JasonB

Yeah I'm kinda leaning toward the ecobox plus wouldn't I have more clearance compared to a hacked up 231?

Thanks. I was looking at doing the 231/241 doubler that involves a kit from Froehlich Suspensions. Have you heard of this company? I've got two spare 231's lying around that I could pick from to hack on. And as for the speedo thing I might just do the auto meter gps gauge

I just recently purchased a Rock Trac t case that came out of a 2010 JK that had 30k miles on it. I'm looking at the very least replacing the 231. I have plans on doing the AW4 to AX-15 or Nv3550 swap. While swapping the tranny that's when I plan on going with the Rubi case. My first question is will the Rock Trac bolt up to the AX-15 as I know that the Rock Trac was only bolted up from the factory to the NV3550 and the NSG370? My next question is what do I do with my speedo? I was thinking of just running without it. It's more of a trail rig anyway. And the last question is: since I do have 2 other Np231's lying around, has anyone done or heard of someone doing a 231/241 doubler? I've tried to research a kit for the rubicon mating to the 231 and I've come up empty-handed. The only thing that pops up on the radar is the northwestfab kit for a 231 mated to their ecobox. It doesn't mention the rock Trac that I'm aware of. Any help would be much appreciated.

Ok thanks I have decided to get a Rubicon case. I'm actually meeting the guy tomorrow. He wants 1250$ for it but I've got him down to $1100. He won't budge much further on the price. It came from a rolled 2010 Jk unlimited with 29k miles on it. The case is extremely clean as if it's never been wheeled in the dirt before. Next step is either getting an ax-15 or nv3550. Is there a write up somewhere on doing the conversion? On either one. My concern is not the spline count as from my understanding both the ax and the 3550 have 23 spline output shafts but I'm concerned with the shaft protrusion outward from the case. Will that match up to an ax-15 fine?

It's been awhile since I last posted anything but I've been busy with the birth of my second girl. Now she's 3 months old and my oldest is now seven. I'm also a firefighter at to different departments and going to school part-time. But during my off time occasionally I get the chance to tinker on on the Comanche. Here recently I've been working on trying to get my Ford 9 inch in. I'm at the point of setting my pinion angle and butting everything back up. My next big project will be replacing the Aw4 auto with a manual. Not sure right now if I wanna go nv3550 or ax-15. I've heard that the nv3550 is stronger but the ax-15 is more reliable. The nv3550 is also picky on its fluids. I do know if I go with the ax-15 then I'll need the 94 and up due to the external slave cylinder. And I also know that the nv3550 has a better crawl ratio in first at 4.01 compared to the ax-15's 3.83. What do you guys think? Nv3550 or ax-15 tranny and why? New or junkyard or rebuilt? My other question or concern is after the tranny I wanna go low low with my gearing. I've got decent low gearing in my diff with Dana 44 and the 9 inch having 5.13's. I was thinking of doing a doubler setup with the northwestfab doubler kit since I have a spare 231 setting around (price is around 700$ for kit or 1600$ for a built one. Was also thinking of running a doubler with a rubicon case that I can pick up for $1100. Also if not the rubicon case I'd like to run the Tera low kit if I were to keep the 231 (price on the Tera low is around $700). Here's another idea...I've got a ford np205. Is that overkill? Attach that to the doubler and run that? What do y'all think? Would the np205 mate up to the doubler kit by nwf? Any ideas? Let me know what y'all think. If you guys have any suggestions that would be helpful please feel free to post your comments. Thanks

Yeah it seems the crawler cases for the Toyotas are way more affordable compared to a 1200$ rubicon case

Ok so ecobox is a good option. Where do I find this? How much does it usually run? And what are the details to installing it? Does it bolt onto my existing 231?

XJrev, man I can't tell all my secrets. Lol I think I can get the guy down even further than $1200. Cash talks! Mnkyboy, dude that looks like a great setup but ouch at the floorboard. You had to fillet it. It would be nice to fix it up where u could just have an access hole for maintenance. Drill some holes and rig up clips and bolts. Just might work

Gotcha well either way they are way over my price range lol. Thanks for all the info. Seems like your a well informed individual. If you have any other suggestions just please don't hesitate.

I'm thinking of just running the Rubicon case for now as I am not that savvy in just rigging something up and creating a doubler. And like you stated above, the market really isn't supportive of the Jeep doubler setup. It must be nice if your a Yota guy with all the aftermarket doubler support. (Kinda hating on the Yotas right now) lol. At least if I get an AX-15 mounted to a 4:1 Rubicon case I can select a higher gear if I need wheel speed and hit first or second if I'm in a situation where I need more control. And if I hit first gear with that setup and my diff gears being at 5.13 then that brings my crawl to a 79:1. I would prefer more selections but I'm not willing to shell out the big dough for the Atlas or Stak tcase. I have found a Rubicon case locally for around $1200. I've looked on eBay and it seems like that's where the price is typical for them to be had.

