Thiefcatcher

Sorry...been distracted with work and what not. well...they weren't reading correctly after I moved them so I let the vehicle warm up and adjusted the needle which was reading 0 to 200 and I moved the pull pressure guage to normal position. That seemed to help. I also picked up a IR heat gun and checked my engine temp just to make me feel more comfortable...best thirty bucks I've spent...and it's got a laser pointer

or you could have debris in the tank, filter, fuel rail....etc etc

after it dies check the Schrader valve if you haven't done that already...you should still have fuel pressure...if you don't your issue is either in the pump control voltage or the pump itself

have you checked your fuel pressure? My GC with the 4.0 got a new pump and that fixed my issue.

I was cleaning dust out of the inside of my cluster when I brushed the temperature and oil pressure gauges. Now they don't read correctly. Do they just need to be rehomed to work properly? Didn't see this in the forum when I searched Thanks in advance

I took apart my harness at the firewall and cleaned both sides of the connector and it helped immeasurably. If you havent examined the junction it's pretty easy to get apart to examine it. The metal terminals won't erode the way the plastic does. So if you find that your plastic has degraded with the introduction of clutch master cylinder fluid (which is DOT 3 brake fluid) it's a good three to four hours of cleaning and you'll want to replace the leaky clutch cylinder. Then it will work again. Just take your time cleaning it. Its amazing how much black gooey crap can get all over your connectors in that firewall junction. If you don't want to separate that junction to check you can check the firewall in the cab and you'll probably be able to see a stain from where the fluid is leaking down.

They share a common ground and you'll still get power in the circuit even with a bad ETR fuse (that still reads good). In the end it may be a simple issue of the contacts in the ETR block bending over time.

I just went through my entire harness....in the end the ETR fuse on your block also controls the clock and radio. Mine was old but tested good. I switched it with my clock radio fuse and voila...it worked. The fuse tested good but try To switch in a new one.

Thanks!The wire was abraided and had broken free...it's not hooked up to anything on my truck at that connector so I wrapped it up and tucked it away.

Found it...it was the green with black tracer wire from the connection behind the drivers side headlight

Relay tests good..I'm going to have to chase down a short in my dash...

http://www.carparts.com/details/Dodge/Dakota/Replacement/Tail_Light/1993/TRI4716.html?TID=80000000CP&origin=pla&CP=1&CP_SRC=PPC&003=27372932&010=cp379008c27e46830386d571e22fc31275&gclid=CPyI_9DG9MMCFaRi7AodmTIARQ&c_aid=47785412013&c2cid=d8ae0354-a033-4228-90db-62d0ad2b954e Correction....a whopping 18$ each......Lol

Thanks They are mid nineties dak replacement tail lights... I got them on a auto supply website and they cost 44.99.

Thanks guys...it's a labor of love...yeah the 97 center console is nice...if it's a bolt in I may go hunt one down later on.... next up is adding disc brakes to the bacj axle once I get all my writing completed.

Small gap at bottom will be even smaller when I put some steel behind it and cinch it down

Small gap at top...haven't decided how I want to fill it

What she looked like before...just after dash removal

Limited space in my garage and that is the rough fit...I'll get some more pictures on my day off