Huntingman2706217

Was there ever a determination on if the VINs even played a roll in these?

Haven't been logged in since at least 2013 since I had a message from a guy about some parts he wanted off a mj I parted out 🤣. Anyways I posted on fb looking for a street MJ for sale. About to do a built LS3 stroker in my current and wanted to try and find one once again. This guy contacted me said he may sell his but isn't posting it publicly. If this TJ I have sells today I may go get it. Although this makes me question the authenticity basically. I asked him what number it was and pic of the tag now that I've seen this. We shall see. It does seem like the tag was just lost in the restoration if it's no longer on it.

Its really not that weak... i mean i jump in and out of the sides like crazy... stepping on them and everything... no issues... i hit the back right top corner on a rock and it didnt move the whole bed side... it did dent the sheetmetal though... if it was weak it would have pushed it in... Also my ammo boxes are mounted to the back bedside and the floor so that probly helped there... my beds not beat up on the inside to bad... for its life its had a thick rubber mat so its near perfect other than a little surface rust... when i get back in march and am done welding stuff to it I'm gonna have it lineX'd as well... i wanna try and keep the fender look to it but will be hard with a air shock in there... may have to build a tube flare with a hole for the shock or something... Thank yas!

ha what up man... you coming to get this skid or not? I'm about to list it on here with some other things... sometime today i hope... i got some other stuff you may want and can make ya a deal on all of it if you come get it..

Thanks yas... its a wrap actually and they are NOT as easy to put on as YouTube says... lol... least not on bubble fenders and your first time trying... lol...

my rear bumper was setup for a bed side also so i need to chop the ends off... i JUST had them lineX'd before this past weekend so i couldnt bring myself to do it... well i tore most that off this weekend so i don't mind so much... just gonna have to wait till next spring... i think if I'm gonna do that I'm gonna go ahead and raise it up flush with the bottom of the beds inside since theres no low bed to cover anymore and if i shorten the bed then itll be even easier.... the bumpers custom made for a XJ actually but i built new brackets so i could mount it to my MJ... works great!

So the plan was Rustys front fenders and bedsides... i had my buddy go ahead and cut off my bedsides and do my fenders while i was still in Afghan... 2.5 months after ordering everything i had still only gotten the front fenders... by this time i was home and had Jeeptoberfest in Ocala FL to make it to so i got tired of excuses on why the bedsides arnt at my house yet and waiting so i canceled my order and decided to go a different rout. After staring it down for some time this is what i came up with... i may not be the first to do this but it is what it is... At the ride everyone was asking where i got the bed from and didnt believe me when i told them it was the inner bed... Tail lights are military LED tail lights made by TruckLite... very good quality and very easy to mount on any flat surface... why the wrangler guys don't all have them i don't know as they should be a direct screw on for them... just gotta be wired in... I put mine in ammo cans which of course double as storage... I took the money from the bedsides and got a rogue bender... i will be tubing the bed the way you see it... basically outlining it with DOM and above the tires will become my airshock hoop for my sterling 10.50 thats going in it this spring when i get back from Afghan again... I may also shorten up the back of the bed since i couldnt seem to keep it off the rocks this past weekend... easy to do when linked... but i need to decide before i tube everything... questions or specific pic requests are cool with me also...

Also if you look at the OEM FSJ cherokees brush guards they are near identical... id guess they are the same thing but a larger version...

I know this is old as dirt... but figured for anyone searching they will find my pics as well... dealer or factory to me its all the same... "jeep" or whoever still made and sold them... kinda like the rock sliders you can buy today for the WK2 as you buy it off the lot... my 90 MJ had all these options... front hooks... full skids front to rear... fog lights... D44 (not a metric ton)... and only thing i know it didnt come with "offroad" wise was the roll bar... though i guess i havent pulled the whole rubber mat up since i got it to look for holes... however i would say they were all factory options that could also be bought at a dealer by the dealer or anyone for that matter... i don't see the dealers swapping in headlight harnesses to get fog lights... just doesnt make sense... same for the brush guards... i agree with that thread the OP here read on another site... they all said they were ugly... ya kinda... but the XJ's and MJ's really arnt the prettiest vehicles in general... kinda cool to have one though knowing they are hard to come by... the bottoms of my square tubing is rusted all to heck so I'm not sure if i can save mine but I'm going to try and repair/rebuild it... i have 97+ conversion now so it may look even weirder but maybe since the bottom is rotted out i can fab it onto a steel winch bumper or something... if it looks horrible ill sell it off to a renix goo roo or something... lol... pics that i have for the sake of others googling!!!

