Katzer

I am almost positive those are the part number i ordered but the links are only. 8 1/2" long. Is the 13 3/4" measurement from end to end or from mounting hole to mounting hole. Gonna cut mine and weld in a piece of rod to lengthen them. Just need to know how much to add.

Doing a 4wd conversion on my 1989. Put in RE 5.5" coils and ordered some MOOG sway bar links suggested on lift thread on here. They seem way to short though. They are only 2" or so longer than stock. So with the u shape adapter they are only 3" longer than stock. Shouldn't they be 5.5" longer than stock for a 5.5" lift??? Can't find measurement posted on any of the links included in 5.5" lift kits. Any help would be appreciated.

Putting in a lift and the RE drop bracket. The upper control arm is a good 3/8" narrower than the space created with the boomerang bracket. Should I just crank it down tight to the control arm? I think it will tweek the bracket. Confused. The lower control arms fit in the drop bracket real snug.

It won't be plug and play because the control on your dash doesn't have AC on it. You will have to source a unit from the scrap yard.

Another update. It ran great for about 2 days and the miss has slowly grown worse. It is now so bad again it really can't be driven. I have sprayed WD40 in the distributer again and this time it didn't change the way it runs. I have sprayed down my vacuum lines with throttle body cleaner and I don't think I have any leaks. I am not sure the EGR is working right. I can't ever feel it move when revving the throttle, maybe engine has to under sustained load to open. It has been extremely wet this year and now extremely hot and humid. I can't figure it out. Going to replace coolant temp sensor and attempt to remove Air intake temp sensor (pretty sure this one will just break off). Maybe try to do EGR delete? Getting tired of throwing money at it, but at a loss for what else to try. Replaced the following already Fuel pump fuel filter CPS O2 sensor Plugs and wires

I just used enviro-safes r-12,134a substitute. It is cools well. Doesnt turn it into an icebox but it works. I would use it again.

Update. After many days of effort, I pulled off the distibutor cap and sprayed it down with WD40. After a few minutes of idling it has stopped the stumbling under load. The cap and rotor look brand new and there are no cracks in it. Going to see how it goes for a few days and see what happens.

Its a 1989 2wd 2.5L

I have found many post with the 4.0 vacuum harness part numbers. can't find them for the 2.5 and nothing online either. Are us 4cyl. guys just SOL. I could modify the 4.0 harness but that defeats the purpose. Remove the old harness and create new custom system???

If I put a vacuum hose on the egr valve and suck on it should I be able to feel the diaphragm move with my fingers?(don't have a hand pump) Having idling and poor driving issues and I have 15 in of vacuum to the EGR valve with the solenoid unplugged but the EGR valve does nothing. It doesn't move at all and whether it is hooked up or not makes no difference on how the engine runs. I think it may be bad. I took it off and cleaned the build up off of it and can manually move the diaphragm but it made no difference after cleaning. They are very expensive don't want to buy one just to try it. Suggestions?????

Have you had any luck? Mine is back to running like crap again. I have tried everything I can think of. Done all of Cruiser's tips except distributer indexing( not sure I completely understand it). I will let you know if I figure mine out.

Cruiser My jeep is an 89 2wd 2.5L. When I ohm tested my grounds I got 1.4 ohms. I am going through your steps to try and fiqure out my crappy running issue. I have traced the brown/white wire from IAT sensor and it is spiced with the CTS, and ANOTHER BRWN/WHT THAT RUNS THROUGH THE FIRE WALL AND DISAPPEARS. The MAP sensor's brwn/wh wire and the TPS brwn/wht also disappears into the firewall. There is no other splice unless it is under the dash between the firewall and ECU. Can I just cut the MAP, TPS, IAT, and CTS brwn/wht and spice it with the brwn/wht that runs through the firewall from the IAT, CTS factory splice? (this would be the wire described with all caps) I hope this makes sense. I am just confused because I never found the second splice talked about in your tips. I am guess that the second splice is under the dash.

All my grounds are as shiny as i can make them. Cleaned elec connections yesterday and now it runs worse. I think i have a bad wire or connection somewhere. Gonna give it another try this coming week.

Okay fellas...long story.... 1989 2.5L 2wd. When I first got this beauty it had a hesitation/constant stutter with lack of power during acceleration. It initially stumbles on start up but a short touch on the accelerator and it purrs like a kitten. On acceleration it runs like it is not getting enough fuel or too much. The jeep had sat for a while so I dropped the tank and cleaned it. While I was there I put a new fuel pump in it. I changed the fluids and put new plugs and wires in it. The distributer looks brand new so I left it. That didn't fix it. So I refreshed all the grounds, shiny as a new penny. Didn't fix it. I traced and fingered every vacuum line searching for holes like a 16 year old in a 2 dollar lady of the night house. Found some leaks..Didn't fix it. So I started testing sensors. Everything tested fine except for my Manifold Air Intake Sensor. It was way out of the spec that I found on here. I went to the parts store to find out they couldn't get it. Researched online and yep..its not made anymore. I cleaned the connection and tried to remove it... not gonna happen Cap'n! Its gonna twist off and break. I posted on here and was told to tighten my intake manifold bolts and clean/check connections again. So I did and SURPRISE it was fixed!!!!! Fast forward 3 glorious weeks of smooth 2.5L Comanche drivin'. Was driving home in the rain and the stutter returned. I have rechecked the manifold bolts, the sensor connections, refingered vacuum lines, recleaned grounds, CPS looks clean, took off distributer(it looks new inside also) I have tried everything I can think of. Please help.

