donald.wade3

They were still together with that pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can separate them into the 4 separate ones Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick question. That might help. Running a multimeter on the starter relay, should I pull 12.4ish v on the Ballast resistor terminal with ignition on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So maybe not. Here is the underside of the relay group. With the red wire I was talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

According to this is for the diode module whatever that is. I could be wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update. Pulled all relays(5) from engine bay. Bench tested for activation as well as OHMs. All tested between 74-78.5 ohms. Cleaned relay connections and wires. Pulled the looms back on driver side, from the relay harnesses that goes to the firewall to the fuse block and the one that goes to the oxygen sensor heat relay. I checked and cleaned the wire for the Ballast on the starter relay. Cleaned up and made new connections where had been spliced previous. Couple spliced wires that make no sense. E fan is pulling power from grey plug attached to EGR connector. But only comes on when key is on, AND with the hot wire from Fuse block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This one has no trace. It runs back to the oxygen sensor heater relay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed. Now to figure out what all goes where. And try to put it back together. I think the issue is the red wire that runs that loom back to the pass side isn’t getting power and red is usually pos Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While digging a little further found this cluster of crap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate all your help with this. Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I’m just going to hook everything back up the way it was and redo the e fan to a relay and switch. They were connected on the same circuit somehow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Initially the ballast was bypassed. But I want to add a level of protection for piece of mind with a relay. I want to take the power off the ignition switch and out of the fuse block. I’ve been stranded 2times, both with the fuse block and the circuits inline with the hot wire to the “bypass” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the ballast is bad can I option for this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Removed he power wire from the 2 orange and black wires for the Ballast. Connected them to the ballast an no start. No fuel. Did the relay dance with the 4 next to the battery. Still no start. So the next question is, is the ballast bad? Everything works with the bypass. All the connections look good and the ones that were questionable were cleaned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will give it a once over tomorrow. The PO has this thing all crazy wired. Just trying to figure it all out. I do appreciate the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So that would sort of explain why the Truck shut off while driving on the hwy several months ago. I lost radio, wipers, signals, and interior lights. Just overload on the ignition switch. I replaced that with new and replaced the fuses and everything was good than. I did try to pull each relay with the truck on with no change. What is the the BAL terminal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am running a 15a fuse in the radio slot. The red wire it the ACC hot for the fuel pump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe I am. I can check a little later. Away at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Either way as it sits I would still like to have some sort of protection. I’ve just replaced both the ignition and headlight switches thst had partially melted the harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I remember correctly, nothing. I believe the PO ran the red wire to the fuse block in the cab to the acc port for power possibly when they did the swap or had issues with the ballast and just bypassed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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About: 89 SWB Pioneer, auto, 96/97 HO with all Renix components to include harness. Things I’ve done so far, open cooling system, several ground refreshes, replaced fuel filter, o2 sensor, replaced spark plugs, replaced PS pump, VC, Oil pan, RMS gaskets, cleaned TB, IAC, TPS,gauge cluster swap, headlight relay harness and bed lined the interior and redid the headliner. Where I am now is the comanche has been sitting for a little while. It has started dieseling. So I’ve decided to run it hard for a few times and try to clean some carbon out. But before that I want to redo the fuel pump relay. The PO has hardwired it with a hot wire from the ACC pin on the fuse block. Bypassed the ballast and wired in the efan to a vac harness. The question is which orange and black wire is from the ECU and which one goes to the pump. One of them will trigger the pump with the key on the other one does nothing. I have messed with the OEM relay and nothing happens. It doesn’t die or stall. Thoughts are to run a stand-alone relay in place and run a fuse to the battery, then connect to the wires I have exposed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I have the idiot lights with no tach. Just the fuel gauge. This is one I’m going to look into for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I can go find a cluster from 87/88-90 preferably from 6cyl and it will bolt right up and everything connects plug and play? How does the tach receive the rpm signal, through the distributer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk