donald.wade3

So what I’ve done. Tested D pins. All tested same as above. I’ve pulled hazard/stop fuse. Put in dome fuse, no issue. Put in haz/stop fuse. No issue since. Until next time dome fuse blows. I did disconnect pass side dome switch that was missing the rubber bushing. Just want to keep this one going Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will check it as soon as I finish the tail lights and cleaning the old crap out and putting new dielectric grease. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I posted it on all things Comanche on Facebook as well and someone confirmed it is the turn signal/hazard harness. At this point who knows what all I have and where. I did at some point have brake lights and all go out and changed the fuse. But I have the had the left turn signal light stay on before with the headlights. So I checked that and it seemed to be slightly loose. Well the plastic harness connector was broke in half. So either I’m going to order a new harness connector or go to pull a part one pull one out. I’m wondering if that is what was causing my 12v circuit on that fuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it does have a battery in it. Do you know what this harness is? My guess is turn turn signal/hazards? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Continuity just the cont light. The 12v it lights up to the 12v mark. Using this light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All of my sockets look like this on the back. I’m the process of cleaning them out and using dielectric grease Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So would that mean I have a short in the tail lights somewhere for it to be 12v with the key off and not on the pedal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So tested test light POS in pin NEG on battery(-) D1-5 no continuity- key off red wire in. D1-5 no continuity-key off red wire out. D2-4 12v with key on red wire out D2-4 continuity when key off red wire out D1-6 continuity key off red wire out D1-6 same continuity key on red wire out I also tested the circuit on the fuse block with test light. Top row of pins have continuity second row of pins I have full 12v on HAZ/STOP with key off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will be doing this today. Have been super busy the last couple days with other projects around the house. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will do. If I don’t get to it today I will get it tomorrow. I appreciate all your help for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will do. Today. Have to get new light tester and multimeter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just tried to put a new fuse in with the truck off and it popped as soon as it made contact. Twice. Once with the it off and once with it on. The driver door was open. Trying to put them in the dome slot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So currently I am running the fuel pump hot wire from the fuse block. Powered when key is on. This morning I have added an inline fuse with a 20amp fuse. In the previous pic of the fuse block, the wire the PO used for the fuel pump power is the upper red one that goes from the block to the ballast bypass wires spliced together. If that makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah they all seem pretty odd. I am trying to figure out the PO mess and butchering of the wiring. The radio doesn’t come on with the key off. It is strange for that to be happening though. I have also decided to add an inline fuse on my power wire for the fuel pump for now. Just to be safe for the time being. Haven’t had any problems with it really. Just everything around that pin. The lower wire is for the switch on the dash for the fan. With an inine mini fuse. One thing I have noticed as well, while trying to figure all this out, is that on some of the open pins that should be open, only one side it open, even with a fuse in to complete the circuit. Maybe I’m doing it wrong but that is testing with both a multimeter and add a fuse piggyback with 2 fuses Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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-MJJM61-1989 Jeep Comanche 4WD SWB-Pioneer -Auto w/ overdrive behind 4.0 (96 block/head and Renix everything else) -no sticker with build date, however originally purchased 31Dec1988 in Marietta, Ga. -Currently based in Adairsville, Ga. About 40 miles north of Marietta, Ga -On the road as much as I can get it there. Love driving this truck -Original paint was Dark Baltic Metallic with bucket recline seats. Previous owner changed color and went to bench seat. Have JKR wheels and tires installed with a small spacer lift from PO. Still have original window sticker, owners manual as well as the original purchase invoice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For those reading. Installed a stand alone switch with relay for the e fan. Ran the Comanche this morning, and it ran great. No dieseling or any issues. Oil pressure hovered around 40psi and temp never got above 210. Low fuel light works. The only thing now is the dome light fuse keeps popping. How are the circuits ran on the fuse block? With the dome fuse blowing it caused my radio to go out. Radio fuse is good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I have determined the clicking for the ac clutch was caused with the power jumper wire the PO used for the efan to the egr harness. Took that out and now no efan but no ac clutch click with key on and off. However there is a click on the ac clutch relay as well as the power latch relay. Couple clicks when I turn key to on. Normal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So while looking in the mess yesterday there was a wire in that harness that was stripped back wrapped in e tape. I ended up cutting it and doing a bit connector on it. I believe it was an orange w/tracer wire. Could that be part of the issue I’m having if it’s running for the AC clutch? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I disconnect that harness it does the same thing. Click on key on not start and click a second or 2 after turn key off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t do anything with that harness except put a butt connector where someone has stripped the wire back Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So that would explain why the ac clutch is now clicking. When It never did it before what did I screw up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So another update. Wired everything back up as previously done. Loomed everything and taped everything. Especially connections with butt connectors. Now when I turn the key over the fuel pump will prime as before, the efan will turn on as before but now my AC clutch engages. Even when pulling the ac clutch relay it still does it. Didn’t do this before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thinking about just rewriting like it was for the fuel pump and add the efan on its own circuit. With toggle switch and relay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk