pamike

if i were to put an aussie locker in my rear d44, would the whole carrier need to be removed? i was told that some axles didn't require removal of the carrier for an aussie install and all i would have to do is pull my axle shafts.

i did some more searching and found a writeup on it. i got my cluster in and it's working good so far. here's a pic Image Not Found

i got one but the odometer reads 130,000 and mine is 179,000. how do i get the new one to match. i know i can connect a drill to it but that would take a while. is their a way to swap just the odometer numbers to the new cluster? or take it apart and move the numbers to where i need them

i have a set of front shocks off my 88 comanche. what years of cherokee and comanche will these fit on?

is their some kind of rev limiter on my truck? if not it would not make sense to not put in a tack from the factory. the amc logo in the bottom left lights up when the fuel is low here you go Image Not Found

even if my cluster i have now has gauges for the temp, oil press., and volts? or do you mean that i would have to swap only if i had all idiot lights. i have all other gauges in my cluster except for the gas gauge being where the tack should be.

my 88 comanche doesn't have a tack in the dash it just has a big fuel gauge where the tack should be. if i grab another gauge cluster with the gauges i want as long as it's from a 6 cyl jeep like mine, will it plug in? do i have the wiring allready there for everything to plug in? i really got interested in this when i found a jeep at the local junk yard with about the same mileage on it. this way my odometer will still be correct.

http://williamsport.craigslist.org/cto/1986845381.html

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/wan/1965784846.html

That is exactly what they are designed to do. They are not meant to give you any lift - at least not much. They are designed to give you more load capacity. We made them so that the folks who were cutting the eyes off of XJ springs wouldn't have to do that. -Tom thats the reason i bought them, i wanted more load capacity without lifting the truck. but when i found the 3" coils at the junkyard for $10 each i couldn't pass them up. i now have them on my truck and the front sets higher. i am now thinking about throwing in a 2-3" aal in addition to the hellcreek aal to level the truck out but i don't need the whole lift kit. i drove the truck around with the stock lca's and it drives just fine.

i should have took my camera and got a pic but i didn't think of it. what i'm thinking of doing is just putting the coils and shocks on the front and take it for a drive and see what happens. i have a subaru for a daily driver so i'll still have transportation until i can get the lca's.

all i know is they definitly werent stock. they were square fully boxed. and i'm not 100% sure but i think they had poly bushings. the shocks i pulled off said trailmaster on them. so maybe a trailmaster lift. after beating on the bolt for over an hour we gave up. the one that i did get off i stashed under the seat so if i can find a battery powered sawzall to borrow i'll just cut the bolt on both sides. i took a measuring tape with me and i measured them and compared them to an xj that was setting nearby, i got the same measurement. i currently have a hellcreek long aal under my truck. i put it in when i swaped in the d44. my truck sets level. i got no lift from it. all it did was stiffen up the springs.

now the only other question i have is, where can i get a aal or aal and shackle for the rear. the 3" rough country kit comes with coils shocks and aal's so i'm assuming i'll get the lift i want from some RC aal's. where can i get just aal's without buying the whole kit?

i found a comanche with about a 3" lift on it. i got the coils, shocks and tried to get the lca's but i couldn't get the right side frame bolt out. i measured the lca's and they measured the same as the stock ones. will i be able to run the coils and shocks with my stock lca's? i really don't see any difference in them other than strength.

what jeep is the zj and which is the wj, i'm not familiar with the newer jeep terminology. how strong (or weak) is the d44hd compared to the d35 or 8.25? so theirs no special tools and it's fairly easy to pull the shaft? the place we are going to is about 1.5 hours away from me and i don't want to get there and not have the tool i need. are the right and left shafts different?

my brothers jeep was making some noises in the rear end and we found out the right rear axle shaft is bad. in the area where the bearing goes, the shaft is pitted and worn. i don't know if it was because of the bad bearing or not? anyway, it has the d44 with the aluminum housing in it. it's a v8 with full time 4x4. does anyone know what years of jeep had this axle? was it only the v8's. most of the junk yards want to sell us the whole axle but we only need the shaft. if i can find the shaft, how hard is it to pull the shaft vs. the whole axle. his has a abs ring on the shaft and rear disk brakes.

one more question (i think) is it better to try to remove the axle nut and seperate the hub and shaft or just let them together while changing the u-joint?

you will need your shaft shortened. even with my axle at full droop with my truck sitting on jack stands my shaft wouldn't fit into the truck. i had it shortened exactly 1" and the slip yoke is in about the same spot it was. i don't think the driveshaft will need to be lengthened at 3.5 " of lift. the only way your stock shaft will work is if you put enough lift on your truck to make up the 1" difference

cool, thats what i wanted to hear. thanks

i got the axle in :D . i had to take my shaft to the 4x4 shop. it cost me $150 to get it done. i also put in a set of hellcreek mj long aal's. i got no lift but it did stiffen up the springs. i also painted it black, i don't think it turned out bad, i used krylon spray paint. before after

i just noticed my u-joints have alot of slop in them. after i take the hub assy. apart do the shafts slide out or do i have to pull the cover and take c clips out. i have the CAD so does the vac shifter assy have to be taken off? i've had my front axle apart before but i can't remember it's been a while.

i called the local shop that rebuilds alt. starters etc. and i'm glad i did. i found out that a friend of mine thats big into amc's and jeeps works there. i've got him parts for his jeep in the past from where i work for cheap. anyway he told me to drop it off tomorrow and he would rebuild it for free so hopfully by tomorrow i'll have a free alt to drop back in the truck.

i was told their were different amp ratings depending on if the jeep had ac or not. is this true. will they still interchange. i do know advance auto parts web site shows 2 different amp ratings.

the alt. in my truck quit on me. i can probably pick up one at the local junk yard for cheap. i think my one idler pully is going bad to so i'll grab one of them to. so my question is, my truck is a 88 with a i-6 what other years of comanche and cherokee alt. will work in my truck. will 4 cyl ones work?

i have a little more to add to this. i messed around with the shifter while the truck was cold and it was fine. it didn't spring back only after driving it for a while when the truck was warmed up. the fluid is good, i changed it about a month ago.