vanquishings

So a 43205 will work? I'll just have mismatched U joints? I assume I'll still need a dust cover and new u joint, would I need anything else with the later model outer axle stub? Just trying to get all my options here.

Also worth mentioning that I also threw in a https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p77/XJ%2FMJ_Ultimate_Power__%2F-_Cable_Upgrade.html#/ and fresh battery in an effort to chase some of my longer crank times I get on the truck. Sadly, neither did anything to fix it. And in doing so, I realized the PO definitely did some rewiring of electricals that aren't up to code. It would seem my truck is missing it's entire relay box....

To be honest with you, $85 is what I was thinking the shop was gonna charge me just for the time it took them to hammer on it. Thankfully, they didn't charge as they couldn't remove it. A full axle swap might be best left for a rainy day, but it's definitely on my list. The 30 doesn't seem to be the best choice for much of anything, but I also just wanna get this thing back on the road. I'm glad I asked for help and got someone knowledgeable. I had no clue axles and u joints were so complex. If I buy that outer stub, I assume I'll need to buy the corresponding dust shield 40589. Would I need to grab anything else?

ahh, I'm glad someone weighed in. I was about to snag one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/284165641779, but now I can see what you're saying about the U joint size. How hard to find are the 40611s? If a 20 ton press and map gas didn't get it to move, I'm not sure any slide hammer will. And the last thing I wanna do is pull an entire axle. I don't mind buying an inner shaft, but it seems like that's where things get pricy. Maybe I can pull a 40611 from a pull apart.

FEAR NOT! This project has not died, it is alive. Just bought a place, so this has been on the back burner of late. But during my last little cruise, I encountered some nasty death wobble. Started with tie rod ends. Next drive, definitely noticed my alignment was off, but the slop in the steering wheel is substantially better. Driving back, hit a bump, death wobble. Decide to throw ball joints and wheel hubs at it next. Disassembly was easy enough! the auto zone loaner: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-ball-joint-press-adapter/p/great-neck-ball-and-u-joint-press-set/557231_0_0 doesn't have the removal piece you need for ball joints. Had to take it back. Finding the bigger 23 piece kit available at Advanced auto was a challenge in itself. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-46-ball-joint-u-joint-service-set-23-piece-648617/9150043-P I finally tracked it down, but it was in rough shape. And to top it off, was missing the small removal piece to press out the upper ball joints. Argh. Ended up having to snag this on Amazon to press out two ball joints. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ5JTW7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details New ball joints went in relatively easily, actually. I'm not sure how wild I am about the new Moog design without a dust boot, as it leaves a bit of a gap, but I got em for stupid cheap, so I can't complain. The PO replaced one ball joint and it had an UNREAL amount of up and down play to it. I understand top joints do, but this was about an inch of play, and I could shake it up and down. Probably not in spec. The other 3 were definitely factory original from 88, so didn't hurt to replace them. But then wheel hubs were a separate issue. Front driver side came out as god intended. But the front passenger side is a different beast. A couple beers, a couple more hammers, and countless swear words, and the hub finally busted free. Only one small issue, the axle came with it. I'm a simple man, and this is my first project, so I don't have a bunch of cool air tools. After trying a combination of pullers https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-axle-puller/ren1/67030, https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-front-wheel-drive-hub-puller/ren1/67032, bigger hammers, and penetrating fluid, I started to call shops around the area seeing who had neater tools than me. Found one. We tried air hammers (multiple), heat, a 20 ton press, and even bigger hammers. Wheel hub and axle didn't even blink at us. So, my truck is still on jack stands while I try to figure out the vast world of Dana Spicer parts and compatibilities. Hoping I can just source an outer axle and throw a new hub on it and use the old, inner axle as is with a u joint swap. But I'm seeing all kinds of different lengths and teeth count. All in all, it's actually quite a fun learning experience. This is a great first car to work on, parts are readily available, cheap, and there's great resources like this place to lean on. And now for the photo dump.

Chasing the dreaded death wobble. Onto ball joints and wheel hubs, now. Driver's side wheel hub came out effortlessly. Passenger side was a different story. While beating on it with a hammer, the axle decided to came with it. Tried a puller, took it to a shop, tried a press, air hammer, heat, the whole 9. Axle and hub want to be together forever. Not the end of the world. I was thinking I can just buy a new outer axle and pull that u joint and throw on the new hub. Upon looking, I've been overwhelmed by options. Can anyone lead me in the right direction? Threw some photos of what I pulled out of my passenger side, and the front diff. My limited understanding is it's a dana 30 front, and those are bad, but beyond that, I'm helpless.

You might be a godsend. I was about to drive 300 miles one way, and then back for one. Just sent him an email.

Smaller fix today, replaced the gas cap. Old O ring was toast, bought one with a tether on sale. Figured if I don't like the tether, I could just nip it off. No clue where it's supposed to attach, but it screws on fine, so I can't complain. Also might need to grab a little rubber bumper for the door. Not sure what the OEM replacement is, or if I should just find a cheap adhesive one for cabinets in the mean time.

Fear not! This project hasn't died, just haven't had much time to work on it. Just bought a new place, and in the midst of moving, and contractors has left little time to work on the Manche, sadly. That being said, bought a reman power steering pump that actually has the threaded holes for the rear mounting screws. Ended up replacing that, as well as that bracket that holds the pump in place. I tried to ez out that broken bolt, but didn't pull it from the bay beforehand. Ending up getting off center and ruining it a bit. Thankfully, just a $30 fee for a new bracket from the pull apart. And I still think I can salvage this one. But that one is on me. Lesson learned. Part of the reason I chose this truck is because of parts availability, and this is a perfect example of it. A growing pain. Also replaced the serpentine belt while I had the pump off, just because. Still tinkering with tension, but no squeaks, at least. While I had the air box off, I pulled the top of the throttle body off to clean it. Butterfly was actually pretty clean, but there was some odd white residue that wouldn't come off with throttle cleaner. The gasket could also use replacing, but I couldn't seem to find that part on rock auto. Also seems one of the three screw holes for air intake on top of the throttle body has stripped. PO just used a bolt and nut through the hole. Seems to be working, for now. If you have an idea of what that white build up is, lemme know. Was going to remove the throttle body and super clean it, but it seemed like it's more than just popping off a few sensor connectors, so I left it in place and gave it a quick scrub with a nylon brush. I was getting very intermittent high RPMs on start ups, and it seems to have gone away. Got myself a new Wix air filter to throw in when I took the filter box off. My box seems to be bowed out on the sides, causes the filter to sag. Not sure what causes that, but it still closes up fine, so I'll keep on jeeping. I know it ain't the prettiest, but she's mine, and I'm learning!

Still on the lookout for one of these. The only thing harder to find than a back glass is finding someone willing to return a phone call about a back glass.

Gotcha. Worth mentioning that all of this was done without the truck running. It's without a power steering pump right now, so once I get that and the belt back on, I'll be able to get it running and pull the lower dash. Gimme a few days to buy a test light as well. I'll report back with my findings. I appreciate all the help!

I've got to take the lower dash off for a few other things, so I assume this will be in that area? Am I just unplugging and replugging C118 to see if that's the fix first? Forgive my ignorance here. I've got skills, but electrical know how ain't one of them!

So, the plot thickens! Went back today with another type of LED, and some regular incandescents. These: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081VCP2KK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 and these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079SMTFKP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I was unable to get either illuminated. I tried all there and measured for volts while they were in the housing assembly. Got zeros. With the dimly lit LED from before, I was able to get a steady reading of 8.27V testing several times. I removed the housing entirely and tested voltage from red to blk and red to blk/wht and was able to get 11.90ish every time. I'm far from an electrician, but I'm pretty stumped.

