driveslowsnackoften

Their site says would ship Mar 15th, Morrison told me on the phone start/mid April as well. I did just see though the 3.5" Superflex without shocks is available right now from Quadratec. A while back a friend had suggested the way to go was buying shocks separately anyhow so going to mull this over a bit.

Now if I can just find someone with the kit in stock.....

Great, this clears some things up. As the condition of the current springs is unknown and I'm willing to pay for ease of install going to go for the full kit. Thanks for the input everyone.

Can anyone say if the Dana 44 was an addition or is it part of 'PACKAGE - 4X4 PROTECTION' ?

1988 4.0 4x4 Long Bed with Dana 44 Metric Ton(?) Purchased in Redding, CA (Sept 2020) now located outside Nevada City.

According to PO yes, but he also thought it had a Dana 35 but far as I can tell it's actually 44.

I've pretty well decided which version I'm going with, the 3.5" Super-Ride (RE602x) but I'm not sure which option makes the most sense between the Add-a-Leaf and entire new leaf sprints. The truck is an 88' Long Bed with a D44, so I'll have to add the RE1225 u-bolts for sure, and I think the -T variation makes sense unless better shocks can/should be purchased separately. What other considerations/parts should I know about?

I had awful gas mileage until I realized I had knocked the vacuum line out of the MAP sensor. Was like flipped the Fixed/Broken switch. Maybe give that line a looking over.

Yeah good call, I've got the filter and gasket already so should just go ahead with it. Also, just to say aloud, I have a JeepCables replacement kit I keep procrastinating installing.

So it looks like the second flush has made a huge improvement. I made a near repeat of the last trip (~15mi ~2000ft total gain) without a definitive slip. There were a couple places where I felt like it should have shifted but didn't and maybe feeling like this was improving? that might be just being hopeful though. And being that I am feeling hopeful, I am going to flush a third time before trying to push a further trip.

Welp, I've done a second flush and need to run into town so I'll see how it goes. If it does slip again I'll proceed with testing the TCU.

Another things, despite the fluid being near black and smelling like death, it was free of metal. I ran a magnet through the catch pan, and besides the pan thread* there was no metal flake. * Seems previous owner took the liberty of stripping all the pan bolts for me.

Update from work yesterday. Dumped just under 3 quarts of ATF that smelled of burnt roadkill and replaced with 4qt. Not having enough to do another complete dump figured it would be good to drive into town to recirculate, get more, flush again. I took the hill route, so if it were to slip, it would leaving the house instead of getting stuck coming home. Seemed to handle it no problem, as with the next couple small hills. But on the return trip it noticeably slipped, with the engine revving up twice, then complete lack of power on the same hills on the prior trip. I'm going to check out the TCU/computer today and see if that turns anything up and wanted to add a couple more details I've noticed/might be relevant. * The truck has a broken Power/Comfort swtich, I don't' know what position its in, the rocker is cracked and just moved freely. * Last night when I had to pull over, shifting into 3 or 2-1 did nothing but then coming back to D drove like it was fine, for a minute or two at least. Same with turning the car off/on.

Yeah, I've read the dip tube is difficult and prone to breaking....

fwiw, the whining wasn't super loud and it sounded more like it was coming from the engine, though I could have just been focusing on that... Additionally, if the pump had been totally dead would I have felt that once driving on the flats? I ask because once I let it sit for 5min or so it drove fine.

It's just at the add line, smells awful, dark brown. I light of realizing the radiator reservoir had been empty, could the low level of transmission fluid led to overheating?

Another detail I've just recalled, the first odd thing I noticed before the total power loss was it not seeming to want to shift into the next gear.

If there was a loss of RPM, it wasn't super significant. But I wasn't moving, in fact, I rolled backwards at the worse point. Things I've checked, the good. * Yes I heard the pump prime * Yes, there is fuel pressure * Yes there is transmission fluid Things I checked, the bad I am out of radiator fluid and just now realized when I check underneath, there significant amount of some liquid around the underside of the engine and in my tired state, I think looked at the windshield fluid instead of the radiator. Could overheating cause loss of power like this? If so guess my dash lights need going over....

Oops, meant to include that as it's the part the really scares me.... auto.

So I've been meaning to post in general for a while about a couple particular problems, but generally I end up figuring them out. But this most recent has me a bit nervous. After driving about 140 miles, on my home stretch, coming up a hill, I completely lost power. So much so that when trying to crest this hill, I was rolling backwards. I popped the hood and nothing was obvious, I'd fixed the MAP sensor vacuum line the week before but it was fine. I bring this up because it seems a lot of loss of power questions end up being the MAP sensor. After a few minutes I just tried again and it got me further up the hill but it happened again. Sit, trying again and thankfully I got to the flat. Interestingly the engine sounded fine until the point of power loss, then high whiny revving. Specs... '88 Renix 4.0L 4x4 -- Morgan