Angry_bucktooth

I live in Connecticut the coldest I've seen it in 24 years has been -10 after a wind chill factor

Just to be clear -- you are "all right," but you're not "fine." Your idle pressure is below spec. That's to be expected on an old, probably high mileage engine, but the reason we expect it is that we expect moving parts to wear. While the minimum idle oil pressure is 13 psi, most healthy Jeep engines idle at around 20 to 25 psi. So you have some early warning signs -- IMHO you should start considering either dropping the pan and replacing the main bearings (or all the bearings, while you're in there), or start looking for a spare engine you can rebuild while the one you have still runs. As others have commented, oil weight also matters. When my '88 went over 200,000 miles and the oil pressure started reading a bit lower than what it had been, I switched to Mobil-1 full synthetic in 15W50 weight, then I went over to Castrol 5W50. My oil pressure in the '88 still isn't where it was when new, but I'm now at 287,000 miles and I'm still within factory specs. What do you recommend for oil I have always done 5w30 in all vehicles during the winter months and 10w30 in summer. I have yet to do an oil change normally I did one every other month alot of work driving but I got laid off then hired at a new company with company vehicle.. I was going to use the motor medic motor flush at next oil change and then run 10w30 since I've read it can be better but I've seen 5w50 10w40 10w30 all different opinions the most common seems to be 10w30 that's why I was gonna use it next oil change also my jeep has 118000 miles on it the p/o said motor was rebuilt at 80k (her mechanic said it was best to do all gaskets and clean). So I have low miles for my 88 also 10psi is a quests since its between the 0 and first line at idle I have yet to run a mechanical gauge for a more accurate reading

That's a relief to know so I am alright and done have to worry about damage. Line I said in my first post it's really not a concern till I see zero and it doesn't move. So no I feel more comfortable driving. Also could I be a little below spec since when I turn my key to the on position the needle goes a little before zero line it got bumped to low in shipping

So I've tried researching this and I've found some kind of answers but nothing exactly. Our trucks at start up have about 40-50 for oil pressure and at idle it drops to about 10 right. I'm asking cause my truck on start up goes to 40/50 and when driving on the highway stays about 40 but when I drive around town it fluctuates between 20 and 40 and at idle it sits at about 10. My truck is an 1988 pioneer 2.5l 5spd 4x4. Sorry if this question has been asked all I can find it's stuff about the senders being the wrong ones (cluster swap) and I saw one post from eagle that kinda said my oil pressure was normal but wasn't real clear. I just wanna make sure it's fine or if I got a problem. Until it's sits at zero I'm not to worried but rather have no worry

So I drained my tranny and it's came out thick looking like a pound of glitter got poured in. The tranny my buddy have me came with clutch slave master pressure plate flywheel everything needed to replace my tranny and upgrade to external

Well he told me it still has clutch fork and pin and newer clutch so I'm going external I just need to buy a slave do I need to swap the master cause how it mounts is different in the two years

So if it comes with the bell housing and has the clutch fork, pin, I should be able to buy a clutch kit for that year to acquire the rest of the parts. And my master is new I still need to change it? Also if I need it faster can I mount my bell housing and keep it internal. I know external is easier and I have a work truck but I wanna try to swap it over a weekend (2days)

I believe it's a 2.5l since its the ax5 tranny and the guy who has the tranny knows what my specs are. Why

So if I understand correctly I can just swap the tcase and it will bolt right up and give me an external slave.

The truck specs are listed as an 1988 2.5l 5spd. And by base tranny I mean a ax5 without bell housing and tcase. Just the tranny with 1-5 gears. His a out of a 2000Xj so I know it has an external slave so it probably has a different bell and that year doesn't have vacuum disco lines or speedo cable where mine does. So I'm curios if I swap the bell housing and utilize the internal slave and swap the tcase if I can use that ax5. Of jeep the bell housing with the external slave and just swap the tcase if that would also work

Okay so my plan is this weekend to drain and refill my tranny see how that does. I'm getting the tranny from my friend Friday. So from what ive been able to find I can use the tranny he has which is from a 2000 Xj I may just have to use my existing bell housing my internal slave set up and my 231 tcase since it all changed in 95. But the base tranny is the same. Can anyone confirm or deny that's the 2000xj base tranny will work I may just have to swap some parts. Also the tranny is only costing me 100 only one I've found so don't wanna miss

Yellow metal safe oil. I've been reading alot about redline90 I believe Also my buddy has a ax5 but it's from a 2000Xj if I swap the tcases on them would I be able to use it since my tcase has the speedo cable and vacuum lines

I have the mini Console that's easy to remove also my cover on the floor the inner shift boot or whatever it is is gone so I was curious about filling through the shifter hole

I have the mini Council that's easy to remove also my cover on the floor the intercepted or whatever it is is gone so I was curious about filling through the shifter hole

Impulse that's the exact thread I just found my plan is to locate both when I get home

Where is the drain on a ax5

Master, hydraulic line, slave, clutch, pressure, flywheel, all got replaced the same time about a year ago. I may do a clutch job this weekend but someone told me due to symptoms it's not the clutch my tranny is shot. So i am trying to get as much info as possible

So with the symptoms I'm having do you thinks it's a clutch kit needed or tranny. Maybe they used the right one. It took them a couple tries when I had the shop do the work

The truck 1988 jeep comanche pioneer Olympic edition Specs 2.5l 5spd (ax5) D30/35 (4.10) 4x4 5inch lift. The problem. I was going to my girls which is about 8 miles away. As I get off the highway I realize it doesn't wanna shift into 5th with out some love. So as I round the corner to ber place I hear a whine in 1st and 2nd. (i parked it we went out in her car) 3 hours later I get back in the mj to go home. Once again hear a whine in 1st and 2nd goes away with speed. Get on the highway and doesn't wanna go into 5th at all. I get off the exit and go to shift into 2nd/3rd(can't remember) but it doesn't wanna go into any gear I come to a complete stop at the bottom of my hill and pushed the pedal as far as physically possible might of pumped it and I got into first made it up my hill got out of first no problem and into reverse no problem. Back into my spot and now can't get it out of reverse. In addition the truck has under 118000 miles. The clutch kit is less then a year old and maybe 10000 on it. My pedal is stiff(engaging right away maybe a half inch of play) but I think the shop out in a clutch kit for a ba10 instead of an ax5 if it makes a difference. So sorry for the long post tried to be as detailed as possible looking for any insight or answers is it My clutch or my whole tranny.

Any problems with the rear leafs once you installed them I measured the ones they sent me eye to eye and they are like 51 inches also someone posted on another forum it made his shackle lay flat forward on the frame part number ropcom35-0 for leafs

https://www.google.com/search?q=cad+front+axle&client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDlLSKltrKAhVDn4MKHTT8BcoQ_AUIBygB#tbm=isch&q=4wd+indicator+lamp+switch+jeep+comanche&imgrc=nRMZ6kRVyXEI3M%3A And that's the indicator I have on my passenger side fender. Raining by me so used Google to get the images

https://www.google.com/search?q=cad+front+axle&client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDlLSKltrKAhVDn4MKHTT8BcoQ_AUIBygB#tbm=isch&q=cad+front+axle+jeep+comanche&imgrc=5XAVhs4yoSGe5M%3A Not sure if the link will work but that's how my axle looks.

Yea I don't have that on my system I can try to get a picture of it tomorrow but it's a solid housing with no hex

If it helps I have the indicator switch that is mounted on the passenger side fender with the blue cap.

So I went and looked and could not see any unconnected wires. Couldn't even see a spot they would connect to. I checked all around the cad and the rest of the axle