huevo83

Thanks i don't know why i couldnt find the website

Thanks for the help, i have been looking for the font for years

Hi i have been looking for a website that has the stickers for the doors and tailgate a while a go i restored my comanche and had put the comanche decals with the modernized font like the 2000 cherokees, does anyone has a link for it?

ok.. thank you... I'm going to check on that... might be missing the hose... cuz i have not seen that.... might have the nipple up there alll clogged up... thank you

ok.... i did not know this... where should it be? would you out a picture of it

Hi. I have modified my MJ to a ZJ brake conversion. This was done 2 years ago... however i have had problems since the beginning. My problem is that it leaks oil from right side... at some point it leaked from both sides... however my major problem is right side... i have changed bearings and seals several times with no change on right side at all... i am at the point to rechange to drums or a new differential... do anybody have an advice or opinion on what i should do or what i might be doing wrong. PD i am using the spacer needed from teraflex to fill the space. So i got that covered. Thanks

thanks to all... I am running an optima yellow top battery, and I am reading from gauge on cluster and directly from battery... and they both are pretty consistent on the numbers... I am running a 400 watts amp for subwofer, a 350 watts amp for the speakers (which , pair of hella 700ff lights that I don't turn on just once in a while, a couple of 4 inch fog lights, just like the ones from the wrangler (don't remember wattage but around 100 watts), and the spec-d tuning headlights which have H7 light bulbs at 55 watts each, thats 110 watts total... leds, amber turn lights, I am really not running that excessive accesories. Electric fans, the left is the OEM from the 2000 cherokee, and the one that replaced the clutch fan is a Zirgo electric fan (ZFB16S - 16" Zirgo 3000 fCFM High Performance Blu Cooling Fan), both running on relays with 10 gauge wire and everything, professionally installed. btw, I think I have the 117 amp alternator from the 2000 jeep cherokee xj donor, at least thats the one I remember putting with the exchange of parts. I am going to try the upgrading of the cables and see what is happening. thanks

I heard of the 136 amp.... and if that does it for you it should do for me, I do have dual electric fans, h7 headlights, sound system, and it is not like mine is dying is just something that I think I would need to upgrade some day near. and came a cross that 170 amp alternator on ebay but I have my doubts.. some reviews say it is great, others it sucks... btw you really are active on this boards hornbrod thanks a lot, its nice to have someone that gives advice actively over here. it is well appreciated.

Has anyoone here used a powermaster alternator? I am thinking of getting a high output alternator and this is the one I came across on ebay that outputs 170 amps with power and 110 and idle... i think is better than those 90/60 or 117/80 out there... I am not sure which one I have, but at power my truck shows 14 volts, and idle it lowers to 12.5 or something close to that. So, i am guessing this could be a good functional upgrade. has anyone of you used this one, or have a better alternator I could use? my truck is a 2000 jeep comanche ( i did the 2000 swap from a jeep cherokee, lol; so any upgrades have to be for a 2000 jeep 4.0l engine, harness, ecu, etc

lol.... thats how I bought the truck, It did not came with it and with the lift it would have not fit anyways... I was in the process of making a new one, but just had a friend put some zip ties so that the valve perfoms as it was supposed to work without load. But in the near future and now with the new rear disc brake conversion I am going to take it out, just have to find the time to do the job. lol...

well I am pretty sure it is a d44, I have gotten all sort of parts for it showing D44 on the listing of every store, and the have matched, so It would not make sense that it is not. but anyways here is the picture, also I have compared with the picture/drawing that has all the covers on it. also the new gasket for the cover was for dana44 too, so I'm pretty sure it is what i think it is. [/url] [/u [/url]

here is the pics of the differentials rear dana 44 fron dana 30 I know, it is a little messy down there, lol.

ok, so the truck is finished, and you guys were right, slim preload spacers where the ones to be used, the problem was the the oil seal retainers where bent and were letting the oil seal to move and making it drip, in the same time making the axle move out and in. thats why it was leaking. So I had to get new, seals, oil seal retainers, redo the axle, put everything new, and now is perfect, it does not leaks, runs smooth and it is perfect... rear disc brakes are way better than normal rear drum brakes.... now I'm debating on putting new gears... thanks a lot to you guys.

ok thanks for all your answers. So with the calculations of the grimmripper web page I came to 4.17 which is either 4.10 and 4.30, as you all mention 4.30 is not made for jeeps. so I will have to change carriers and that will not make my budget. I might go 4.10. however I just did the rear disk brake conversion and it took a load on my budget, since I have to change bearings once, seals twice, oil seal retainers twice, and preload spacers, etc some other things, thats why I was thinking around 400 to 500 the most. I think I can do that in a good shop, since I leave in the border of USA and Mexico and there are good shops that if you bring the parts they will change anything for low cost labor. thats why I think I can do this with a low budget. on the other hand, 4.10 for rear dana 44 could be done as you say, but as the dana 30 I think I saw some on ebay, I just have to find a good quality one on there. SO in the end, I might go 4.10 ust to come close to "stock" to get a better punch from the truck and a little better mileage of gas if not the same but better acceleration. I will track down the parts, and get you guys pictures of the differentials so I can get more advice on this. thanks a lot to everyone for now. I will keep you posted.

