rcturgeon

haha all you need to pass mechanical here in ontario is the center mirror and one side if you look at my pics all i have is the one and its the cheapest one i could find in the parts isle... i put it on the day before i got my mechanical and its only starting to go bad now.. not bad for $20 and a rushed install

ya thats kinda where it is but mostly between where the rear of the door to the front of the door area on the frame.. kinda upsetting.... does anyone have any suggestions for frame repair ? o and when i took those pics it was as i was pulling the carpet out.. after i pulled all the rotted metal out there are a few holes that are a few sizes bigger

okay, swapping out my front e-cable and pulled the seat out with no problem... but... as i pulled back the carpet oh boy i was crying inside just a little, so anyways the floor is rusted out pretty badly, and as I'm looking through the rust holes i can see inside the frame that runs under the cab.. and i can see out the bottom.. so i climb under and its pretty bad too so, I'm fixing the flooring with some sheet metal then going to put some rubber coating or tar or asphalt or something.. the flooring is drying but the frame is the part that worries me.. I'm thinking about making a brace to support it all something like a channel so that there is a piece across the bottom and one going up each side and bolt it all through.. any other thoughts? suggestions? here's a few pics of the floor.. don't have any of the frame yet, ill get some tomorrow

hey guys i changed my tires from the stock 225 and 205/70R15 to some 31x10.5's and just out of convienience I'm wondering how to adjust the speedometer so it reads correctly again? ive looked through other posts but found nothing. its mostly for the odometer so i know when to change the oil and stuff but its nice to have a properly functioning set up... anyways hopefully someone knows and its an easy fix thanks in advance

squeal when it gets hot sounds like a bad bearing.. they start to swell and then lock up, after that usually one of the races will spin in its place, try to find out which one it is becasue i had an old sled that one bearing was squeeling and didnt think about it for a while but by the time i did it had ground the shaft that it was on down to almost nothing

i looked at the only xj the junkyard has and they look really different(right where the U-joints would be)

hey we have matching rust holes above the rear wheel well... I'm not sure what i want to do with mine yet... mines a little bigger i don't want to do a full panel because i can't repaint it yet but i don't want it to look hick.. so I'm leaving it for now

i have the same problem its the u joints in the intermediate shaft for me... i don't have a well stocked junk yard around here so I'm trying to deal with it.. i would like to just get new u joints and custom fit my own intermediate shaft becasue i think mine is telescpoic, and ive read that some were some werent.. so if mine is maybe ill just get begger joints and weld them in somehow

no no leaf rub long ways out from that, and ya if i find some cheap 7's i would get them on there as for the back rack its from an older chevy silverado that Xstrata replaced with a new one and it didnt fit anymore (they then threw it on the roof of a little maintenance shack and my dad found it).. so a little chop cut weld and it was good to go for me.

may sound stupid but theres a little metal tab where the lever comes up and it it doenst make contact with it it will keep the little light on the dash on, also would explain why your taillights stay on, it doenst think the lever is up mine was bent and it took a minute to find out why the light was on. hope that helps

actually I'm trying to swap mine out too.. i did the rear, obviously not to hard but i've got the foot break for the front so the only real option is to remove the seat and some plastics and the edge of the floor mats. And becasue both ends need to feed through something and there are little metal tabs that hold the cable down so theres no way to attach and pull through or anything like that sorry i know its a pain, I'm doing the exact same thing

So it’s been a while but I’m just getting time to sit down and figure out all the things you can do on this site so here’s my project truck. It’s a little slow with the progress because I’m a student (not in an automotive program, so no access to a lift) and believe it or not security is not a well paying job with the company I’m at. So anyways, it's slow going at best. Breakdown: It’s a 1988 Jeep Comanche, 2WD, 2.5l, SporTruck, nothing fancy about it when I got it. Came to me by way of working for one of the older gentlemen in the community and he paid me with it. Best pay check ever :D :bowdown: It came with its problems but slowly I made my way through the problems and when I found one that I could not fix... I found you guys by mistake, got it in September and it took until the following April to get it certified because all the internal work it needed but now it’s been on the road for almost a year and it’s my DD So here it is... this is when i got it after I cut the sport bar out because the 2 front legs had a 14'' section in each that had completly decentigrated from the rust I think those were all taken with my girlfriends phone but I got a good camera for the following Christmas first thing I did was mechanical work then a new stereo and speakers because the stock one couldn’t switch to fm anymore :( but that was okay because now I have a decent system with a few personal touches, (I left about 4 feet of speaker wire on each 6x9 behind the seat so I can put them on the roof or whatever for parties) Originally it had a drop in liner but I wanted that out to see how the dreaded rust situation was... turns out not to bad, so then i got some paint in liner from dupilcolor. Here’s the progression how it went in. before: Sanded out box and tail gate: Oh and the back Rack went on not long after I got the mechanical and then I had to modify the brackets so they could mount a tool box between them. Sorry no pictures of that never thought about it until now. So after a few coats of liner which went in pretty quick and easy, the sun went down and I called it a day. I did another coat in the parking lot at school between classes but it looks the same as it did in those. Next thing was the rear bumper: Sometime after this one and before the next one I dropped the bumper onto my toes :doh: ya it hurt but I cleaned it up and finished the job shortly after Here’s after I mounted the new lights for it and got rid of that piece of wood holding the plate on (also, I have new tires but that for another section) Now for my new 31's, the place I bought the tires wouldn't install them because they’re not the stock size, so I went for a drive to a little private shop and they were happy to do it (after they said their not going to fit and I said o yes they will.. thanks to you guys I knew better) Before: After: There is still a 3'' lift coming for it but depending on how fast it gets in the mail it might be up to a year before it goes in or it will be 2 weeks There is some obvious body work that needs to be done above the rear wheel wells but it can wait until I get some new paint on there too.

