azscott

....it takes impacts very well. The standard version (aromatic) is very flexible so it won't crack and it is very tough as far as say...scrapes. If it is put on similar to a thickness of spray on liners it is very tough to ever cut through. As for the stucco comment....funny..I thought the same thing :brows: scott

I decided to line the entire body of my Comanche with Grizzly Grip truck bedliner. I bought this 89 about a month ago....it's purpose was to haul me and my ATV out to the Bradshaws instead of tearing up my F-250 Super Duty. Darn turbo diesels just hate all that dust...plus the raods just rattle them Fords to pieces. I had no desire to restore the Jeep...mainly because it is going to get the heck beat out of it with what i will be using it for. On the other hand, the paint was faded and there was minor body damage that I just did not care to look at. So, I decided the best route was bedliner. A full paint job was not worth my time and would just get the typical Arizona pinstriping from all of the brush we push through. I have used Grizzly Grip before on the lower panels on my Ford. Worked great, very durable and holds up better than Herculiner. If you put it on in 3 coats it is about as tough as Rhino liner accept you can do this yourself. More so, I like Grizzly Grip, or Durabak would work, as they have many color options. Since my MJ was desert tan to begin with I chose Grizzlies Desert tan as color of choice. Mainly because I am not pulling the darn bed off and if I chose a color that was way off ( I was gonna go with yellow) you would see the painted areas behind the bed and between the cab I could not reach. By using a similar color you cannot notice it. It was an almost identical match actually. I was going to pull the fender flares but I fought with one for an hour and said screw it....I will tape around them. I pulled off what I could that did not require a big battle and taped the rest. If I was doing a fram off resto I would have yanked it all but...my goal was to have a nice looking unique truck without spending 4 weeks getting there. Now the nice thing about this is it can be sprayed...or rolled on. I rolled it on. Alot less mess and looks the same as sprayed...if you take your time and are not a pig :no: I sanded the entire truck with a random orbit sander and 60 grit. Then quickly wet sanded it with 120 and soapy water just to get off any residue and to get in places the orbital would not reach. Next , and most importantly, I wiped it all down with Acetone making sure to not get any acetone on any plastic. Finally I taped off the trim and fenders etc. now since it is rolled on you just need to tape off the edges around the glass. Any Grizzly Goo that drips on the glass will wipe off with a rag soaked with Xylene ( which I keep in my other hand). This is nice as you do not have to now put paper over all the windows. Any splatter that got on the glass or exposed plastic was easily wiped off with Xylene ( and ONLY XYLENE)...Acetone will eat some plastics. Image Not Found Next was simple...roll on two coats of Grizzly Grip. It needs a hardener if the humidity is below 45 % and since I live near phoenix well..that is almost always a sure thing. So...I added a little hardener. You roll on the first coat a little light..not too light but you do not want a heavy first coat. This is allowed to dry for 2-3 hours or so. I closed my garage door and sprayed water in the garage to eevate humidity as this product sets with humidity...and even with the hardener this helps speed it up...ALOT. After this set I mixed up the final coat. This last coat I mixed in the bottle of UV protectant to help keep it from fading...added more hardener and off I went. The second coat goes a little heavier...again not slopped on but thicker than the first and it is important to roll it on even and watch for globs, drips or thin spots. You want an even coat that looks sprayed on!!. I also used a stiff brush to stiple in the areas that the roller would not reach. You do not PAINT it in with brush strokes as this will smear and look like crap....rather you dab or more correctly stipple with a brush. Once the final coat was done I let this et about an hour or until it is just starting to feel dry. Reason is you need to get the tape off and breaking the tape off at the edges is a pain when the stuff is dry. I use an exacto blade to score along the tape edges where it meets the Bedliner otherwise the tape will not break cleanly. I removed all the tape....used Xylene and cleaned any minor drips and....was done. Looks alot better than when I brought it home!!! Total cost for the Grizzly Grip and all the chemicals, rollers, and such was about 3 bills. I ordered more than i needed so about 65 bucks was over run...but I may use it somewhere else. Some people do not like the looks of the textured products so there is a fine or smooth version available...unfortunately not in Desert tan...from Grizzly. I did see that Durabak has all their colors available in smooth texture for an extra fee. You can do more than 2 coats if you like. When I do the bed (in black) I will do 3 coats which will get me closer to what a commercial sprayed on liner would be in thickness. I just do not need a 3/16 thick paint job on the body. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Scott

