rokcrwler

Still curious as to which ground I should be looking at? Or adding??

What ground? on the tank? the sender? or on the cluster? -or- Do I just replace the sender? If I change the sender, will I be able to get it from the parts store? or?? Thanks for all the help

If I unplug the connecter from the cluster and plug it back in, its good untill I turn the key off and back on. I'm not sure why it would loose power after that?? Even just wiggling the connecter it won't work right again untill I unplug it..

So my fuel gauge went crazy (way past full) the other day. So I pulled the dash apart and cleaned the connection plug that goes into the back of the cluster and it worked for a month or so.. I did it again and this time it only stays correct until I turn the key off and back on..? Even if I just wiggle the connection itll read accurate only until I turn the key off to back on. Any Ideas? Thanks

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/c ... 13939.html

Yes the PLASTIC speedo gear is in near mint condition. The tail shaft gear (or spiral gear) is somehow ground down and looks knurled. NO more spiral. The trans shifts AMAZING! Smooth and crisp. Nice red unburnt fluid. 1)Yes the gear engages nicely. 2)Yes I can get needle motion with the new or old cable. 3)Yes I did this and nothing, because the spiral gear is mia.. I am just going to buy a used 2wd trans and rob the tail shaft with the gear and install it. I am totally lost as to why it would go out and leave nothing behind. Let alone not chew up the plastic gear. Maybe it was something the previous owner had issues with but never told me. IDK :doh: Oh well, thanks. On a side note, this truck came from Gainsville, FL. I'm the third owner. I have a folder of EVERYTHING done to the truck, with receipts, since mile 25 odo. Second owner only drove it for a couple years, then it sat for 4 years and I picked it up.. Its a sweet little dd thats pretty much rust FREE!!

Does anybody have any ideas??

Anybody???

The plastic gear was in good shape. It is the gear on the tail shaft. It looked like metal of some sort, not brass when I looked inside...

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/p ... 53905.html

In my XJ I had the second batt mounted where the stock air box was. I used two smaller (physical size) batterys. Worked very nice.

So recently my speedometer just went out on me. So I bought a new cable and started the install. Tore the dash apart, got the cluster out and cleaned up, ran the new cable and reassembled to no avail. Looked into it more and it turns out where the cable and gear mount in the back of the trans, the gear on the tail shaft is pretty much just a nurle(nearly smooth but like some ratchet handles) So my question is, Where can I find one and how tough is it to install?? Thanks in advance!! :cheers:

ok thanks, back to the drawing board..

I am guessing a big part of your problems are related to your suspension design. From these pics it looks like your upper arms are close to half the length of your lower arms. This is going to greatly rotate your pinion down as the suspension droops which will probably result in binding pretty quickly. I think you are going to need to redesign your suspension, lengthen your upper arms, and move there body side mounting points further back. Willy How come this works then? :huh???: Image Not Found Its a long arm kit for a Mega Cab Diesel.. I think I am going to try a Jesse at HAD.

I have tried a non cv. and I have tried the 2 piece with carrier bearing, twice.. no good.. couple pics.. no front shaft to show the angle, but you kinda get it..

square tubes for the slip, maybe. but what about the u joints and yokes... the problem areas. thanks though :cheers:

yup its clocked as far as itll go..

The reason of the slip (3"in, 3"out, 6" total) is the angle even with the long arms. The tcase is really close to the yoke on the axle, lots of travel, so it needs the slip. The main prob I think is the 350/350 combo. Shorter motor, shorter tranny, and a Dana 60. Brings it all close for the height. I have even tried lowering the front just to get it to work. Like 5"s.. Both u joints, upper and lower, have broke because I havent found high enough angle yokes or "cv's". They bind and break. I called the Driveshaft Superstore and I may try the BadBoy 80* and give that a whirl..

Ya I have called a few (can't remember names either) Some of them are pretty $$$. I may try pushing the front axle forward 4" maybe 5" and see if that helps..

I would prefer not to say.. I have talked to Tom Woods and at the time, nothing. (I do have a rear ds from him) I've looked into the BadBoy and BadBoy Jr.. Wasnt sure if it would hold when I talked to them. At this point I have about $1200 into ds's/yokes and don't want to "test" anymore just to hope it works.

They were new yokes for every DS. I need a very HIGH ANGLE set up.. Ujoints were 1310's, 1350's, and offset 1350's. still broke em..

Not sure if this is where it should be but... I'm in need of some help guys.. I'm having a problem keeping a front driveshaft in my XJ. So, what are you guys running on yours? I'm asking for input from 10" lift + and 37" tires + guys.. I'm running 38's, D60's, 3-link triangulated, SBC, th350, and an Atlas. Distance between yokes is only 28". Static angle is 31* and drops to 65*, I need about 6" of slip.. I have tried 3 companies DS's and .. Sooo, what do you think?? TIA -drew