Anteru

could be like what i ran into, I had bad sockets coupled with some bad grounding. I wound up pulling the loom out in the front and checking each wire and found some very poorly shielded ground wires. I have the schematics for the wiring of the front if you want me to scan it. though i am sure there are some folks here that have it already on hand :).

figured it out, busted the exhaust push rod. time for a top end rebuild.

so this winter when it was super cold, I tried starting up the Comanche. it started idling really really rough and shook like crazy when i hit the the gas. now it is making the noise in the video. any thoughts from you seasoned comanche veterans?

I have started carrying a pack like that since hunting season started, going to keep it in there from now on i think. I also can't believe I forgot recovery gear! gonna have to put that in there :P

One thing my grandpa taught me is to always keep a box in your vehicle filled with stuff you may need. He used to call it the "Happy Car Kit". So I adapted it to the "Happy Truck Kit" Here is a list of what i keep in mine 1 30cal ammo can with tools 1 hammer 2qts of oil 1qt trans fluid 1 roll of duct tape 1 bag of zip ties 1 small can of WD-40 1 Gallon jug of water 1 small jug of washer fluid some rags pair of gloves 1 itchy army wool blanket all of this goes in a locking water proof trunk. For my wife's car i have something similar, but its in a milk crate in the trunk. What is in your Happy Truck Kit?

there is a difference between textbook and practice. tried what you just mentioned, did not work, they are on there. i did notice your post, My brother is a mechanic and is going to do it for me for cheap.

well after hours of hammering, slide hammering, swearing and desperate pleading, I am throwing in the towel. I can't get those stupid hubs off to save my life and the wheel nuts are rusted on so bad that nothing short of the hulk is going to get them loose. I am going to admit defeat and pay to have a mechanic give it a shot.

no, i was changing out the fluid in the front diff along with pulling the axle shafts. I just noticed that pin and was not thinking clearly. being pissed off at the jeep wasnt helping my troubleshooting :P.

no, thought better of it, got the pin to drift out but noticed it won't clear the gear. so I put it back. I can't for the life of me get that damn axle out, it won't move. I am going to see if i can rent a slide hammer tomorrow from Autozone.

well now i am stuck, i can't seem to get the drift pin holding the large pin holding the c-clips in place. was really really hoping it was a bolt but i am not so lucky. any recomendations on getting it to move? i have tried a punch and wailing on it with a hammer. nothing is making that little turd move.

For what its worth, my gauge was stuck at 1/2, turns out the gauge itself was bad. Swapped out the gauge cluster (as i had the crummy one with no temp or oil pressure gauges) and that resolved the issue.

i can answer a few here 2. Renix refers to a French auto manufacturer that helped build some bits that were installed in the early Comanches. read more about it here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renix 4. my guess for the fix on the speedo would be to find a new speedometer gear, as far as which one you would need to get your speedo to correctly read again i do not know. some of the folks on here will be better help with that.

by clips, do you mean in the diff? or clips for the u-joints themselves?

i didnt know the wheel bearings arent serviceable. they seem ok, no noise or wobbling. I will give the 12 point bolt method to get the shafts out, I just need to get the u-joints replaced for now so i can drive it for hunting season. next year or so i am going to do a complete front end rebuild when i put the lift on.

working underneath my Pioneer the other day and I noticed the axle shaft u-joints are shot. Anybody have good pointers or words of wisdom for when I do the swap? Gonna re-pack my wheel bearings while I have it all apart.

got my gauge cluster from an '89, to avoid any issues with the odometer, i just pulled the old one out and installed it into the new cluster. the back bolt holes didn't match up so i had to do a little bit of fabrication work. looks ugly as hell but i am the only one that knows that it is there.

problem is I live in Montana, so most jeeps are picked clean or the junk yards ask way WAY too much money. its easier to buy new. I found what I needed at AutoZone actually for reasonably cheap. Napa didn't have anything and neither did O'reiley's either place I was looking at 2-4 day delivery time for a higher price.

