zfinger

Well, pulled the trigger and bought a 2000 XJ with 140k, back and tan interior, and an automatic. Got her to the shop today and got the interior gutted. Tomorrow the drivetrain comes out along with the dash. Hopefully buy the end of next week the a MJ will be a fresh 2000!

NOTE: You will need two of these new LED compatible flashers to make your blinkers actually blink.

Did that too

How? You gonna press the ball out and press in a new one? Or by replacing the whole bracket?

No, the ball doesn't appear to be replaceable. The ball on mine was also worn down which didn't help. The NAPA cable had a much tighter fit and would have worked regardless, but I got out the TIG rig and built up the flat spot again.

Got a different cable from NAPA and it snapped right on. The O'Reilly cable was a junk part.

1990 Comanche 4.0L 5-speed 4x4 I'm in the process of replacing my throttle cable (the short cable, not the long option). The O'Reillys cable I got, when I snap it onto the ball, its super sloppy and loose. Couple pumps of the gas pedal and it pops right off the ball. Anyone else had this issue? NAPA has a cable on its way for me, hopefully it isn't the same BS. I compared the two cables side by side and the new one is much more open like it accepts a bigger ball.

The paint came on the truck, I'm planning on just a regular snow camo. Needs to be presentable as a work truck. I'm 5' 8", they're super comfortable! They are taller than the bench seat, but not too tall. Bumper also came on the truck, looks like a Smittybilt or something. Could be custom?

Current progress on the Willys And Little Big Truck is on the road!

It seems like the issue is somewhere on the back of the cluster. I wedged little cuts of wire behind the tabs on the plug and plugged the cluster back in. Oil pressure now works, volts still works, coolant temp is at the bottom of the gauge (not maxed anymore), but also doesn't appear to be reading. And the fuel gauge is still maxed out. I picked up http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/2397/10002/-1 these gauges from Jegs, but I'm not sure where the best place is to put the coolant temp sensor. Any advise? Got this http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/10561/10002/-1 too because my aux fan still isn't kicking on. Did a dual kit with these on my 240sx to run the electric fans.

Just got the floor painted with a product called Durabak. Its my first time using it, but I like it better than Herculiner. Feels harder and like it bonded better. Ordered light gray but it looks like white to me. Also just picked up this little jalopy on a trade. 1959 Willys with a 307 V8. She runs, drives and has a title! I'll be doing some body work and selling her off ASAP.

Well, I found no ground wires down by the parking brake. I cleaned all the contacts on the back of the cluster, cleaned where the harness plugs in too. Got the fuel gauge working for a minute but not the temp gauge. Then the fuel gauge went back to max and temp gauge still did nothing. Grounds at the cluster tested good too. I'm stumped and getting pissed. Time for a new gauge cluster?

I tried flipping the plug, only goes in one way. I found in the cherokee forums it could be a bad ground down by the parking break, which I just removed.

I painted my cab floor and did some interior cleaning. Once I put my gauge cluster back in and turned the truck on, my gauges maxed out and won't read. Oil pressure was maxed and not working before this. Now my fuel gauge and coolent temp gauges are maxed. Volts still reads correctly. I tried pulling the clucter back out, didn't work. I tried disconnecting the battery (only long enough to remove/reintall the cluster again), didn't work. I even tried taking off the clear plastic and turning them back by hand. Turned the key and they went back to max. WTF is going on here?

The truck came with that paint job, which if I was still 18 I'd like. This is a work/company truck for me, so she'll be getting a re-spray to something more presentable and professional. Probably a snow camo pattern

Got the snorkel mounted up and plumbed in. Washer fluid bottle needs to be relocated to the passenger side still.

Got the 2007 Mini Cooper seats mounted in the truck. I used a combination of the Mini seats, Mini sliders (narrowed) on custom brackets welded to the MJ bench brackets. They feel great and the sliders work!

I built this snorkel for my old 97' XJ. I still have it and plan on putting it on my 90' Comanche soon. It utilizes the factory air box, and I never saw a loss of MPG or had any issues running it in the rain. No pics under the hood that I can find, but I cut a hole in the back of the airbox and used RV sewer tube to connect it to the snorkel. The airbox retained the factory opening in the front, and I made a small cover that went over that opening when I went wheeling. I ran my 97XJ windshield deep in the water MANY times and never had an issue, snorkel functioned great!

I don't... Looking for a set though.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/43602-led-taillights/ See that thread for info on the tail lights

Added some LED tail lights today, pulled the bench seat out, and threw in some new seats out of an 07' Mini Cooper vert. I still need to build the brackets, but they're heated and only cost me $80!

Imitation is the best form of flattery right? Is that the saying?

I spent 2 hours in the hot sun pulling 20-30 injectors from a ton of Neons. All 74somethings. No 703's, too many Jeep guys around Denver I guess. I ended up with another set of stock injectors for $60, and the truck runs now! I found 703 remans on ebay for $150 shipped for 6, I'll probably go that route once I fix a few other issues with the truck. Good deal for some Vovle injectors too! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Six-Volvo-Bosch-Fuel-Injectors-95-98-850-960-S70-V70-C70-V90-S90-0-280-155-746-/390863124428?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0141f7cc&vxp=mtr This is why I needed new injectors. Previous owner drilled holes in the gas tank putting Brat seats in the bed. Then the mud and water got in, and the Jeep sat for a few years. This is the aftermath.

I did a ton of reading here... http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92236 But I'm looking for further confirmation. It looks like the "703" neon injectors are the best upgrade for the Renix and HO motors. I'm going to the junkyard today to try and find a set. If they don't have them, someone local has a 97' TJ fuel rail and injectors on craigslist for $40. Will 97' injectors work on a 90' Renix motor or will the 39-43psi vs. 49psi be an issue? I don't want a "fuel wash" condition where fuel goes unburnt, soaks the cylinder walls, thins the oil and then spins the rod bearings ( a common problem if you use injectors that are too big).