jamcomanche

Thanks! It was a direct replacement? The wiring and outlet look different, if this is the one you are talking about The retainer bracket has a specific shape where it fits around the upper connections too.

This truck has all kinds of mixed parts on it. I should have learned by now to pull the parts before I order new ones. Thanks for the help! No rush on the info. I appreciate it whenever you can get around to it.

Also just noticed, the ebay listing for this unit says 13.5 Gal haha https://www.ebay.com/itm/184914035537

Thanks for the response eaglescout. Attached a photo (it's not my unit, but is the exact unit I have). Note it has the upper adjustable retainer bracket and EFPK-3210 pump. Mine is in much worse shape

Looking for some help on compatibility with my 87 2.5. My fuel pump is on it's death bed and I had ordered a replacement US MOTOR WORKS USEP7006 which did not fit in the existing sending unit at all. The sending unit on my truck has an upper pump retainer bracket, and appears to use the EFPK-3210 pump. Not only was the US Motor Works pump inlet shorter and wider, but the unit body was too short to be secured with the retainer. I've started a return for that and in the mean time ordered a complete JPSU-6P4 sending unit from ebay because I couldnt find the JPSU-6P2.5, but I'm trying to actually figure out what the best direct replacement would be. I have been thinking that the person who owned the truck previously may have used a Cherokee sending unit, which is not listed as compatible with the MJ anywhere... Here is what I've found JPSU-6 Notes: Does not have upper pump retainer Listed Compatibility: 87 MJ 2.5 using pump EFPK-3210 87 MJ 4.0 using pump EFPK-3204 JPSU-6P2.5 Notes: Does not have upper pump retainer Listed Compatibility: 87 MJ 2.5 using pump EFPK-3210 JPSU-6P4.0 Notes: Does not have upper pump retainer Listed Compatibility: 87 MJ 4.0 using pump EFPK-3204 JCSU-8790 Notes: Has upper pump retainer Listed Compatibility: 87 XJ 2.5 using pump EFPK-3210 JCSU-8790P2.5 Notes: Has upper pump retainer Listed Compatibility: 87 XJ 2.5 using pump EFPK-3210 Does anybody out there know: 1. if there is a reason the XJ units are not listed as being compatible with the MJ? 2. if the JPSU-6P4.0 will fit and work in the 2.5? 3. the best place to purchase one of these Thanks guys!

I originally had a 74 amp CS130 in my 87 2.5 and the bearing went out. Because I have some power fluctuations with lighting and an AMP installed, I decided to upgrate to a 105 amp 8137-3N from WAI Global. After I installed it and started up the engine, the voltage on my dash immediately went into the red at or above 18 volts. After a couple of seconds, it started cutting power repeatedly so I shut it off. I disconnected the output cable from the alternator and the connector and started her again to make sure it wasnt unrelated, and it read around 10-11v on my gauge. I started a return since I assume it's a bad voltage regulator in the alternator if it's pushing out that much voltage, but then I started thinking about what else could possibly be causing it. I ordered a pigtail replacement, which ended up being a 4-wire so I needed to figure out how to wire it up. Then I started looking at wiring threads and the pinout for the 8137-3N. My previous alternator only used the 2 middle terminals on the connector ( L and I/F pins ). When I look at threads about wiring up the CS130 with a 2-pin connection (this one for example), 99% of what I found said it should be using either S+I or S+L pins. Is there any reason I would need to change from the L+I connections to the S+I or S+L connection? Would that possibly cause the high voltage output? Or am I right in thinking it's just a bad regulator in the alt? Any help with this will also help me figure out the right way to wire in the new connector. Thanks!

PM'd. Thank you!

It probably depends on the condition of your wiring and whether or not somebody had previously done any splices or wire replacement. Here is a video for removing it on an 85 cherokee looks like you would be spending a good amount of time crunched up in the floorboard moving wires over to the new block one at a time.

@JolietJEEP'84 Consider yourself PM'd - Thanks!

Looking for the under-dash fuse block in decent shape. My current block has some melted terminals from the previous owner. I don't mind if there are broken or missing connectors because I am planning to replace all the connectors. If anybody has one or knows where I could get one, I would really appreciate it

IMO Cherokee Carpet is the better buy, replacement Comanche carpet doesn't have much buffer at the back of the cab. I'd rather have too much than too little

Finally got it to post

My AC compressor stopped kicking on a week or so ago. I started troubleshooting by replacing the two relays under the hood, but it still won't kick on. I have service equipment to check the pressure, but my truck is missing service ports. I cannot find the high/low ports you see on retro-fits. Either my truck is still running an old R12 compressor somehow, or the guy I bought the truck from didn't install the system properly. I see one compression fitting on the back of the compressor that has threads on the inside of the opening. A second port has a cap screwed on. There are no other ports anywhere along so the lines. Can anybody tell me what I have here? I'm having trouble attaching photos so here's a link. https://i.imgur.com/TSywTOX.jpeg

I have the stock 87. Havent converted anything, but I'm willing to upgrade if I can find the parts.

