SoCalManche

Yes, all grounds are squeaky clean. Yessir, I've done those as well as most of the other tips as well (if they are applicable to '86 2.5L)

The odds of a sensor going bad right when I swap the plugs? Damn, I need to play the lottery!

I'm just trying to figure out why it decided to start running normal under load for about a mile until it went back into idle and then back to rich/open loop. I've been scratching my head for a couple weeks.

My bad. Champion Copper Plus.

Can't say that I have. How much ATF should be thrown in? Side note - you don't think that seafoam treatment broke up a bunch of carbon and now that's wreaking havoc in the head?

CTS is fairly new, I'll have to check tomorrow. Same with compression, I will have to try to check it tomorrow. As for the plugs that came out, they were fouled pretty good, but I chalked that up to the seafoam treatment I threw into the throttle bottle (stalling it on purpose and whatnot).

Need expert eyes on this one; I think the head is done but I may be overthinking since I saw that being the cause of a similar issue for someone else. The ol' girl has started running a little louder than normal, seems there's some extra chatter coming from the head/valve cover. Left it alone since her smog this year was actually even more pristine than her smog from last year (no idea how). Well, she chewed up and spit out another alternator, which is a completely different story, but once I replaced it, and the sparkplugs as well, she now will not go into closed loop, and will run rich the entire time. Prior to changing the spark plugs, REM showed O2 sensor running properly (flipping back and forth between rich/lean), and went into closed loop accordingly. I was forced to drive the MJ to work a couple days later and its the only time the REM started showing the flip of rich/lean and closed loop until I came to stoplight; once she went back to idle as I stopped, went directly to rich and open loop condition; drove it once or twice more, and it didn't happen again. - I have three O2 sensors that all test within proper ohms (~5-7ohms?) - Nothing else was touched when replacing my blown alternator besides the spark plugs - When back-probing the engine-side harness to O2 sensor, I can get battery voltage to show, but can't get the other voltage number to read, 5V I think? (sorry, it's been a couple weeks since I've scoured all the other forums on this topic) - She starts up just fine, just won't pop into closed loop or pop out of rich condition. Thoughts?

Hey there guys, Long time, no chat! The MJ was stuck up in the high desert for quite a few months with a bad alternator, and with the issue of having a serpentine belt system in an '86 2.5L, finding an easy replacement is rather difficult seeing as everyone in the world is under the assumption that it was only a V-belt system. Regardless, I was curious about the 2.8L; does anyone happen to know if they also did the same thing with using both V-belt and serpentine belt systems?

Just a single terminal. Here are a couple close ups. But definitely a possibility this is the wrong component because the closest looking temp sender we have found to resemble what this is, is from a '67 Nova.

The instrument cluster does have a temperature gauge. Yeah, there is a temperature gauge; no idiot light. But we are unable to find a single terminal sender/sensor/switch, and we don't have full reference since this one looks broken.

I've got a friend who just snagged a 1986 Chevy K10 Suburban 5.7l carbureted V8. We've been tinkering on it a bit, and it's been a blast. However, we have uncovered this sensor in the thermostat housing that seems to be single-pin and it's housing broken on the sensor itself. With all our scouring across the web, we are unable to find a single prong sensor, to which we are assuming a temp sensor or sender of some kind. Help!

I just wanted to get some extra eyes on this before I throw everything back together. Does this seal look seated deep enough?

Well if anyone ends up going, feel free to PM me! I will be there at some point in the week, and I'd love to meet up with fellow MJs.

I'd say your best bet is the Cummins R2.8. I always wanted to do the 4BT swap in my TJ, but I believe the R2.8 is quite a bit lighter? Some people go wild for the 6BT.

Ha! Same; the MJ is not competition ready. Just attending for the first time. However, I will say the other guy in ATJC, I believe, is looking to compete. Not 100% sure however. Come on out!

Anyone going to KOH this year? I will be attending and I believe I saw someone on All Things Jeep Comanche (via Facebook) said they are also gonna be there with their MJ. Stoked to hear if anyone else will be there!

My check went to paying for a little under 3/4 of my rent. But luckily this can help me afford D30 replacement hubs and maybe a REM unit so I don't have to keep borrowing it from @eaglescout526.

@rylee144 Welcome to the 4x4 Club!

Holy hell, I can finally see it. You're right! Oh...that's not good....lol. THANK YOU PETE.

I snagged my MJ back in 2018, and it's always had a "pop" in the steering; I attributed this to a botched steering box. Well, after finally really looking at the issue, something just does not seem right. Pop continues, but I don't necessarily know if it's the box? I've checked the trackbar for slop/play, a ZJ tie rod (NIB) has been installed, and ball joints seem fine. Does this look like abnormal articulation? The springs are bowing out a tad, and I've had a suspicion that maybe when the previous owner did the long arm mod with adjustable control arms, that maybe the axle isn't fully where it needs to be? Any help is much appreciated. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ipypqy31hcVElrb1Nv1ch95pTDBgvwE1/view?usp=sharing

Thanks for all the info guys!

Yes, maybe that is what I was reading; the carrier break. If I wanted to try and find a different carrier, would any D44 carrier work? I'm assuming the best way to go about it is just drop in thick cut gears.

Oh sure, ECGS does everything, haha. My question is more to the tune of the MJ specific D44 possibly having more limitations than a modern D44. I was skimming the forums and some people were saying to go over 4.10, you'd have to swap more than just the ring and pinion. I run 32x11.5 right now, and the max I'd potentially ever go is 35s, thus deepest I'd go is 4.88.

For all you boys that run an MJ D44, what's the deepest gearing you've thrown in? Is 4.10 the max? Mostly looking at the offroading rigs that run bigger than 31" tires. Thanks!

RIP to Don; he had a lot of good info to pass on to the community. I'm gonna drink a dram of whiskey in his name. Cheers to him!