rollovercomancheguy

Sweet ill try that tomm thanks for the idea :USAflag:

Here it goes ive got it pinpointed to the front dana 30 . It sounds like the fan is hitting something i did away with the vac disconnect by installing a one piece xj shaft, and removed th fork.I know it nothing brake related no marks on rotors or unevenly worn pads any ideas?

Yup thought same thing since theyre quality federal moguls. How long will it take for the oil to burn of which i used in the cylinder walls so my truck will quit smoking whit lol.

So its on a normal 1988 renix 4.0 not my stroker installed new bearings an lubricated cylinder walls with oil. With that being said how long til it quit smoking white as in the oil burning?

Well eagle its fixed.The problem was the mains that i got were stamped std. but really were twenty over i learned this by using a micrometer. Thanks again guys for all the help.

Well eagle the new bearings arre stamped STD on back sides of bearings.As for the orientation of them #1 at #1 cylinder then 2 through 6.When I'm looking at the engine from underneath passengers side all numbers face me correct me if I'm wrong but thats wright.Correct also if the connecting rod bearings are torqued an the main caps are loose it will spin.Also for torqueing them down start from center #4 cap then 3,5,2,6,1,7, an all torqued to 80 ft lbs. I'm wondering if maybe i should oil up the cylinder walls an try it.

this is not the 4.7. This is a 4.0 renix 1988 an it needed new bearings an i installed them they needed standard i used new standard bearings.Oh by the way the stroker runs great ps i work at a jeep dealership as a mechanic. I just checked the thrust bearing again in the wright journal. Thanks.

well cruiser the crankshaft won't rotate when i try to spin by harmonic balancer with even the rod bearings unhooked. I had to break torque free on the main bearings to get it to rotate.

So i have a 1988 jeep comanche pioneer 4.0 aw4 4x4, but the engine doesnt crank. I checked the main bearings they were fine an am wondering what size rod bearings i would need , due to the po installed them an I'm leaning towards thats the issue. I used plastigauge for the main bearings an moly lube.All the main bearings were torqued to 80 ft lbs. . Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks tony.

yep it was the starter.Thanks for the help.

so got stroker installed today an am having a problem after i drive for maybe 15 minutes turn it off then go to start it back up acts as iff bad battery or alternator not charging but ran load test on battery good alt test was good 101 connector cleaned an all grounds were redone this problem started on the 4.0 renix that i had in it before the stroker so its not caused by the stroker.My rig is a 1988 jeep comanche 4.7 stroker 4x4 aw4 lifted almost 8 in. an fully locked front an rear thanks ahead of time. ps checked the cps an replaced still same. :???:

sweet thought so thanks jeep on.

ive got the awesome dana 30 with disconnect and am wanting to put the 1 piece shaft out of a 1991 xj dana 30 will this work or not thanks in advance tony

ps if anyone lives near central pa an wants to stop in ill show you it thanks tony.

alright i have a 1988 jeep comanche its 4.0 is blown its auto aw4 and i want to swap engines from a 1991 jeep cherokee that has the 4.0 ho and am wondering what all i have to switch regarding wires sensors an so forth but the 4.0 thats in it now has a cracked head and split block that is why I'm switching the whole thing over. Also can i use the ecu from my 88 for the 91 or swap ecus an id it a direct fit thanks guys you guys rock

just thought i would thank you guys for the help but ifigured out it was the oil pump gear that broke in the pump on the tranny

ok so today i figured out that theirs no fluid making it the tranny cooler so got new lines same thing now my question is their any good write up on how to remove the tranny oil pump :nuts:

yes my jeep is out of 4wd neutral an yes driveshafts are attached but the pump is running but fluid is going to the cooler an switched my lines of manche to it an still the same I'm thinks about trying to put air into the return line an see what happens an correct me if I'm wrong aw4 is 4 quarts correct if its overfilled would it do this.

thanks the input i did the tq convertor the right same for fliud the pumps also woking an same for the tps an brake switch still at a loss :dunno:

also forgot to say when i through it into any gears it sounds like it want to go as in rpms change an everything an i no the pump is also working to I'm still pondering about if its low fluid i checked it tranny in park running cold an it was where it was supposed to be an help would be appreciated thanks tony. :nuts:

onto tranny always done it this way never had any problems

i know not a mj but its a 1991 jeep cherokee motor was shot but the tranny was fine so i pullled the motor an tranny as one out an go a 93 jeep 4.0 from a standard jeep xj an removed the pilot bearing an hooked the tranny on making sure the tq convertor lined up an engaged it did reinstalled on jeep an now i go to shift to drive or any other gear an it won't move an this a 4.0 ho an aw4 tranny was fine before moving to new motor same vehichle

well thanks guys for the help again an hey pete I'm planning on doing whole write up this truck with pics from start to finish everything was completely stripped out of the truck an put back in with alot of pics with that being said how many pics can i load at once an my trucks good now thanks it was the upper control arm length.

so i bought a comanche that was lifted 7.5 inches an it came with a bent$!% tierod and trac bar .i installed the tracbar an new tierod but now where the tierod mounts to drag link its hitting on th bolt for my steering stabilizer lol this sucks do i have to adjust my control arms or what nutz I'm confused an before u ask everything was installed correctly . thanks tony :huh???:

ive got brand new coil spring spacers from daystar i'll take $20 plus shipping