Coll..I was thinking along the same lines....O2 was my first choice..but I also was looking at the EGR...but was not sure how to test it. I will unplug the line and plug it up and see what happens. The O2 I will replace if I have to...little buggers ain't cheap:-) scott

This has been a minor issue. This is on an 89 MJ 4.0 5 speed. When i first start her up...it start fine...the after a few seconds the idle will drop low..around 500 or so. It will not stall out...almost..but not wuite. Let it sit and idle for 3-5 minutes and the idle will come back up to around 900 or so and be fine. Let it sit and cool for 5-10 minutes..or longer and it will do the same thing. I know the IAC is good (replaced it) the MAP is fine...no vacuum leaks ( which should cause it idle high usually anyway). I did check the TPS sensor and adjusted it...did not make much of a difference at all. A ANy ideas? It is not a huge problem I would just like to finger it out. scott

I have used Grizzly Grip roll/spray on bedliner several times with great success. Currently I am getting ready to do my entire 89 MJ. It seems to me to be tougher and more durable than Herculiner although about 25.00 more a gallon. It rolls os so nice that unless you need to spray..for some reason...I would roll it on. I have it on the lower panels of my wifes Super Duty 250 and have had many compliments on it especially since people think it is a spray on Rhino. Now ALL spray on liners will fade somewhat...yes even Rhino will...but Grizzly now has a satin or gloss UV coating to keep it shiny..if that is your thing. Their liner material comes with UV protection anyway ( a bottle you mix in with the last coat) but the clear overcoat will keep it shiny if you desire. Also there is Durabak..which to me is identical to Grizzly Grip. The key is surface prep. Do it correctly and it will last as good as any spray on. Cut corners and rush it...it will fail just as any Spray on. I had a truck with a Rhino that peeled...the shop cheaped on surface prep. Main difference I see is spray ons are about twice as thick...which simply is due to application method. If you want a thick coat...do NOT roll it on thicker...rather use 3 or 4 coats instead of 2. Here is a link.....and they have tons of colors. Also both have smooth or fine textured versions instead of the more standard rough texture. My floors are fine but...I may coat the interior as well..but for that I may go with a smooth finsish. Look at both Durabak and Grizzly....if for no other reason than options. Look at this pics submitted by other CJ owners. http://www.grizzlygrip.com/ http://www.durabakcompany.com/

...That is kinda how I figured it. Bleed it with engine off. Then start it up with the sensor just loose enough to bleed off air while it runs under pressure. Kinda like bleeding air off of my pressure tank on my pool:-) I have the service manual but it just says to keep filling the pressure bottle...i could not see how that would ever get all the air out. Thanks.....time to get cover in coolant. Scott

...o.k....is this with the engine off? I would have assumed so..accept with the engine off I would not expect air and fluid to come out of the temp sesnor as you unthread it? Just being sure. scott

I searched the How to Forums..may have missed it but. How do you flush this type of system. Then how do you fill it back up..properly and then burp out the air. Seems this system, if done wrong, would lend itself to air bubble problems etc. I know many have swapped to an open system but that is not in the financial cards JUST YET:-) The previous owner did not run much if any coolant..looks like straight water...judging by the rusty color of the coolant. I do not have overheating issues as of the moment but...I want to flush out whatever the PO had been running. Heck I HOPE he was smart enough to atleast use distilled water...but I am not too sure. Anyway, any guidance would be a great help. I have bookmarked the swap to an open system but that is a few months away. By the way this in an 89 Comanche Sport 4.0L scott