docivy

Is this a 2.5 or 2.8

The duct insulation. It works great but if you put it on the floor pan under the floor mats it won't hold up

It doesn't hold up well to being beat on by your feet. I always wrap the transmission tunnel, doors, above the head liner, basically anything I ever take down to the metal

Idk about that specific insulation but I have used hvac duct insulation in every vehicle I have owned to keep the heat and noise out. Its pretty cheap

Dang O.O

If it makes no difference you probably have a leak

Or a 1310 to 1330 u joint and the explorer flange

I just built a new bumper with one in it

Go weber!!! Just put one on and its soooooooo much better

Its just a tube that runs from the opening on the manifold shield to the bottom of the air filter housing. Really not a big deal if it isn't there. Just plug the vacuum line to the actuator for the door that goes to it.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/homemade-rear-bumper-3287249/#post30878041 Couldn't get photos to upload again. There's one on this thread. I made the tag bracket out of 3/4"x1/8" flat bar and scrap from angling the tube ends

The pin goes behind the bumper, I used a 2.5" to 2" reducer from WalMart. It was predrilled and ready to go. I cut 3" off the long side then just set it flush with the outside.

I appreciate it, I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Especially for $75 in materials.

well thanks! I'm using my phone, i imagine thats why i couldnt get it to work.

Wouldn't let me put one up so I put the URL in for one

Ok guys I was looking around and wasn't to enthused with prices on aftermarket bumpers. When I bought the truck it came with a bumper sitting in the bed so I just robbed the brackets off of it and plated them up. Nabbed some 2"x5"x.25" tube from the local scrap yard and made a complete bumper with flush mount receiver, recovery points, and an adjustable tag bracket. I know I will get a hard time for the tag but I really wanted it up and away from things I might potentially back it into or scrap it on.

Just read through it. I will definitely get that done when I get home!

Yup, would the 2 barrel Weber be the best option for replacement? Previous owner pulled the smog pump and blocked allot of vacuum lines. It's so bad I'm hoping to remove all of them but the distributor advance and brake booster vacuuum lines. Is it possible to do?

Hey guys when I turn my headlights on the gas light comes on immediately and the gas gauge goes to zero. It appears to be reading fine with the lights off though. What should I be looking for?

Honestly I figured that is what most would say. Regardless I have to do the carb soon. This thing is a vacuum line nightmare. Not a single piece of rubber hose is good.

Hey guys I've been researching because I want to rebuild/refresh the 2.8 in my recently acquired mj, I will be swapping a Weber 2 barrel with electric choke in due to the birds nest of broken/missing vacuum lines in it. That way it simplifies the vacuum system. The big question is....since the tbi version of this engine that's in the s10 has larger valves in the heads would it be worth it to swap a rebuilt pair into it while its apart? I'm going to the ARI stage 2 cam as well.