vanquishings

The plot thickens. Went back in today and checked the voltage on the wires, using the actual ground as a ground, I got 12V steady, on both passenger and driver side. Also upgraded to 20awg on the little adapter for the spades for the one post. Still running into the same issue. Can get it to function as intended. But the LED is extremely dim. Here are the LEDs I'm trying to use: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07T5S73DZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Maybe some of your electrical wizards can look over the specs and see if I'm missing anything obvious. If it helps, I tried one of the original bulbs from Euramtec and could not get it to function in either orientation.

Obvious information is more than welcome! This is my first real project car. So all info is good info.

This is super helpful! I'm almost 100% confident that these are indeed stereo wires. Dealership said it came in from the PO without any stereo, and they just threw in a quick single din and two speakers behind the bench seat. It was a quick and dirty job, and the red and yellow wires do indeed head up towards the radio unit. I'm going to be removing the lower dash to fix something, and I'll be able to get a better look. I'd have to imagine the guys at the dealership didn't know where these wires should go, and just tried things until it worked. That being said, I got the truck with the red cable detached, and the radio works fine without it, while the truck is running. But I'll see if it'll turn on with the key in the ACC position, as well. I plan on replacing the entire radio/sound system down the road anyways, but this is gold for resolving a pesky mystery wire! I'll report back!

Very interesting. That's exactly how I had wired mine, as well the issue I was having where there's no always off. Door switch works fine though, and that's what I was going for, mostly. I'm wondering if it's my ghetto wiring attempt, or maybe the wrong LED bulb that's causing my weak brightness. Neck time I'm working on it, I'll try the passenger side, and one of the original bulbs that came with the light. Also got some thicker gauge wire to make my little adapter for that thicker positive tab. Taking them off is easily. Little detent at 3 and 9 o clock on the euramtecs. Small little flathead should be plenty to press them and slowly wedge it out.

Haven't been able to crawl under it lately, but I'll be able to take a look tomorrow and try to see the route it takes and get some dimensions for tubing, just in case it could be useful down the road for someone else.

Also worth mentioning that I've only been working on the driver side light. I wonder if my luck would change on the other side. I'll have to give it a shot the next time I'm working on it.

Take your time, I'll be out of town this weekend, anyways. ! I'll shoot you a PM about shipping. Still waiting to hear back from @TheDude about his potential back glass. But it'd be cool to have one to see if I can combine two broken ones and make a complete one!

I haven't pulled the door trim out to confirm. And judging from the state of my lights, there's probably something crossed somewhere. But I am certain that the door switch works when I have it in the two wire set up. Can reach over and press the door switch and turn it on and off. Albeit very dim.

Proving to be quite the challenge. And easier said than done. Used safelite on my daily driver without any headache, but this older glass is no joke!

Ahh, okay. Little far for a road trip for me. Would you be willing to ship it? I'd be happy to cover costs and kick you some extra cash, as well! Hearing that about the CRL makes me want to continue to seek the 3 piece. I definitely don't trust myself with the regular epoxy, so I doubt some guy at a mobile glass spot would put great care into massaging an aluminum frame.

That's what I thought. Thought it might be that smaller jump cable, but I tried the factory original, and was getting a similar reading. That being said, the leads I had on my multimeter are short, so I didn't have the best options for grounds. I'll retry it.

Red is hot with ~5ish volts with the key in the on position. Other two are 0s with the key in the on position. Didn't try them with the car running because I ran out of time.

We have a winner! Dug a little deeper today and was actually able to see the port where it goes. Any good replacements out there so I can replace this? where does the other end go? A fuel line under the truck somewhere?

Where are you located? I may be interested, even if it's missing a middle. I've been told that's the easiest pane to replace. And I do have a good middle portion, already. I didn't realize there was aluminum involved in the CRL, that's gotta be the reason that guy seemed ho hum about them.

Absolutely! Let me know how your attempt goes! I'm waiting for a bit thicker gauge wire to arrive to see if that fixes the brightness issue I'm having. Still can't figure out a way to connect all three wires and have them work as intended. But can get them working with two outta three.

To add to this, can't be cruise control, my truck doesn't have it.

I do! Didn't think to check. I'll check for voltage on all 3 with the key on, and engine running. Eagle also thought I should try the bulb the other way around, as well.

I would have to agree. I think the yellow cable that is running along with it, isn't either. The dealer installed a cheapo radio and speaker set up, just because the car didn't have one. I wonder if that could be it. If yellow is plugged into IGN on the fuse box, should red be plugged into something as well? For what it's worth, Radio is working fine, as is. Interesting! I was looking to see where that plastic fitting could have come from, but I didn't look there. I'll have to take another look when I go work on it, again. Hmm. Not a bad option. Bit of a dumb question, but the radio is working fine now, would it be able to if it was an antenna cable?

Doh, I'm an idiot. Thought I had uploaded. Fixed now!

Was working away today and wanted to present you guys with a few mystery cables. First one is under the hood, by the cylinder closest to the firewall. Seems to have some kind of plastic fitting inside of the loose end. If I look at it from underneath, it's appears to go between the wheel well and transmission. Second is under the dash. Red cable near the fuse box. I assume this just needs to be plugged in somewhere. Heads right towards the center of the car. Lastly, anyone know the thread pitch on the lower dash screws and the license plate lamp screws? I've got the diameter and length, but my thread pitch tool doesn't have any course options available. Are they just sheet metal screws?

Tinkered around with it the euramtecs cabin lights today and was able to find the wiring diagram in another thread. My results were hit and miss. Was able to get the light on, but it was very dim. I assume that had to do with the very small gauge wire I was using, as well as the poor connection. Definitely not the final solution, just wanted to see if I could get them on without a trip to the hardware store. I was! The light was very dim, and I was able to get it to work as intended, but only with 2 cables attached. If I attached 3, I'd get power but it was a constant on no matter which mode was selected. Also worth mentioning that the small red male spade connectors meant for 22-16ga wire will not fit inside the factory female connector. The factory females fit just fine on 2 of the euramtec posts, but the third for 12V is larger. As you can see in the photo, the yellow spades meant for 12-10AWG fits fine on the larger post. I'm sure it's just my lack of electrical engineering that leading to the dimness. But I thought it was worth sharing! May just have to bite the bullet and snip the factory wires. Wouldn't be the end of the world, but I was hoping not to.

@eaglescout526you were indeed correct. A hard yank and all 3 came out on both sides. Posting the rest of the update in my Member project, as to not clutter this up.

Sent you a PM!

I'll have to check the bag, they came in, but I don't recall seeing any literature with them. If nothing else, that gives me a starting point. Way easier trying that, then flipping it if it doesn't work, than trying 9 different combinations!

Ahh, okay. That's what it looked like, but I was giving it a good pull. I'll have to go a bit harder. You wouldn't happen to know which wire goes where on the euramtec, would you, @eaglescout526? Saw an older post that had mentioned a brown wire, but I've got black, black/white and red.