DirtyDeeds

I do not,i have looked at some but haven't got one. I was going to try one if the adjustable MAP wasn't enough but it seems to be working with the 24lb injectors. I just checked my MAP,without the MAP adjuster it is sitting at 4.54v volts with the key on. (It's the middle wire on the plug to check it) I bumped it up to 4.74v with the MAP adjuster and ran a few laps around the neighborhood,it's running pretty good like that. post some pix of your rig

my engines sock, if i get a lil extra torque and the cool sound ill be happy!!

https://www.facebook.com/100011357421019/videos/538117149910194/

well if I'm reading the chart right, the factory map should be able to keep up with what little boost the m90 can put out, but ill look into the map adjuster

The Renix ECU (nor the HO OBD1 ECU) is not programmable and can not read the 2-bar MAP voltage output signals. Plus the timing advance needs to be increased, fuel pressure increased, and larger injectors are needed with a turbo setup. Most use an aftermarket piggyback controller like a Unichip or Megasquirt. There are several forums around to read up on the basics, like: http://msruns.com/ http://www.msefi.com/ http://www.msextra.com/ I'm only going to run 6psi to start and I'm installing a msd ignition to control timing, already have bigger injectors and a higher psi pump, the map was the only thing i was needing info on. however the m90 I'm installing only has a max boost of 10psi, and ive read that most stock maps will handle that but there are aftermarket 2 bar maps that are calibrated to put out the same voltage range as factory maps, i just needed to match the voltage range so the ecu can read it. just finish my bracket and did a test run of it, sounds SOOOOOOO GOOOD but now i have to get the inlet made and get the tube kit/blow off valve and a few other things still a month out from being ready

Does any only know the operating voltage range for the map sensor on a 87 mj with the 4.0? I need to get a 2 bar to use the supercharger I'm mounting and need to match the voltage ranges.

ive been racking my head on what to do about drain plugs on my floor pans.. what is every one else using? i want to find something that can be easily opened or removed so i can wash out the sand with a hose. post some picks if you have a good idea for me :)

1987 Comanche (sub model unknown possibly an Eliminator based on factory lowering blocks and trans combo) Jeep name: DIRTY DEEDS OD Green black/blue dash, 01 grand Cherokee driver seat 4.0L, originally with a 5sp Manuel 2wd, been 4x4 swapped with an AW4/NP242, D30 front, D35 rear, short bed 260k miles when the odometer stopped working an unknown number of years ago Made in January 1986 Currently in Corpus Christi TX Has custom Digital gauge cluster, race stile switch ignition, and Shiftier by RaDesigns to control the AW4 Plans: install an Eaton M90 Supercharger i have and see how long the engine last while i build a chevy 350 for it

well its my toy and all the places i go on the beach you need 4x4 to get to, i picked up a used set of 3.55 gears on ebay that will hold me over

my gauge is wired for 0-90 but its working backwards... but hey it works lol

i might add one of those. there is somewhat of a overland drive here that is 60 miles down un inhabited beach 4x4 the whole way and id love not to have to take gas cans!!

Thanks!! that did the trick, my dumb @$$ was back assward and had every pair switched -.- runs as good as 260,000 + well let it lol

new info, I'm out there looking right now and 3 of the 6 injector plugs have the label AMP stamped on the side, does that have any thing to do with winch cylinder they should be mated with?

87 MJ 4.0L

do the fuel injectors have to be plugged up in a certain order?? i put injectors in a few months ago and i just pulled them to flush them after i put my new tank in. the first time went good and it ran perfect for a week till the new ones got clogged from the gunk in the old tank, this time however the injector harness cam apart on me while i was pulling them and when i put them back i can't tell if they went back where they came from. it seems to be running a little worse also, even tho the injectors are perfectly clean now. i noticed the the hot wire on the injector connectors are kind of color coded, grn/blk, yel/blk, orng/blk, grn/blk again, yel/blk again, and orng/blk. any ideas??

well i custom built a cluster the 3 lights at the bottom 2 amber for part time one green for full time will be my indicator lights. now the 242 only has 2 shown positions least thats how it was when iy was still in my xj that i pulled it from. now couldn't i have all 3 lights on the same hot then have my part times have one ground to the switch, then my full time have its own ground to the switch?

can any one explain how the 4x4 indicator switch works? i think i read once that its goes hot to light to the switch and when it get to a certain position it grounds turning on the light, my mj was 2wd so I'm having to start the circuit from scratch.

ok after hours of sniping and slicing my arms to $#!& this is what i have... the arm has plenty of room to move freely and i still have baffling. is it pretty? no.. is it right? no.. will it work for me and my now - budget? yes.. oh am i right in assuming that the purple wire is my signal wire for the sending unit?? and do you think i should run a whole new signal wire from the sending unit to my gauge or jump off of the factory wire that plugged into the back of the cluster?? i did away with the factory cluster and made my own oh am i right in assuming that the purple wire is my signal wire for the sending unit?? and do you think i should run a whole new signal wire from the sending unit to my gauge or jump off of the factory wire that plugged into the back of the cluster??

Lol the bed mount is always an option. Maybe PM saveevryjp1998 on here. He's been through quite a few yards recently hunting MJs so he may have a tank in good shape or at least be able to get you one. ya my only prob with the bed mount is here in south texas all my damn fuel would evap out, hell i left the new tank in the sun an hour and burned my self picking it up. if i can cut this corner off of this sump ill call it a day and run that, I'm WAYYYY to far in the red funds wise in the tank situation to put any more money in it.... problem is even with my small hands getting enough force with tin snips in there isnt easy

they have one for $300+ thats has a baffled sump.. but i can't do that.. if i can manage to cut and bend one corner of the sump the arm will have full motion... otherwise ima just strap the 20 gallon in the bed

auto zone has it but with only a 23 gallon which won't fit..

just looked on line can't find one without baffles i don't see any way to bend the arm.... oh it fits perfectly in the 20 gallon tank i can't use tho... -.-

so cut the baffle?... because as far as i can tell it should work just fine if the damn thing wasnt in the way

ok here's a question so i got the 18 gallon and a new sending unit/pump Assembly, but when i put it in it looks like sending unit arm is catching on the baffle in the tank! and this is the only sending unit assembly every one of the auto parts stores shows... is it suppose to fit in like that or what?? because I'm about to take some tin snips to the baffle !!! :fs1:

no but i can take some this afternoon