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Hey, all the info on the HP vs. LP is much appreciated, but I still have questions about leaf springs. Currently it is SOA on a Chrysler 8.25 - it still sags a bit compared to the front. Should I do an add a leaf or a shackle to straighten it up. Should I put a load of stuff in it for camping I would like to not have to cut the fenders for it to not rub on 33s. Looking at Bilstein 5125 shocks. How do I make sure I have the travel and length measurements correct?

Any tips on swapping gears? I wouldn't mind the effort if I felt comfortable with it. Looks like it involves a press, which i don't have. Since I have a manual, I think the 4.1 will be just fine with the 33's.

Weren't those aluminum dana 44s?

Thanks for the info on the TJ Axle! I just read that they bolt in, didn't realize it was low pinion. My front pinion is leaking, thought a new one would be easier than rebuilding it. I haven't pulled it yet, so I will keep looking for a 4.10 off an xj, or regear mine. Looking to swap the rear axle for the disc brakes from the explorer and for funsies. I work in finance, I am doing this stuff because I find it a fun hobby, even if it doesn't come second nature to me. I want to keep the 33"x12" tires that came with it and size the lift to fit and ride nicely with that. I have the 4.0 renix with the Peugeot 5 speed. The truck will be used for overlanding/hunting and an occasional trail in Utah as I am a few miles away. Mainly trips to the hardware store and taking the mountain bike to the trailhead.

I have had my MJ for 4.5 years now and I finally have some time/money to fix some things from the prior owner and have some questions. Thankfully I have only driven it sparingly on the weekends, but now I have the means to do something great with it. Previous owner put an XJ chrysler 8.25 under it and did spring over. They didn't move the spring perches and it rides horribly. The springs also bottom out easily when you load up the bed -It came with 33" wheels. I pulled a 4.10 Ford 8.8 from the junkyard and found a dana 30 from a '97 TJ manual 4 cyliner - Also 4.10. The truck is getting brand new axles! I am adding a lunchbox locker up front and looking at an OX locker for the ford 8.8. The current front springs have some spacers in them. I bought Rubicon Express 4.5" springs with lower control arm lowering kit to hopefully improve the ride. I want to do the rear springs right. Do I keep the old twisted stock springs that were converted to spring over? Do I stay spring over with the new Ford 8.8? I don't mind buying new springs, but I wouldn't know which ones to get with the new axle so the height is right to match the front. Is there a way I can get an inch or so of rear lift with an add-a-leaf? Just put in a shackle? I want to use the bed fairly frequently as it is a long bed so I want the springs a bit stiffer. More of an overlanding build than a rock climbing build. PS, I plan on using the iron rock off road swap kit. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-ford-88-axle-swap-kit-w-truss.html There is an option that comes with a truss, but I will have to trim it down to fit the width of the MJ spring perches. I was planning on doing this. Any thoughts on why that wouldn't be a good idea?

My heater stopped working last year in the middle of a December Elk hunt, not very fun! Looking to replace the heater core, and was thinking ... how hard would it be to add air conditioning at the same time? Are the 91-96 systems compatible with my '88 4.0 Renix?

There was a short in the alternator. I am going to once again go through Cruiser's list and check all the grounds. I left it at a mechanic in a small town to sort it out. I will be dropped of Friday and drive it back.

Some updates. I have the updated cables that cruiser has mentioned. The 150 amp stereo fuse on the cable to the alternator blew. There is a short somewhere in the system that is drawing a lot of juice. This is beyond me, but luckily I had a buddy in the area that highly recommended a mechanic. It might be a short in the alternator itself. Who knows.

Update, now it won't start. Hear clicking from the starter, but it doesn't engage/turn over. I am stranded.

I am currently driving to Moab (live in Salt Lake). Previously my blinkers wouldn't work. I replaced the blinker solenoids, blinker switch, worked electrical connectors etc. Nothing worked. After a while and much frustration they started working again. I drove the truck several times prepping for the trip and today made it about half way when they went out again. This time headlights are also really dim and cabin lights are out, making it dangerous to drive at night. It was raining. The high speed wipers don't work, but the low speed do, but REALLY SLOW!. Any ideas for the gremlins here? I had replaced wiring with the aftermarket kit suggested on the site that someone makes. Hoping everything starts working again and I am not stuck on the road. Maybe it is a moisture issue? Anyone have something similar?