Another one bites the dust. I might be interested in the driver's side pane. Just out of curiosity, how do the panes come out of the assembly once you remove that gasket/moulding.

Oooh, those Yup, those are my go to. Sadly, I'll have to buy a right angle drill to get into this little nook unless I figure out how to remove this bracket to throw it in the vice. Glad to see I'm on the right track, though.

Aw shucks. I appreciate the attempt, nonetheless! Sadly, I'm not on fb. And that's also a little outta my budget. For that money, I'll just drive the 400 miles to a junkyard and grab one. I appreciate the heads up, though!

Still on the hunt for one of these. Had a few bites of those with complete glass, but they've either ghosted me or are super sketchy about payment.

So if I remove that other bolt, that piece comes off? Not sure why I just assumed it was all one piece. If that's the case, I might be able to just vice grip and twist whatever is left on the other side of the hole...

Taking recommendations on how to remove this bolt that sheared while removing my power steering pump. I'm a poor soul who doesn't have access to a welder, but I do have access to the other side of the hole, so it's not so bad. Best course of action to just drill it out and use an easy out?

Glad to see the LEDs are at least compatible. I was elbow deep in power steering pump issues today, but I'll be working on this tomorrow. I'll likely go buy new bulbs, both incandescent and LED, just to rule one more thing out. I'll be able to test voltage as well. I'll report back. Thanks for all the help.

Today was a doozy. Tried to replace the power steering pump, just to resolve that leak. It's leaking from the bottom of the reservoir. Pulled the busted one out and bought a brand spanking new, not remanufactured pump from Rock auto. PN 2033776 from Ultra Power. Had to run all over town to find a loaner pulley puller from a parts store. Found one, and only realized that the new pump isn't threaded for the hardware for the belt tension bracket on the old jeep pumps. Big swing and a miss. I could have threaded it myself, but then I'd have to ream out holes, and buy new hardware. Not worth the headache. On top of that, also broke one of the rusted out screws holding the pump on. So I've gotta figure out a good way to get that out. Thankfully, I have access to both sides, but add that to the adventure. Any recommendations there would be appreciated! Just ordered a reman pump from rock auto, so we'll see if that's any better. Photos of it all below!

I tried the one of the original bulbs (the other rolled off the table and broke) that came with the euramtec. And I could not get it to function in either polarity orientation. Should I go buy another incandescent and LED, just to try? Was there anything that stood out about that LED link? With my luck, it really might just be using an incorrect LED. regarding the voltmeter, I just went back in to check for 12V because on my first pass through it, I was only getting 5. But that was operator error.

Switches work fine. I can reach down and make the courtesy light come on/off while pressing it. The truck came with no courtesy lights, so anything is an upgrade. I'm more curious what's causing the LEDs to go dim if I'm getting 12v to the wires.

So far, I've only gotten the LEDs to work, albeit dimly. Polarity didn't seem to have any effect on function. Works with all 3 wires, or two. No matter the orientation of the blk/wht and blk wire, all I get is permanent on/on with door open/permanent on. Mainly just trying to figure out the dim issue, now. I know that feeling. Can be a little nervewracking if you didn't take a look before they're fully installed and locked in.

Bit the bullet and bought a new power steering pump, as my leak is coming from the reservoir itself. Bought a new pulley and belt while I was at it, too, because they were cheap. Sadly, no parts store in town has a pulley puller available to rent. They either don't carry them or already have them out. So that'll have to wait a few more days. Redid the vacuum lines, but not many photos to show of that. I was more fighting getting my hands into narrow spaces. Filters are next. Just trying to find more of the oil I want to use. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w30 in a 5 quart jug is almost unobtainium. Kind of wild! And the cabin courtesy light saga continues. If I could get rid of the play in the steering wheel, fix my gear shift indicator, find a suitable piece of back glass, and fix these cabin lights. This thing would be a dream!