i looked at those the other day, look pretty good but the wanted $790 for em out the door.. meanwhile i can get a lot better tires for $840 with none of the other junk they charge up here

haha one of the guys in my class did that..he did it because of necessity but man it was a backyard mechanic job if i ever saw one craziest thing i ever saw.. scared the hell out of me when i had to ride in his van one day, pretty swift thinking though was a good idea to save 100's on troubleshhooting and replacement parts hes the same guy that suggested me to use hockey pucks for a lift.. it works ... but I'm not going to put my life on it

could it be your charcoal canister? the 2 vents on the top of the tank should run to it but it one came off or the canister is bad then gas fumes are just escaping into the air

just went on the hell creek website $121 for the full length AAL's and spacers with shipping included not bad but only 1 3/4'' spacers in front and o well never notice a 1/4'' anyhow but the rub on the control arm with 31's... is it much and what about when the suspension is compressed, does it rub then.. I'm sorry i just don't know how that little wheel well can handle that big of a tire

I'm looking at parts online and i went to the only custom shop in town for the lift kits but i can only seem to find the shackles and not the AAL's but holy F their expensive the one from skyjackes that the custom shop told me about has just the spacers rear shackles and the bushings for $218 seems a touch expensive to me.. all the stuff i see looks like a hockey puck with a hole in the middle (guy from school said hes seen it done... scary to me) and rocky road talks about BPE's i just want to know whats necessary here and whats something smart

Thanks eagle I'm taking their advice for sure, I will be doign a 2'' lift just need some advice about whether to go add a leaf on the rear or shackles i've read that the add a leaf weakens really quick and 31's are what i want to run but i don't know about the gearing I'm not sure what it is now ive been meaning to look but should i be changing it and what to if i did change it ? i don't really know alot about lifts because i've never done one and nobody in my neighborhood does them on their own

all i really need i guess then, what would you suggest for that .. and i want to get rid of that drop in the front end so its level too, is that going to need more lift in the front?

well I'm not going rock crawling or anything like that becasue its only 2wd but i still like to play and the terrain around here requires more than stock height if you want to get some fun in

when i put a new head unit in mine i just spliced it into the stock harness, i did it last year but i think the vehicle wiring came to a connector then from there went into the stock stereo, it took a while to do it becasue i couldnt find the wiring info anywhere.. then i turned the stock radio over and there it was .. but ya.. i don't know if yours would be that easy because mine wasnt quite as high tech as yours but it should be similar and it wasnt a really difficult job

would a 2" lift even be worth it though ?

do you have a better idea for me pete? I'm still a student so money is tight but i still wanna lift it and I'm more or less just beginning with the mod type stuff so i really need support when it comes to this stuff. also its hard to get a lot of parts either OE or aftermarket but more difficult for aftermarket becasue there isnt really a big market for that stuff around here, usually people just leave it how they buy it and rarely do you find any restored vehicles or even bone yards with quality parts

hey guys I'm looking at a 4-1/2 lift kit on ebay and it comes with: front coil springs front upper & lower control arms transfer case drop kit front track bar drop bracket swaybar drop brackets brake line relocating brackets rear lift shackles rear add a leafs 4 RC Hydro 8000 shocks I'm wondering what else I'm going to need to do this project and if its worth my time and money its made by rough country- does anyone have any knowledge about this company with regards to quality and performance thanks

Well I use a Haynes manual, they're usually pretty good in my opinion and they always give good tips and tricks just to make it easier. but anyways the torque for the flywheel/ driveplate bolts are 105ft-lbs hope that helps