I am having very similar issues. I have replaced the blinker switch, the 2 round relays and cleaned out the connector. What are these blinker sockets and where can I get them. I heard of people using Ford sockets. Is that better? I think after this I need to see if there is a ground somewhere with the wires. My hazards work, but my blinkers do not.

Feel like the dumbest millennial. I had the whole steering column broken down when I noticed the actual lever sticking out of the column. I was thinking it was something on the inside. The previous ignition cylinder was so loose, it turned without it and I never used the lever! The new one worked and then the lever became effective and I never knew it was there!

Man! I wasn't sure if it was an original 5 speed or not, and it was. It is just the center console mount is loose and looks like it was messed with. I bought it from a kid that bought it from a guy that worked on it. What isn't original is the 4wd (I think). I know they put a chrysler 8.25 on it, but I just looked up the VIN in a decoder (Not always accurate) and I found that it was a 2wd and ... that it was originally a big ton? Does that mean that the previous owner pulled out the d44 for the 8.25? Crazy if so. You searched for VIN : 1JTMW66F8JT106516 This vehicle's data: Country of Manufacture United States Manufacturer Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type Truck Engine 4.0L, I-6, MPI Powertrain 5-speed manual, floor gear shift, 2 W/D Body Type Jeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 7.0 foot bed, 120 inch wheel base Gross Vehicle Weight Comanche, Base, Metric Ton, Big Ton / Comanche, Custom, Metric Ton, Big Ton = 5001 - 6000 lbs Assembly Plant Toledo, Ohio, USA Model Year 1988 Read more: http://www.jeepz.com/forum#ixzz4ShSBF8wj

There is a mechanism. The column for a manual tranny has a release lever to allow the cylinder to turn to the final OFF/REMOVE position. For the automatics, this was done with a cable from the shifter. This is the same mechanism that locks the steering wheel -- does your wheel lock? If your truck is a manual, and you don't have the release lever, it probably is a column from an automatic, and whoever installed it didn't bother to create a way to release the key. Thanks, I don't think the wheel locked. I will try to find a way to work this out. Previously the cylinder returned all the way and I could remove the key.

AMC86Kid, that actually helped. On mine the rod that controls the steering wheel lock etc. is stuck. It doesn't stick out with the wheel steering wheel off and without it moving back to where it sticks out with the wheel off, the key won't release from the cylinder because it is not in the right position. I haven't seen any other write ups that talk about that rod. I will try to get to it from underneath the dash and see if I can figure out why it is sticking.

Changed my lock cylinder on my '88 ignition and now the key won't release. I removed it and re-installed it several times and I can't get it to release. The mechanism it turns is stuck and won't turn back enough to let the lock cylinder disengage the key. Am I missing something? I have re-installed the steering wheel, started it and turned it back and forth and the key still won't release. The original lock cylinder (That doesn't need a key to turn) has the same issue where it won't turn back to the lock position. I am trying to see if there is some mechanism that will lock the key that I have overlooked. It is a stick, but I think a previous owner might have switched it from an automatic. would there be some sort of mechanism that prevents you from removing the key that I am overlooking? Did the steering column just get stuck? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the suggestions. Since my truck is a longbed, it might have room for a 33". The reason I am looking for a spare is because my wheel fell off as I was going down the road. (I had tightened the lug nuts down about a month previously when doing some maintenance). When the wheel fell off, it was damaged so much that when I tightened new lug nuts on it, and checked it after a half mile, they were coming off already. I bought the truck to use for hunting/camping/snow so I realized I want a spare and waiting with it on a jackstand for a new wheel to come in isn't fun. I am thinking of buying a narrower 33" spare and hoping that it fits under there. I do have the longbed. Any suggestions on how to mount it? I have none of the original mounting hardware.

I searched through the forum, and it looks like the biggest spare that can fit under the bed is a 32" tire. I purchased my long bed MJ in September with 33" tires, but it did not come with a spare. Hoping I never have to use it, I am thinking of getting a 32" spare and putting it under the bed. It would be there in a pinch but not take up in-the-bed space. This leads to questions. 1. Are their preferred ways for mounting it when there are no original mounting hardware left? (I have seen tie-down straps) 2. Would limping out on a 32" spare hurt anything on the truck? I understand it wouldn't be ideal ... but would it be worse than the "Do not exceed 50 MPH" donuts of economy cars? Would it hurt a differential? 3. Does anyone else have an approach with 33" tires? avoid the spare and carry Fix a flat and a compressor? 4. I am thinking of using a 32x10.5 on a 15x8 rim to replace the non-spare 33x12.5 on a 15x10 rim. are there other tire size options?

