rustybottoms88

Still for sale. Willing to trade for parts or combination of parts I need such as: Tj Rubicon wheels or JK Wheels with wheel adapters, 87-90 XJ Full Gauge cluster, 4x4 shifter center console for MJ with steering column shifter and bench seat, set of MJ or XJ manual doors, spare R12 a/c compressor, XJ or MJ front winch bumper, winch, locker for D30, 2.5 to 3 inch lift kit for MJ, 31-10.5 tires, ZJ steering gear , V8 ZJ draglink and tie rod and JK shocks.

Ok. I can rebuild a stock box myself, the reason i questioned it was that alot of times I think I am saving money by doing things myself when in reality I could of bought new for not much more money and alot less headache. But if the rebuilt boxes possibly have the slower ratio I can justify a Saturday rebuilding a junkyard box, if it needs it. I need to rebuild my CJ box anyways so it will be good practice as they are probably similar. Thanks for all the input!

Awesome thank you for the follow up. I considered picking up a Junkyard piece but it will undoubtedly need new seals at the least. Is a rebuild much of a headache? A rebuildt unit from Rock Auto is $107.00. Depending on what a used unit from the yard cost a reseal kit is $20. What you guys think? Edit: Here is a great video on how to rebuild the gear box. https://youtu.be/661ov4GIXAA

I have a 1989 mj with 4.0L and auto trans. What year XJ's will work to do the full guage cluster swap and it be direct swap in besides changing the sensors?

well that was easy. Ever do my Tip 3? Yes and it was needed, especially the headlight plug. Yuck!

Back from the dead. My Mj steering gear it puking fluid. Hornbrod you still happy with the ZJ steering box?

Coil plugin was loose.

I got the coil in yesterday and installed it. The coil connector must not be for my model jeep because I could not see where it would go?? Anyways its running good and the A/C is blowing cold. I am beginning to think about dragging the amc20 up to the house and begin working on it, I have had it stored in the barn. Hope I don't jenix myself with such thoughts.

Tough love from the MJ. How did the chain look?

I should of been buying some of these parts from Rock Auto. I got the better Standard brand coil and the connector for $25 shipped. Orielllys wants $50 just for the coil. I had stopped buying from Rock Auto awhile back because the shipping from multiple locations for multiple parts was killing the deal but i guess they have improved on that.

Oh I am pretty darn happy! I drove it to Fayetteville and back Sunday with no problems. I have also been driving it all this week. It will run alittle rich every now and then but for the most part it will get me where I need to go. I am going to order a new coil from Rockauto. Should I replace the Coil connecter while I am at it? Is it common to replace them in pairs? See coil connector below: WiscoXJ you better get your A/C going soon its warming up!

I actually think we have a few agent job openings in Arkansas. Not the best paying job in the world but its fun. My tow/DD is a 2005 but the one I was calling my project Powerstroke is a 1996 F350 4x4 single cab Flatbed. I got it from the original owner. 307K miles on the clock. Drove the comanche yesterday and today so far so good.....I even ran the a/c some today :)

Thats what I am thinking, I priced a new coil on Orielly's if the wife and I use this think for some over night trips kinda like "overlanding" type trips I want it to be RELIABLE. I saw in the classifieds that a guy has a reworked harness. I think I am going to have to sell my project Powerstroke in order to do get this thing done before this coming winter. I work for the Cooperative Extension service as a Agriculture agent for my county. Its hard to explain so here is a video. lol https://youtu.be/94IA5mJCUOQ

Glad to hear you got yours running. The IAC valve was one of the first things I replaced and as you have seen its been one think after another. I drive it a hundred miles or so and its something else. I hope my problem was just a loose connection but I am afraid it maybe a weak coil.

Installed new MAP sensor and no change. I ran the battery down trying to get it started. So I used my Superduty to jump it and it finally fired off, it was still blowing white smoke out the tailpipe running rich just as before. I tinkered with it abit. Checked vacuum and got out the test light and checked a few loose wires. I finally start jiggling wiring over on the passenger fender well and as soon as I touched the 3 pin plugin that goes into the coil mount it died. I unplugged it and the other plugin and checked them out they looked fine tho, i had unpugged and cleaned them at the very beginning of this debacle. I plugged both back in made sure they were secure and then started the truck with little trouble. I went back and jiggled wires again and it did not die. So as of today it is running fine. A rough dirt road and time will tell I guess. Is everyone asleep yet? haha

Replaced Tb gasket and refreshed grounds. Still running like crap, running rich and flooding like the Mississippi. Going to install a new MAP sensor this evening and see what happens.

Sorry my name is misleading and I didn't state the year model of the truck in question, it is a 89 so no C101 connector.

Its me again! I am still having problems. I have replaced: injectors, fuel pressure regulator, CTS, TPS, CPS, rear vac harness, cleaned the TB, new TB to intake gasket, several new fuel filters, valve cover gasket, refreshed grounds twice and have also done #'s 1.3.4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,25 of cruisers Renix tips. All of these have made improvements but still not out of the woods yet. It seems to run fine from a cold start but once it gets to operating temp it will develop a slight miss that progresses into a rough idle then a random stall and flooding which results in a very hard to start condition. Come back the next day and it will start back sometimes after some cranking. Turn it off and it will start right back until it warms up and the cycle continues. Could this be a MAP sensor problem?

How is the idle when in park? Does it idle in gear after it is coaxed into the initial gear engagement?

Well I put the MJ through its paces yesterday and today, about 150 miles. Yesterday it began to stumble at idle and it would die after you started it and put it in gear. I drove it home and dropped it off. Today I thought I would give it another shot as I didn't have as much driving to do. It ran fine until I was driving down a dirt road to a farmers house to calibrate his sprayer and it randomly died on me about 4 times. I had noticed a hissing noise from under the hood yesterday. When I looked under the hood I found that the hissing was coming from the base of the throttle body, as best I can tell. So I have ordered up a new TB base gasket and will see if that helps, I probably should of done that when i cleaned the TB. I think I will also clean up the senors grounds again since I have stopped the valve cover from puking oil on to them. To Be Continued......

After some ordering confusion at the parts store I finally got the new coolant sensor. I changed it out lastnight. That thing is pretty well hidden behind the motor mount bracket. I had to make a custom wrench to get in there alittle easier to tighten the new sensor into the block. After the new sensor was installed I drove the truck to the end of the road and back and it did fine. The idle is lower and it doesnt seem to run as rich and randomly die once it gets to operating temp. Just to be safe i had the wife follow me into work with the car today and it made it to my office fine. I guess the only sensors left to replace are the MAP, IAT and the O2 sensor. Maybe they will hold out another few thousand miles.........I am going to drive it a few weeks and see what happens.

You might think about just driving it during the day until you get headlights. Lol

I tested the coolant sensor and its reading at about 2200 at about 70 degrees and 333 at operating temp. From what I read that is about 1000 off at 70 degrees and 700 off at operating temp. Its only $18 bucks from the parts store so I am going to order one and see if that helps. I need to get this thing going! My diesel truck is laughing at my gas money budget.

Ya lol I maybe I should just go ahead and delete the EGR just to be safe. I will have to look into how to do that but I am going to guess its just a matter of removing EGR and components and plugging holes.

Been awhile since I have checked out your build, you have gotten alot done. Looks good. BTW I have a pair of electric doors I would def swap for some manuals! The prob is I am in Arkansas and your in Wisconsin. lol