@eaglescout526 sorry for the ping. When you have a minute would you be able to get me a part number for a genuine clutch master cylinder and tell me the best place to buy it? I put a new sachs unit on back in september that started leaking on me already.

Thanks for checking. I can get the dorman version from Oreilly's if needed. They have them in stock. Being such a trivial part, I'm sure I can get some miles out of it. Thanks a lot. I think I found an elbow that will work with my existing hoses. I will probably try it but I need to clean and reassemble my cover first.

I think I found it. Interchange Part Number: 53030591, DOR47056, 630-1093, 47056 @eaglescout526 these aren't mopar part numbers, but are they enough to help you find one?

I managed to pick up an Aluminum Valve cover from a 90s YJ but I've noticed that the air inlet looks like it takes a twist-on fitting. It's different from some of the others I've seen on here that take a regular grommet. The only elbow fittings I'm finding that twist on like this are all labeled as being for the 4.0. Also, I can't find any threads on here that go over how to convert the PCV and Breather over to work with these. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks! Now I just need to figure out how to make the bigger sender fit. I can't use the same fitting I have now. Does everybody just get their Mopar parts from the stealership? All the Mopar sites online I've managed to find only sell parts going back to 1994.

@eaglescout526 I've had an issue where my oil pressure gauge is pegged out to the right since I bought the Jeep. I bought a new single blade Oil Pressure switch to replace what was in it, but that did not fix the issue. I read somewhere on here that I should have 2 Oil Pressure Sensors, but I can only find one to the right of the distributor on my engine. I don't see one of the larger gauge senders anywhere, or even a place to put it. I noticed on Rock Auto, they list two different types of senders. A "Light" Sender like the one above, or a "Gauge" sender like the one here: Do I need to swap the smaller sender over to this one? If so, I barely have any room for it. As it is, I had to put a 90 degree fitting in the block just so I could put the smaller sender on. Otherwise the motor mount was in the way.

I'm really just here to vent so don't mind me. My jeep had the wrong alternator on it when I bought it and the serpentine belt was squeaking like crazy from misalignment. My truck has AC and the non-AC alternator pulley sticks out about 1/4" farther than the pulley matched with AC. I shopped around but wanted one quick and bought a valucraft reman CS130 from Autozone. It looked real clean when it came in. Installed nice and easy, and was charging great for a couple of weeks. One day, I heard what sounded a lot like maybe a leaf had been sucked into the blower motor. Thing was though, the blower wasnt running. The noise got louder with higher RPM. It sounded like something was being flung around inside of a tin can. I couldn't figure out what it was for the life of me and then it stopped. Days went by and then I heard it again. Except this time, I noticed that my battery voltage had started to drop on the dash. It would sit at around 13-14v usually, but it was down to about 10-11. I went out and bought a tester and checked the battery and alternator. Confirmed the alternator was charging low and then noticed these little red shards of metal scattered around the engine bay. After some time with a flashlight and squinting my eyes a lot, I realized that the centrifugal fan inside the back of the alt had splintered into a bunch of little pieces and they were being flung all over the engine bay. I'm getting a warranty replacement which I'll be inspecting the hell out of. But next time I need an alternator Ill be forking over the extra $$ for a better brand.

Thanks. I've been searching around on here about the metal covers. I've been able to find a couple beat YJ covers on ebay but they are wanting $120. I may need to dig around some salvage yards in the area. Unless you guys know a place I could find one.

Have you tried bleeding the line? BTW, If you have any fluid leaking inside the firewall at all, my advice is to go ahead and replace the master cylinder. I had a problem with a slow leak in mine, slow enough that it took a while for the reservoir to go low. After some time though I eventually started seeing puddles on the floor mat. Not to mention it drips right onto the back of the fuse panel and creeps into every terminal. Replacing the master cylinder is really not bad, and you'll have a chance to bleed the lines which may end up being exactly what you need to do. You can do it fairly quickly if you have somebody to help you manage the pedal while you bleed the line underneath. Your bleeder is on the opposite side of the tranny from where the line from the master cylinder goes into it. If you don't have somebody to help with bleeding, you can do what I've done in the past with brakes and use a board just long enough to depress the pedal and wedge it in front of the seat xD. It makes the process take a lot longer though.

This is happening to me now after putting an OEM plastic on. What garbage. Guess I'll start looking for aluminum.

87 2.5l Ive been struggling to get a replacement valve cover after mine started leaking pretty bad. I've ordered 3 plastic replacements so far. The fitment of the first was off and about 1/2" too long. The second was a Dorman that looked like it had been used with deformed bolt holes and crap all over it. I ordered one more Dorman and installed it today and it had to be pulled apart little bit to line up with the bolt holes, but it fit fine. However .. when the engine is running I can feel physical bumping on the cover with my hand. It makes a very very dull and subtle knock sound and I'm assuming the rockers are bumping the inside of the cover. When feel the head for any kind of vibrations i can't. but the cover gives off some pretty obvious bumps. As far as I know the top end is stock. Does anybody know if those vibrations are normal? Is there a taller cover I should get? This one was supposed to be direct replacement.