went down on me and I had to hunt around for the headlight knob, that's how noob I am in it. Big thanks to everybody for sharing their knowledge.

For anyone unfortunate enough to be following this saga, today got away from me but I did get to go bolt shopping this evening. The shortest length of 1/4-20 flanged head bolt sold by my local Ace Hardware is 3/4ths of an inch. Dang. A cutoff wheel will fix that I guess (don't craze them threads boy). Aha, they also sell a Grade 8 (and 8 rhymes with great, so...that means good I guess) 1/4-20 bolt a half inch in length, but lacking a flanged head. Not being a mechanic I'm like...its a bolt, it'll probably work okay. Maybe? I could add a washer I guess. Next stop Home Depot. Exact dimensions I need stainless bolt! Yes! With serrated underside of head. No! Might work I'm thinking, but I can't muster any desire to rake those serrations against my new old oil pan. Yes, I deliberated grinding the serrations off. Lowe's had nothing close (that I could find anyway). Fortunately for my last stop I went by Autozone and they actually had exactly the bolt I need. 1/4-20 flanged head half inch in length In a pack of 8. I don't even care I'll take 'em. Yes I bought all of the listed examples, and now I have eleven 1/4-20 bolts in four styles to choose from. Surely some of those'll work! I guess my next great adventure is seeing if there's an old bolt broke off up in there. And figuring out which of thousands of models of torque wrench I should buy.

Thanks. The one they had at Home Depot was in lb inches. I think for now I'll get the bolt slightly beyond hand tight and keep an eye on it, and do some research on torque wrenches. I read a few product reviews that mentioned the low accuracy at the bottom, which gave me pause since it seems I only need a low setting here. Also lots of reviews bagged on the digital ones too, so I'm not sure which direction to head here. Of course, it was only today that I thought to wonder if there's a bolt end broken off up in there. Guess I'll find out.

Oh I'm doing it, all the way to 13 ft/lbs, because that gives me an excuse to finally buy a torque wrench. I want to get one of those serious sounding cordless impact wrenches because... well I own a 4x4, that seems like enough reason on its own to have a cordless impact wrench.

Thanks EagleScout. You saved me some hunting. I was doing a little snooping for VIN decoders today, but hadn't dug up any sources this detailed. And yep we're not far apart. I've probably watched one of your rigs pass me on the 101 in the recent past.

Yep, it's got to be one of the "front" ones in that picture. And we have a nice big Ace just up the street, looks like I'll definitely be paying a visit. Thanks for the help!

Heh, my brain had to wonder if you meant that as "You should stop driving it once all the oil leaks out." But I think you really mean it's okay as long as there's not like, oil gushing out of the hole. If oil comes gushing out of the hole, well, I don't know what I'll do but I will definitely miss that bolt much more than I do right now. After more googling in my ongoing saga, it would seem that I'm on the hunt for one of... 1/4"-20x1/2", takes a 7/16" wrench. 5/16"-18x3/4", takes a 1/2" wrench. I'm thinking I need the 1/4, although I think I'm technically looking for a bolt that goes into the timing cover and not the block. I know just enough about motors to know not to mess with them. I'll get this though. I once changed a tire so I think I can figure this out. Let's see, I'm guessing I need to know a torque number and what flavor of loc tite to apply. I hope putting a bolt in out of order won't lead to the destruction of a gasket or something.

A few days ago I bought my 1988 Comanche. I had looked under it pretty well before buying, confirmed no major leaks in the 4.0, everything was clean, but I somehow overlooked eyeballing the oil pan where it's up under the front skid plate. Today I crawl under it to look at something else and I notice the front center oil pan bolt, the one directly behind the pulley, is not there. Yeah I literally facepalmed on that one. The guy who sold it to me is a mechanic who works on lots of XJ's, and said he had replaced the rear main in this one. Maybe he forgot to replace this bolt (which begs the question of what else he forgot). I guess it might have vibrated out if not properly torqued or something? I've only driven it a couple dozen miles since I bought it though. Is it dangerous to drive it in this state? I don't see any leaking, nothing is on the upper side of the skid plate. Everything seems dry but I hope I haven't damaged anything. Anyway, is this an easily obtainable bolt for the 4.0? Feel free to point me at specs on it. I'm not much of a wrencher but hopefully I can handle this. EDIT: Other forums I've browsed seem to indicate the corner bolts are 5/16ths, and all others are 1/4 (except for the studs, which are foreign objects to this guy) So I think I'm needing a bolt that is 1/4 inch in diameter. But I haven't found any info on depth nor threads yet except "coarse", which doesn't bring up any solid info in my non-mechanic brain. This is like solving a puzzle, or a mystery!

1JTML63P6JT129962 1988 - Pioneer 4.0L Gray 5 speed manual 4x4, no info on axles, yet four wheel drum brakes 186963 miles when I parked it in my driveway Gray interior, bench seat. The VIN check only went back to 2000, but it was already north of 180K by then, so it looks like the bulk of its miles were put on in the previous century. After 2000 the miles accumulated slowly, but it was registered yearly and, I suspect, garaged based on its dang near pristine state. Other than faded paint on the hood and roof, it's a time capsule. Everything in the dash is original, and everything works (even the Jeep branded tape deck). It came with the nicer Jeep five spoke wheels of the era, but the original rims were included with it. Currently in the Southwest in sunny Goodyear, Arizona. Apparently I'm the fourth owner. The man who sold it to me is a mechanic who buys and sells lots of XJ's and MJ's, he said the original owner had only recently let it go to someone who brought it to him. Starts, runs, and drives like a new one. The only concerning mechanical issue is a very slow start when warm. Squeaks like a thirty year old truck, some new suspension bits are probably in order. I don't plan on making any major alterations, but am considering bucket seats and front disc brakes. I intend it to be my daily driver but I work from home so no commuting for this guy. And I will definitely have it off the pavement from time to time.