tj21

Damper Doctor failed me. They called 3 days after the order and said they didn't have any in stock, so I'd have to ship mine first. Too much time lost for them to get my business. Then I called eagle's contact, but he didn't have any luck finding my part, though he did spend time and tried. I then found a guy not far from me that I shipped it to. He wasn't cheap, but I'm ok supporting the small guys and I feel he did a quality job, and turn around time was very fast. His website here: http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm Pictures of the finished product:

Thanks for the replies. I went with damper doctor. Should have called eagle's jeep contact but they would have been closed when I ordered. Rock auto does not have a v-belt version, not listed under an '86 anyway.

I'm having a hard time finding a harmonic balance with V-belt. Anyone know where to find one? I've tried Jeep, Oreilly's, Carquest, Baxters, Autozone.

Do I need to replace my Harmonic Balancer? Rubber on both sides is cracked / damaged. Are the rubber rings replaceable?

Duster - I didn't pay much attention to this advice, but I finally looked at the distributor position while setting TDC for a timing chain replacement, and am wondering if you are on to something. Here's a picture of the pistons to verify TDC (head is currently off to get valve job and replace gasket): And here's the distributor position at same time. My finger is pointing to the mark I made at wire #1. Looks like the dist is advancing too far? How do I fix it?

Worked great, broke free easy, thanks.

Replacing my timing chain, but can't get the crankshaft bolt loose. Is there a good way to do it without an impact wrench?

Anyone have a vacuum diagram that includes this canister for my '86 2.5L? All the ones I find do not include the canister.

Thanks. I don't see any at autoparts stores, so off to the junkyard I go.

Its located behind my front bumper on passenger side on my '86 2.5L. Looks like it was damaged in a deer collision many years ago, but not sure how to replace it without knowing what's its called. It has 8953003052 printed on it.

I need a radiator as well, but radiatorbarn only comes up with one-row plastic tanks for my '86. Is that the only option for '86?

I decided to get a valve job, and it cleaned up very nice. I will also be pulling the oil pan to replace a leaky gasket. Should I put on new piston rings, since everything is torn apart anyway? I have never replaced piston rings, but thought it would be a good time to do it as a preventative measure.

VIN 1J7FT36L3KL629979 Year/Make/Model: 1989 JEEP COMANCHE PIONEER Body Style: PICKUP Engine Type: 4.0L I6 FI Manufactured In: UNITED STATES Search Results: 10 records found in our database Pick-n-Pull: North Portland I pulled: Rear Bumper Door Lock cylinders & key (ignition lock & key still there) Comanche fender logos Brake release cable Taillights

It only took a month for Pick-n-Pull to crush it. Lots of other junk cars have been sitting around a lot longer, not sure why they chose this row to demo.

My clutch problem has been intermittent. I've discovered that when the pedal gets sloppy, the clutch won't DISengage. If I play with it a while (kicking it hard), it goes back to normal. I'd assume you're right, its either the master or slave. How do I tell which one? Or do I start with the slave since its cheaper?

My fuel pressure checks good at 15 psi. Still figuring out how to do this. EGR valve was shot. It was plugged and didn't move at all. Went to the junkyard and got another that seems to slide good since new ones are $100. A new gasket won't be in until Tuesday, but I put the EGR on anyway. Now my engine idles rough, and even stalls out sometimes. It did not affect the rough start while warm (I still think this is flooding, since wide open throttle makes it start up fine). Do I need to now look for an Idle Control Valve to fix the new idle problem? Could this be linked to flooding?

I have the same problem, did you find a solution? My gauge never goes above 1/4 tank, but it works fine below that. Answering my year old question, in case someone else has this problem. My cluster was bad, and after doing a cluster swap, the fuel gauge worked properly.

My air cleaner and exhaust hoses were in bad shape. After going to several parts stores, and the dealer, I finally came up with this solution. I used a 2-3/4" water hose from NAPA for $20 and found an exhaust hose at Oreillys for $6. Both work great.

To answer my own question after finding a 2.5L cherokee in the junkyard... You need to connect an elbow to the sender so it mounts at 90 degrees different than the 4.0L engines. Here's pictures:

the higher ohms the richer fuel or if open circuit dumping!!! please add air temp sensor both can life rough !!! Thanks for the tips. I tested both the MAT Sensor and Coolant Temp Sensor and the resistance looks normal under cold / warm / hot conditions. Also tested resistance for both to the ECU connector, including ground and sensor wires, and all is perfect. Now I can move on from these two sensors. Is it possible I have a bad ECU? I did emissions test again today and my HC = 9860 (max 220 allowed) and CO = 9.1684 (max 1 allowed).

I put in a junkyard sensor but it didn't change anything. The engine runs great, except for the hard starting after its been running a while. If I restart right away while its warm, it is fine. But if it sits for a few minutes (buying gas), there is no way it will start unless I clear the fuel with full throttle. Other symptoms that are likely related: Gas mileage is poor at 10 mpg, Failed emissions test with extremely high hydrocarbons. Keep the ideas rolling.

Is the Snap-on MT2500 the diagnostic tool I need for my '86 MJ 2.5L? I'm trying to figure out my mileage problems. Thinking its either a bad sensor or throttle body adjustments needed. Is there a cheaper diagnostic scanner that would work?

4?? Holy $#!&. I thought 17 in my TJ wasn't so hot.. With gas at about $4 / gallon and my mileage at 4 mpg, it made it easy to calculate trip costs: 1 mile = $1. Failed emissions test today. 220 max hydrocarbons allowed, I came in at 4960.

Finally figured out my MAP sensor vacuum line wasn't plugged in. Put a new one on and improved my gas mileage from a consistent 4 mpg up to 10 mpg after a hilly 40 mile trip, mostly in 3rd gear. She's starting to run like a real truck now.

Thanks for the advice. I got it out using a square extractor. Just had to take another bracket off to get even better access. Not all the metal made it out though. I'll have to do a coolant flush and hope it clears everything out.