I just looked up the prices on new locks, and they are really reasonable. I think I will just go the new route. Thanks for the info.

Similar question, The MJ that I recently bought didn't come with a door key (88 had a separate ignition/door). Upon further review, the single sided ignition is so worn, you can turn the ignition over without the key. I want to replace all 3 cylinder locks with the same key. Will a 91-96 key cylinder fit in the same steering column? (I am guessing they will fit on the same doors).

Some fun developments have occurred. The bolt that held in the IAC on the throttle body wasn't missing, it had broken off flush under the previous owner. I have tried to drill it and back it out using a screw extractor, but my skills were not very precise (and it is a small bolt to begin with) -I ended up breaking the extractor off in the hole. I either need to find a machine shop with a drill press or head to a salvage yard and grab a new throttle body. I read several places about bored-out (60mm) renix throttle bodies. Are these worthwhile if I am getting a new throttle body anyways? Last pull-a-part I went to did not have any Renix era jeeps. There has to be a renix throttle body floating around Salt Lake somewhere. Any tips or suggestions?

Thank you! I will be going through the list. I just found that the top bolt of the IAC is missing and it was kind of hanging loose. That is big. I will clean it and get a new bolt in today. On the volvo injectors ... it is any injector with 746 as the trailing numbers right? Many of the ones on ebay are used, would you be concerned at all about buying used injectors?

Hey, I previously posted about my newly purchased Comanche that wouldn't start in September. http://comancheclub.com/topic/51278-bought-an-mj-today-now-it-won't-start/ The issue is that it often won't start, especially if warm. At times I have hitched rides home to pick it up the next morning after driving it somewhere. (it isn't a DD). Since Posting I have tried several things such as Went through items 1-5 on Cruiser's list installed a new CPS purchased and replaced cables with Mean Lemmon's custom cables. I installed the cables last night and it drove strong afterwards. It was slow to start this morning, but I decided to take it to work anyways and after I got it to work, it wouldn't start again. This morning the idle was lower than it was last night (~500 RPM). I have started it before by opening the throttle body all the way when warm. Things suggested previously that I haven't addressed are Possible leaky injectors or pressure regulator (Is there a way to test this besides buying new parts and throwing them on?) - It doesn't smell like gas A shut down relay that presets the IAC (Is this the IAC sensor itself or something else?) I was after seeing another thread with an idle video talking about vacuum lines that can be an issue as well, but I bought this truck to be a better mechanic. I would like clearer insights on where the vacuum issues would be, how to test and how to fix. (There was stuff about spraying starting fluid, but I don't know why you would do that and what you would be looking for). I am still perplexed on how to fix the issue. Any help will be much appreciated.

The PO may have installed a later model XJ axle - Chrysler 8.25. This is considered a better axle than a Dana 35, that most likely came from the factory. (A Dana 44 was an option for MJs). Additionally, the factory gear ratio for a 4.0, 5 speed was 3.07. You should check the current gear ratio. If the XJ axle came from an auto trans, then the ratio would be 3.55. The front axles used for MJs and XJs was a Dana 30. If the rear axle changed to 3.55, make sure the front axle matches that ratio. This is a Chrysler I found an Axle Identification guide, and I do have a Chrysler 8.25. The gearing is really tall (Also they have 33" wheels on it, so it might just bee the wheels). I will need to take a look at that. My truck's rear end looks just like Onlyinajeep726's photo. I will need to address this so it will drive a bit better day to day. Also if the gearing on the front and rear axles are different, wouldn't that be really rough in 4 wheel drive? Makes me shutter! Is there a what to test that without pulling the gears for inspection?

Ok, I am going to start going through Cruiser's list tomorrow morning, but I have some new information that might help in the diagnosis. 1. It has no problem starting when cold and it runs once started, but once warm ... it won't start. Also, I don't see too much torque on the rear leafs to make it seem out of position on the rear axle. The axle doesn't look modified though. PO said that the person that had it before him put an XJ rear axle on it. I don't know how to identify an axle and currently I don't know how to post pictures on this forum. Once I have that identified, I will post/update the rear axle thing. Is that something that I should have fixed, or is it something that can pass, but just isn't optimal?