Wow... that's a confusing listing... LOL... ill have to check it out again later... lol

yeah i looked and none of that other stuff i got will work... I'm just gonna find some real short shocks for alittle while and once its up and running... painted... and everything else is finished up ill grab a 8.8 and ruff stuff's axle swap... i got there kit for my XJ and its BEEF... love it... worth the money...

with keeping the plates on the bottom you would need longer shocks then right? well heck... the parts XJ had 4.5in of lift and i never pulled the rear shocks... that would probly work great...

odd?? my shock plate was my ubolt plate? ill probly just stick real short ones in there for now... it was a SOA but it was done on a D35... heck i got the parts manche for $300 so why not ride it out for a bit? but eventually ill probly swap in a 8.8 and then ill worry about shock tabs and such later... i hope to be running a 360 anyways in about a year or so... sooner i hope but probly a year... lol... althought i should have the u bolt plate from my 97 parts XJ laying somewhere in the pile of crap in the back of it... maybe if I'm really really lucky i could use my buddys 2010 tacomas OEM u bolts with the square instead of rounded curve... the OEM shock mounts on the bottom of the axle still and the XJ's plates at the top... that would be nuts if it actually worked but I'm sure it won't and id be spending more money... lol... oh well...

did you need another plate to still go up top for the u bolts?

Cause I bought a parts mj with the soa already done... had shocks like yours above... then I swapped It into mine and just got around to the shocks and realised its not gonna work... LOL... I can weld... just didn't know if there was another option first...

Anybody do anything to get shocks in without new tabs? Maybe found a small car shock that fits in there? Mines not going Offroad so not worried about flex... just normal driving... thanks!

RockAuto was the one! i could tell by there pics... the ends are the same and the metal sleeve in the middle for the clamp to the upper control arm bolt... thats it!! Thanks abunch man... i was freakin out cause i want to get my dash put back together... thanks again!!

There is no difference between the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder speedometers. There IS, however, a difference between the early (thru 86, and maybe part-way into '87) speedo and the '87 thru '90 speedo. The early type has a metal end on the cable that attaches to the speedo head with a screw. The later type has a white nylon end on the cable and it just snaps over the fitting on the speedo head. mine just snaps in and out... well it did till the plastic broke... lol... i know there "shouldnt" be a difference between 4 and 6 cylinders... but thats what there computer came up with... the one it "showed" for the 4 banger was half the length of my stock one... and the into 94 it says there is two cables that connect to each other... heck i dunno... ill check that out above man thanks! Travis

I went to oreillys and they gave me one for a 4 Banger that didn't even plug into the cluster... took it back and didn't list one for a I6... so he called the dealer... discontinued... where the crap can I get one? 89 Comanche... 4x4... ax-15... 231... short bed... thanks again!

Cool thanks man... when I get to the laptop ill try it out...

have a spare 97 XJ ive been using for parts... i pulled all the trim off today and was playing around with it... figured out a way to run it on a MJ short bed real easily... to dress things up a bit!!... hers what i needed... 4- back door trim 2 left and 2 right 4- front door trim 2 left and 2 right 2 front fender trim 1 left and 1 right i used 2 front door trims on the front doors 2 fender trims on the fenders... there are obvious i used two of the rear doors before the back wheel and behind the cab with the indention facing forward or rear is up to you... just swap left with right... some have fender flares and want to trim so i would trim off the sides with the indention... i used the other to back doors between the back wheen well and bumper... this i ran the indention on the bumper side to kinda hide it behind the bumper but again if you gotta trim for fender flares then just rotate left to right... the hard part is getting trim right behind the doors on the cab... the fender trim is to short to use... so my plan since I'm going to be having body and paint done soon is to cut the two ends off the extra set of front door trim... put them together at the proper length stick them on and bondo over the crack down the middle... no big deal... for those of you not doing paint anytime soon i would just cut the front part off leaving the small hole towards the bed and less noticable... or not use one at all... some trucks come without from the factory like this.... I'm not sure if anyone else has done this but i havent seen it... so figured id pass the word just incase!! i do have pics and forgot i still don't know how to make them work here without some other stupid website so if anyone wants to transfer them over feel free... and ill try and edit the link back out of this thread... pics are at the bottom of the page... thanks! http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/projec ... post626265

made a test thread at CF for this... here's the pics... the drivers side which is electric looks like the easier side... its the pass that i messed with alittle... you can see where i made a small cut and then bent them flat... this lowered the front down some but not alot... you can see how the rears are made and there not gonna be fun... i may just cut the brackets out completely and use some scrap 1x1 square tubing instead... i can gridn the brackets down flush at the bottom and drill holes for the bracket rivets in the 1x1 so i don't have to take them out and everything else fall apart... and ill also be able to bolt through the 1x1 easily... i can use the 1x1 kinda like block from front to back in a stair pattern since the front will be about an inch higher then the rear anyway... this will also allow me to be able to get to the bolts easier if i make them sticking out from the seat some to bolt it down since the seat will be so low... http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f23/test-s ... post622784

yeah i can't figure it out... i need to go find a how to on here for it still... anyways your seats don't sit up to high? if i was to use the bracket from the 97+ then my seats would still be up high and i can't even get in? my head hits the top of the door and i just don't fit through unless i go head first which sucks... lol