Kyleinreallife

Can you elaborate? What’s an o2 heater?

Ive heard both yes and no, just looking for confirmation.

It smells rich at all times. And yea the cat is empty, which would give a rich smell. Duh, Kyle. Lol Something about how it’s running makes me think it’s not just the open cat though. I’ll have to check for exhaust leaks, I just retorqued my manifold bolts though. And good point on the tank, I’ll have to do that soon.

It’s not my first Cherokee, nor my first car. I’ve been driving since I was 11. Maybe you don’t know cars, but if you do, you can tell when something is off. Mechanical intuition, if you’d like. Also, if you’d like, you can start a thread to talk about your vehicles and experience, but in here, let’s keep to the issue at hand and keep the condescension and assumptions to a minimum. “Try harder than it should”: i give it more gas while going up a hill and there is a disproportionately lower rpm response than there should be. Understand better? Have you heard the term “bogging down”? Slightly similar to that, but not quite, it doesn’t lose power, but doesn’t quite accelerate as it should.

Speed drops too, it’s like it’s having to “try” harder than it should. I think y’all may be spot on on the gearing. I’ll look into it, but that wouldn’t explain it running rich and thus underpowered. In 4L it smells rich but will idle up anything.

I’ve changed the fuel filter, map and egr recently. Fuel pump could be going out? Would that make it sluggish? It’s been whining occasionally.

Also, I’m thinking my issue may be a combination of curing and something in the fuel system. Because it definitely smells rich on start up

I’ll have to do some reading to better understand this info.

Okay, I’ll have to try and get an accurate speedo reading. The rpms don’t vary except when starting to climb a hill, they will drop accordingly with the load, however when I give it more gas to compensate, the rpms will climb very slowly, given the gas pedal a “soggy” feeling, not mechanically mind you, but as if I’m having to give it more gas than I should to compensate for the hill climb.

Haven’t been able to get an accurate speedo reading. I know it shows at least 10mph slow, but that was done using a speedo ap on my phone, which themselves aren’t very accurate. That being said. If I’m holding 2200 and my speedo reads 55(~65) It still seems slower than it should. For reference I’m I’m not in traffic, I'm holding up the slow lane lol. How would I tell if the torque converter is the issue? I do notice that it seems to not want to shift into overdrive until about 21-2200 rpm and even then if I bring it up slowly to that it will have a tendency to stay in 3rd, with a slight tap of the throttle it’ll go into 4th

I have to hold it at 2200 just to be able to keep it at 65, which was making me think a fue system issue. I’ll have to confirm my gearing this week and get back to everyone. On the opposite end, could it have been overgeared? From a stop, tapping the throttle will pop me up just about anything, could this be why it’s having to overwork at the top end to keep speed?

Good call, will look up how to test that sensor.

Trans doesn’t seem to be slipping, kinda clunks into gear from neutral, but nothing unusual. Actually at what rpm, should it be shifting into overdrive?

3.54 is stamped on the tag on the diff. Not sure if it’s been changed. Will check this week, planning on changing diff oil and will know for sure. Annnnd not bad shape? 215k miles. Electrical needs cleaning up. I’ve replaced map, o2, tps, iac, oil pressure, water pump, belt, alternator, cap/dist, plugs/wires, vac lines, egr valve and solenoid, fuel&oil filters. Cleaned the throttle body, refreshed grounds, went through most of your tips. Someone put the ford orange top injectors on and it runs a bit rich. Also, there was a gm map sensor and egr from a Le Mans before I replaced everything. Also, running open cat, only has pre cat o2 sensor. Thanks for all the great info and advice...what do y’all suggest?

Some PO had pulled all the plastic out at one point and lost most of th stock hardware, lots of sheet metal screws and supplementary holes into nothing...all previous work...looks like it was done by a tweaker. Just looking to replace with interior that’s not as severely damaged. Also, would like to remove power seats windows and locks

Yes? Lol I guess I’m wondering exactly what years to look for..what does 97+ mean? 1997 until? Correcto mundo on the pony bonus..will the HO bolt right in? What’s an 0331 head and how do I tell the difference? What is TUPY?

*bump

I have an 87 xj Wagoneer. What are my (best) swap options. I’d like to keep everything underneath: np242, d30 hp ncad, d44, aw4. It’s a limited, but I could take or leave the interior, wouldn’t mind an update. I love the renix torque but would like to be able to go over 65 on the highway without burning half a tank on the way to work (exaggeration). Averaging about 200miles a tank, I believe it’s 15 gallons. On 33s with stock gearing, I think. I'm thinking buy a complete donor vehicle but don’t know what years to look at for engine/interior compatibility. Here she is trying to fakie crooked grind off a cliff. Skaters know what I mean lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How so? I’ll double check to make sure all connections to the canister are good, again this isn’t the vacuum reservoir canister to be clear. 87 XJ WAGONEER I-6 NP242 AW4

It’s renix. I did cruisers tips already (you mentioned grounds) and replaced all vac lines, except for cruise control which I plugged and deleted bc the stalk is broken. It’s run rich since I bought it and just just been workin my way through. Someone put the orange top Ford injectors on, not sure if that had anything to do with the mismatched egr and map sensor. I’m trying to get back to stock, minus the injectors—want to keep the 4 ports although I’m not sure if these particular ones are compatible. Haven’t done a fuel pressure test yet. Anyone know what specs I should aim for? 87 XJ WAGONEER I-6 NP242 AW4

Lol tell me about it! I keep a brand new cat on hand just to weld on and off when it needs smogged. 87 XJ WAGONEER I-6 NP242 AW4

Bonus info, already pulled and cleaned the throttle body. 87 XJ WAGONEER I-6 NP242 AW4

Great thanks! I’m working through an mpg issue. Does it have any affect? What would be the pros/cons of removing it? How can I find out if I need it in CA (probably)? Also, I just replaced my map sensor, the one I pulled off was from a GM (previous egr valve was off a Le Mans), idk what else the PO poo poo’d. Anyone know what effect having the incorrect map and egr would have? So far I’ve replaced: iac, tps, o2, egr valve&solenoid, map....anything else I should do before moving on to the injectors and fue pump? (Fuel filter also replaced) 87 XJ WAGONEER I-6 NP242 AW4

What relays am I looking at here? What is this and what’s its purpose?

Good info thanks! Motor was rebuilt ~5 years ago. Timing has been a little off ever since, countered with the distributor advance. We’re thinking the tps is finally going out and having a hard time compensating for the off timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk