Huntr

It’s the Renix Engine Monitor by NickInTimeDesign. https://nickintimedesign.com/

That's what I was worried about. If they are 3.07s I'll have to also buy 2 new carriers for the gears. Dang!

Nice! Have you had any wireless connection issues?

Hello! I am once again here to ask for assistance. I have what I believe to be a factory dana 44 w/limited slip under my comanche. I am planning on re-gearing since I swapped in an ax15 and 35in tires. Couple questions: It originally had a ba10 trans paired with the 44. What was typically the stock gear ratio on these? I believe the tag says 3.07 but when the VIN was decoded it said 4.10. I can pull the cover and count teeth, but am just trying to avoid that. Is 3.07 normal on these? Are there any guides on re-gearing specifically the XJ/MJ dana 44? Most things reference the wrangler axles. Anyone have pertinent info on the specs of these axles I should be aware of when ordering parts? Thanks for the help!

I recently installed the Power Acoustik CP-71WA from Walmart in my Comanche. I saw a few posts about the radio from about a year back but didn't see any reviews after it was installed. The radio itself seems nice enough for being relatively cheap. Definitely not name brand quality, but the touch screen interface works well and is very bright. Without your phone hooked up the built in interface is responsive and logical, but no bells and whistles. I do like that it still has a built in radio tuner to listen to local stations. The install was pretty easy. I had to cut the stock trim piece about 1/8" all the way around in order to fit the unit. I wanted to mount it with the display sitting in front of the hole so I cut the trim to only fit the body of the radio, with the screen bezel sitting in front. I had to modify the mounting bracket slightly to accommodate for this. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures while installing it. Only cons I've found so far is that the wireless CarPlay tends to randomly disconnect and reconnect. I haven't tried to troubleshoot yet but I'm guessing its just really poor range with the wireless connection and/or interference from behind my dash. Using wired CarPlay through the rear USB connection on the radio seems to work great. I'll report back after a few weeks use if any problems come up. Right now I'd recommend it for someone who wants CarPlay but doesn't want to figure out a double din solution.

My time in Tucson has come to an end. Had a good time getting the Comanche out for a few more drives before putting it into storage for the next year. Hopefully the weather is good to her while I’m away.

Lifted the front using the Metal Cloak True Dual Rate Coils, 4.5" and CavFab Alpha 3 link. Also have the CavFab track bar and track bar drop bracket. Fox reservoir shocks in the front are working well. I'm now running Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear (part #33-104652). The fox shocks weren't long enough and were at full extension over every bump making it a rough ride. The Bilstein's have been a huge improvement so far.

Lifted the rear 4.5". Then stuffed the 35's underneath. I'm using Fox reservoir shocks from my old XJ. The rear's aren't really long enough for the spring under setup. I'll have to move the shock mounts or get longer shocks. Also need to lengthen the rear brake line. Next up will be throwing the Cav Fab 3 link on the front to level it out.

Just got a set of JL wheels and tires to throw on the Comanche. The tires are 35x12.5R17, stock backspacing on the JL wheels I believe to be 6.1". I am trying to decide what size adapters/spacers to run to avoid rubbing the rear frame and front control arms at full turn. What backspacing are people running 35" tires with? I am between either 2" spacers putting me at 4" BS, or 3" spacers putting me at 3" BS. If I could find a 2.5" spacer/adapter I would consider running that. Thanks!

Also got a pretty killer deal on 5 JL wheels with basically brand new KO2 35 12.5R17 tires on them. I need to figure out what the backspacing on the factory 17 JL wheels is and order some adapters. Not sure what backspacing to shoot for on the Comanche.

Well the Black Friday deals got me… just ordered a Cavfab Alpha 3 link, track bar, and track bar drop bracket. I just couldn’t pass up the 20% off. So naturally I had to figure out fender flares. I decided to go with fiberglass flares in the front. I’m in SoCal for the holiday and conveniently all of the major fiberglass companies are based here. After calling around, the only manufacturer with any stock was Hannemann. Very nice gentleman who even offered to deliver the flares to me for free! Also decided to try out his hood, we’ll see if I like the look.