ok... I read the article on the grimmjeepers.com page "The basics of gears and why you would want to change them" and what I understand of it, I think is better now, is that for one tire rotation my shaft has to turn 3.54 times... so higher number gear ratio (shorter gears) = higher rpm, better acceleration, bad fuel economy, less top speed..... lower number gear ratios (taller gears) - lower Rpm, better fuel economy, lower acceleration more speed. So to other table that I found on morris, http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-tires/tire-gear-ratio-chart.htm As my calculations Comanches ran around 28 inches tires stock, so with 3.54 gears they made 2769 rpm at 65 mph ... so to get those numbers it would have to go to 4.11gear ratio using 33"s ... so as I understand to return to "stock configuration " it would be 4.11 but my fuel economy would not get better, since I'm doing 2349 rpm at 65 mph on highway by reading the table. any ways am I right? or what do you guys think? I don't go that much wheelin, I live in brownsville texas, what we have over here is sand, so I don't go that much becuase of rust get quickly on cars. I do daily driving and around town, I just have the looks of a really bad @$$ 4wheeler. I need good speed/good fuel economy/ give a good care to the motoor with big wheels, this is what is concerning me the most... am i making it run harder to move? here is a topic I had with pics. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36167-jeep-comanche-roof-basket/?do=findComment&comment=361911

thanks for all your answers. It was kinda late when I posted and was a little bit tired. And yea I meant a full cosmetic 2000 change, not drivetrain. Drivetrain is originally 1991. front and rear. I'm sorry for the confusion. so my understanding is that i will use front high pinion and rear low pinion. and thick ring for rear. and I'm running a automatic aw4 trans from the 2000 cherokee... also engine is 2000. so to Incommando; I do have to change carriers then to go to that gear ratios? what gear ratios would be better like, 4.10? 4.30? to keep factory carriers.. I can't spend that much right now, I was thinking of doing this swap for like 400 dlls total, I would be taking this to a shop, but they want me to bring the parts. or at least they said it would be cheaper that them ordering them and installing. I will post pics later in the week as my truck is right know on rear disc brake conversion... well it is done, but they are doing the engine, trans, oil hcange too. it should be done by tomorrow and will take pics of dravetrain.... as the webpage WWW.grimmjeeper.com... I was putting numbers and my understanding is that 3.54 gears give better mileage than 4.56... i am kinda lost here, I thought it was the other way around, that it will travel farther with shorter gears (bigger numbers) than with taller gears (lower numbers)...anymore explanations... if it is this way am I supposed to keep what I have then?

So this is what I got. 1991 jeep comanche with a full 2000 cherokee swap, there is a thread somewhere in here that I Showed her. anyways. to what this topic is about, I am running on front dana 30 3.54 gear ratio, and a rear dana 44 limited slip track lock differential with 3.54 gear ratio too. I have 285/75/16 tires, which come to about 33 inches. I want to run either 4.10 or 4.56 gear ratio to get bettter gas/mileage, and for it to run smother too, and have a better response. I am no expert on mechanics or anything, just a big fan of comanches, and cherokees, and some other jeeps. All I learned about jeeps has been here. What I want to know is how do I know what type of ring and pinion I need?, low pinion, high pinion, thick, thin ring, etc without taking it apart since it is my daily driver. and what is the best manufacturer to get this parts from. I have found some good deals on ebay from motive gears, yukon gears, and expensive from dana/spicer, omix-ada. any help would be appreciated.

so I got the parts, and everything is installed now, it is not running yet, as I did the change of engine oil and trans oil too, just to give my truck full service, but know the plates sit flush and there is no apparent leak, and they sit better. everything looks a lot better now. It appears the person that installed them at first just rush everything and bent the plates, left the axles a little bit out, or some crappy job like that. anyways, I will keep you guys posted.

thanks to all... I'm just waiting on the new parts to get here so I can reassemble and wish that everything works... will keep you guys posted.

ok so went and check the assembly, after putting the new seals, they are trashed so I will have to put new ones I guess, since the outer part is ripped, i guess from moving or something. it looks that the axle was not installed correctly all the way thru and the retainer plate was bent from the corners when installing so It kinda has a curve (sorry did not take pics of it, I should have)... so my guess is that the axle moved out and in letting the preload ring and seal move out of their space. that is the only thing that I can think would explain the leaking. because everything is installed as how you guys are telling me . So I will have to order some new retainer plates and put new seals. I hope the bearings don't get screwed once again. Since I put new ones on the first try. the only thing I am having doubt now is the seal backwards... so this is how it is installed.... the flat part is towards the tire where the preload spacer ring "presses" and the "concave" part towards the differential gears? is that backwards or right? thanks for your advices so far.

mmm... i might tack weld them then and see what happens... will let you know... thanks for now...

any answer that would help... lol

could it have happen that the spacer is a little bit too small and that is why it is leaking? this are the dimensions from the ones I got first and are installed 2.80" od x 2,25" id x .228" thick (Brake plate Spacer for DBK-J Disc-brake kits) http://www.teraflex.biz/brake-plate-spacer-for-dbk-j-disc-brake-kits.html this are the ones I just ordered 3" od x 2.25 ID x .230 Thick Rear Disc Brake Preload ring for Jeep Early Kits http://www.teraflex.biz/rear-disc-brake-preload-ring-for-early-kits.html#second what do you guys think... ? BTW... people at teraflex told me I needed 86261... the thinner one..

ok, so as the figure shows, it is in the right direction and is assemble right. so if I weld the ring even if it is a little "thin"... he said it is the width of 2 paper pages... will i need to leave the space needed? will it work? i ordered the other rings anyways, but will welding the ones I have work?; I'm in a stress because it is my daily driver and ordering them will take several days to get here. I need a lot of help with these. about the venting will check I think it is blocked.

ok, it is dripping now for both sides, and i went and check for the hose, and there is none... there is only the nipple... should I put one? another thing... have you had an issue with the preload spacer ring being loose and moving towards the tire and letting the seal move? supposedly my friend told me that is what is happening. any advice?