Not a lot of highway use but I did want to keep it either an AX-15 or NV3550. There's even a NSG370 6 spd for sale that I looked at but too much for my taste at $1500. I just wish that someone would cater to Jeeps like Marlin Crawler caters to Toyotas with the doubler market.

I'm looking at options for a low range that would improve my crawl ratio significantly. Once I'm done working on my 9 inch rear I want to eventually start working on doing the AW4 to AX-15 conversion. That's the first step in lowering the ratio. Next is what transfer case setup to go with. I know I could put a Rubicon tcase in (NP241OR) which would give me a 4:1 and would cost in the range of $800-$1200. Another option is to get the Tera Lo kit which would also give me a 4:1 and be around $1200-$1400. I have a second Np231 lying around extra in which I could use it to make a doubler. The thing is is I'd love to have a doubler but A. I'm not experienced in building one and I haven't seen a lot of information or write-ups about doing this and B. Is this a good setup because I've heard that a 231 due to it being chain driven and not gears it would be prone to breaking? The little bit of information that I have found with jeep doublers is that most people use the Dana 300 from the cj's. I'm trying to keep it as cheap as I can plus like I stated before I already have this second 231 lying around. I know with the 231/300 combo I would have to do a flip kit on it since the 300 is passenger side drop so that would be another cost plus the cost of acquiring a 300 which is around $300. i know with just the 4:1 option that only lends me two options (1:1 and 4:1) but with the doubler I would have three options with the 231/231 (1:1, 2.72:1, 7.40:1)and five options with the 231/300 (basically same as the 231/231 setup but an added bonus of having front wheel and rear wheel dig). If I went with the ax-15 mated to the 231/231 doubler I could net about a 160:1 crawl which would be great. Any help or advice in this matter would be very appreciated. Thanks

Anytime

I meant couldn't fully clip it back into place. Sorry

The year of my MJ is 88. Underneath the hood I ran the cable under the booster. What the issue was, was the connection under the dash where I disconnected it just enough to access the bottom nuts for the booster. Even after putting it back together as best as I could I could fully clip the cable retention clip back into its original place but oh well it works for now. Plus there's not a whole lot of room under the dash especially with the brake pedal in the way as I didn't feel like taking it back off. As for the booster I used...I'm really not sure which one it was due it coming with the truck as an extra part with the truck when I traded for it at the time.

Just a word of advice for anyone doing the brake booster upgrade on your Comanche that has an automatic trans and column shift. If you do this mod and you go to crank your Jeep up and you get nothing start looking at adjusting the neutral safety switch. I found out the hard way. See while I was doing the upgrade I took the shifter cable loose to be able to access the two bottom nuts that hold the booster in place. So once I installed everything back to what I thought was correct my truck wouldn't start. I checked grounds, battery, and starter. So I got to thinking and thought just maybe it could be the NSS. So I shifted the trans underneath on the tranny itself to make sure it was all the way in the park position.i then tried to crank it and it fired right up. So just FYI if you have starting issues after doing the Cherokee brake booster upgrade on your ride please check to see if it's not your NSS needing adjustment.

Carrollton

Any idea which ground and where to start looking?

So i'm thinking of doing this socket replacement with the Dorman Part number on my front blinker. My blinkers don't even come on and no hazards. Occasionally if the headlights are on the left indicator on the inside shows up solid. There is power to the socket and I'm using brand new bulbs (2057A) but when the bulb is placed in socket I get no light or blinkers. I've checked my fuse (turn signal/backup) in the fuse box under the dash and swapped out the blinker/hazard fuses. So what do you guys think is my problem? I know guys have had similar issues with grounding etc but I was wondering what everyone thought in this particular case as to what's going on. Any help would be appreciated.

So i'm thinking of doing this socket replacement. My blinkers don't even come on and no hazards. Occasionally if the headlights are on the left indicator on the inside shows up solid. There is power to the socket and I'm using brand new bulbs (2057A) but they when bulb is placed in socket I get no light or blinkers. I've checked my fuse (turn signal/backup) in the fuse box under the dash and swapped out the blinker/hazard fuses. So what do you guys think is my problem?

I had a gas leak on mine and it was the main gasket going in on the passenger side that had rotted. I went ahead and replaced the pump and some rubber gas lines while I was at it. I saved the old pump also just in case

Will do. Thanks

Pete, that link above is very informative. Thanks. It's like the Bible for the Comanche lol