The technique in the video you sent worked pretty well. The problem was the outer seal was glued in by someone incredibly well. There was no getting it out of parts of the window. The parts that still had the outer seal cut extremely slow with the wire method. Using a long razor blade to score those areas repeatedly helped when the sawing wasn't making progress. Also, having two people would have made it much easier.

Well that was miserable. Removing the rear window took hours. The outer seal was glued in incredibly well. There was no saving it. Finally managed to get the window out, passenger window regulator, and door check. Definitely don’t want to have to do that again…

Awesome thanks!!!!

Dang… I’m literally about to start to try and remove it haha. I need a new back window. Any tips?

It’s on the base but I have access. I’ve been meaning to check out Pima air and space. Damn you boys really picked through this one!

Haha coming from Wichita Falls this place is SIGNIFICANTLY better. Plus Davis Monthan is a fairly nice base. I’m just glad I showed up in the fall!

Awesome! We’ll have to meet up at some point and talk jeeps! I could use some pointers on the local area.

Spent the last few weeks moving to Tucson AZ. Finally had some time to get a few things done on the Comanche. Added interior lights so now I can see in the cab at night! Ordered part # A-7180-BC. Lights were just slightly wider then the existing whole requiring a bit of Dremel work. Wish they had a tan color but black will do. Also fixed my transfer case linkage. I replaced it with one of the heim joint linkages. I had trouble getting it to fit. I was forced to remove the locknuts from the threaded rod in order to get it short enough to cycle through 2H, 4H, N, 4L. The lack of locknuts may cause the linkage to change size over time, I added red loctite to try and slow that down. Also started polishing the chrome wheels to see how clean I could get them. The two front ones turned out alright. The rears are much more rusted and I doubt I'll be able to fix the damage.

Right on the money. The elbow went out on the fuel pump unit. I opted to replace the pump while I was in there. Honestly probably wasn’t the right thing to do since the Bosch pump that’s in there is probably higher quality. I’ll hang on to the old pump just in case. I had to modify the bracket to fit the Precision pump. Also replaced the pick up and fuel filter while I was at it.

Pulled the regulator. Looks fine. Seems to hold pressure okay. Hooked a line up from the return side of the fuel rail and primed the pump. Nothing returning from the rail. Now it’s most likely clogged fuel filter or pump. Leaning towards pump.

About a month ago I decided to take the Comanche to work. I got about 2 blocks from the house before it just randomly shutoff. I haven’t had a chance to get around to diagnosing until this weekend. I was originally concerned it was something to do with the valves or cam. It would crank just fine but barely catch and make really odd stumbling sounds as it tried to fire. I checked the compression on all the cylinders and they were all within spec. With the ignition coil disconnected it sounds completely normal while turning over. I next threw a fuel pressure tester on the fuel rail and am showing around 1-2 psi when I prime the engine… :) I now need to determine if it’s a fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump. I’m leaning toward regulator right now. The pump sounds fine when I prime it and after about 6-9 seconds of priming I can hear fuel spray back into the mostly empty tank from the return line. I’m guessing the regulator is just stuck full open. Does anyone know of a good way to diagnose this? Can anyone identify what generation fuel pressure regulator this is? The fuel rail is off a newer Jeep in order to match the new horseshoe intake. I just don’t remember what year.

I’d be interested in that junkyard for XJ’s. I’ll check it out when I get up there. Do you know the name?

What’s the local area look like in terms of scrap yards with XJs and MJs? I’d like to find a replacement dash since mine is cracked along with a manual window regulator and such. I’ll be out in AZ starting in November and am hoping to be able to find parts.

As I’m piecing together what I plan to do in terms of lift, axles, etc, I’m trying to decide how I want to lift the rear. I’ll need to look into what everyone else does but is it typical to swap to a spring over axle? I’d like to keep the stock Dana 44 and potentially the stock springs. I need to check out their condition. Definitely not as many options for read leaf springs like the Cherokees have.