To add to this, the oil pressure and coolant temperature mechanical gauges remained consistent throughout the MJ years and the same senders are used on both the Renix and HO clusters for these two gauges. The only exception is the oil pressure sensor for the 92 MJs as they had a 2-wire sensor vs. the older single wire sensor. The best way to find the correct sender you need is to come in armed with the factory part number. Most auto parts chain stores have an accurate cross reference for factory-to-aftermarket part numbers. It's better than depending on the counter parts drone and his often flawed database. Factory MJ p/n's are as follows for the temp and oil pressure gauge senders: 56026782, SENDING UNIT, Oil Pressure, 86-91 56026779, SENDING UNIT, Oil Pressure, 92 (2-pin connector) 53005309, SENDING UNIT, Temperature, w/Gauge, 86-91 56027012, SENDING UNIT, Temperature, 92 Dude, you are a life saver. thanks! I'll hit up Napa tomorrow.

Napa and autozone, both places wanted to sell me some 80 dollar sending unit telling me i would have to rewire it to my gauge cluster :/. I know better.

I am also swapping out my gauge cluster, having a hell of a time finding the proper sensors at any of the auto parts stores or online. Was there a year range or model of Comanche that had the full or 3/4 cluster? This may help track down the proper gauge sending units when searching online. this seems like a pretty generic part that fits most vehicles. but when I search for "88 Comanche Poineer" it pulls sensors for lights, not gauges.

even just eyeballing it i can tell that the passenger tire toes out just a little. while i had it on jack stands i inspected for worn ball joins and bearings and no wobblyness. so at least i know that isnt the problem. i should have pointed out here that i did measure, a ton. did the string on jack stands method along with some levels strapped to the tires across the center. so much measuring and re-measuring. the end result isnt perfect by any means, but it does not immediately veer off to the left when i drive on a level road. there is an ever so slight pull now to the left, but its drivable until i get new tires.

I see a problem right there. You don't understand wheel alignment. It is not possible for the passenger tire to toe out -- a little or a lot. The toe specification is a measure of the distance between the two tires, and it has nothing to do with the vehicle body, centerline, or side. The theoretical ideal is zero toe. If the fronts of the tires are farther apart than the rears, they are toed out. If the rears are father apart than the fronts, they are toed in. This is measured directly between the tires, or by high-priced equipment that takes angle measurements and computes the toe (in or out). Zero is ideal, but that means zero when driving down the road with the friction between the tires and the road pushing against all the components of the front end, each of which has some minimal amount of slop. To allow for that, we build in a small amount of toe-in when doing a static alignment, figuring that the road friction will take up the slop and the result will be close to zero on the road. Doing a shade-tree, tape measure alignment, we typically look for 1/16" to 1/8" of toe-IN -- the distance between the fronts of the tires should be less than the distance between the rears. You adjust the toe-in to spec, then move the vehicle until it's moving straight forward and back. Then if the steering wheel isn't centered, you adjust the drag link to center the wheel. Toe rarely causes pulling, because toe is a symmetrical setting. Pull is caused by uneven tire pressure, mismatched tires, sagging springs, caster, or camber. Oh -- and you absolutely cannot tell by eyeballing it if the tires are toed in or out, unless the amount is massive. The flares are not parallel to the vehicle centerline, and the flare edges are the natural visual reference. It's deceptive. You MUST measure. after quite a bit of research and some help from my brother, we managed to get it to the point where it is pulling very little. my goal here is to get it drivable until i can put some better tires on it (at which point i will pay for an alignment if it isnt included, which it usually is at costco) my brother said the same thing about my lack of knowledge. I am a computer nerd and vehicle mechanics are a new concept to me, so please be gentle.

even just eyeballing it i can tell that the passenger tire toes out just a little. while i had it on jack stands i inspected for worn ball joins and bearings and no wobblyness. so at least i know that isnt the problem.

i do not but my brother used to be a mechanic and has no shortage of tools. perhaps i should bribe him with a 6 pack of IPA :)

my next step is to swap the front tires and see if it keeps pullin.