I hve unplugged that sensor a half dozen times before yesterday and it never made a difference before. But yes I hve started going through your renix tips. Thanks again.

Update.. I tightened my manifold bolts, a quarter to a half turn, not very much. Tried to remove my IAT. Pretty sure it is just going to snap off, so I soaked it in PB Blaster. During that process I had to unplug the sensor. Miraculously the jeep runs like never before. The stumble and hestitation is gone, and it has more power than ever! Not sure what fixed it but I will see how it goes for its next few trips. Thanks for the tips

I have a 1989 with similar problems, though not as bad. Mine idles great but if you goose the throttle manually it initially stumbles like its missing and then will right itself. If itis underload going down the road it won't right itself it just runs like it is missing or starving for fuel and has halfthe power it should. I have cleaned all my grounds, new fuel filter, new fuel pump and cleaned tank(which seems to have made it worse??) Distributer, rotor and plugs look new. Replaced plug wires, vacuum lines look good. My guess is a sensor or injector. I tested resistance in my sensors and all are with in specs except the manifold air temp sensor (which they don't make anymore). Good luck. If you figure it out please post it so i can try it!!!!! LOSING MY MIND!!!!

It is an 89 2.5L. Not sure how to tell if it is dealer installed, but after chasing wires and reading diagrams I am guessing it is a very poorly cobbled aftermarket installation. It doesn't have a low pressure switch and after chasing wires I don't think it was wired for one from the factory. I also don't think it was wired for the AC thermostat from the factory. The PO had the compressor hot wired directly from the AC control switch on the dash and through the firewall. I am trying to fix it the right way. I have figured out how it should be wired but just not sure how to route the temp sensor for it or even where it goes. Thanks for reading.

I am trying to get my AC up and running. It is a cobbled together nightmare. I do not have an AC thermostat under the dash so I am going to order one. I have tracked down the wiring that plugs into it, but I have no idea where to route the temp. sensing end of the switch or where it is supposed to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I also do not have a low pressure switch. It isn't wired for one and the drier doesn't have a switch in it at all. Suggestions on this. Should I try and install one? The drier has a small plug where I think the switch should go.

I am considering a sm420 swap into my comanche 2.5L...question..... i have read to use a bellhousing from a 2.8L s10(which would have been mated to a BW T5), i have a BW T5 trans and bellhousing from a 85 cherokee....wouldn't it be the same bellhousing????

MJ Junkie... best laugh I have had all day. I am having a rough time finding an AX5 out of Cherokee to put in my Comanche. I would really like to get this thing on the road. I have a set of 4.10 axles out of a Cherokee to complete the 4wd drive conversion. I just can't find a trans. I found a 2.5L automatic Cherokee today and was tempted to buy it so I can get mine on the road. Well that being said I guess I will keep looking for the AX5. Thanks for the input.

Can I put a automatic transmission out of a 2.5L 1986 Cherokee into my 2.5L 1989 Comanche. The Comanche is a 2wd and the Cherokee is a 4wd. Looking to convert the Comanche to 4wd. Will there be wiring issues. If it is feasible I will be buying the entire Cherokee, but will the two electrical systems match up.

Might want to check what transmission your getting with the 85. I have an 89 2.5L 2wd and trying to do a 4wd conversion. I bought a 85 XJ 5 speed expecting an AX5 and it was a Borg Warner T-5. It doesn't have a CPS in the bellhousing and your AX5 bellhousing will not mount to the BW T-5 transmission. I found it all out the hard way and now I have a tranny I can't use. Lessoned learned: Make sure you know what your buying!!!!!

Ok after scouring the interweb for weeks I am having problems finding and AX5 out of a Comanche or Cherokee without having to drive 1000 miles to get it. There are lots of AX5 trannys and transfer cases out of wranglers that can be found locally. can the transfer case be reclocked to work? Will the transfer case shift linkage fall into the right spots with my comanche? would it be as simple as tapping new transfer case mounting holes? would a transfer case drop kit counter act the clocking angle? Someone dazzle me with their Comanche knowledge!!!! Beginning to lose my patience with this damn truck!!!!!!!

Thanks for all the input. I have discovered that I have a BW T-4 (not an AX5) and have no way to put a bellhousing with a CPS on it to put it in the Comanche. Same bellhousing to motor mounting but different bellhousing to tranny mounts. Maybe I should have kept my Scrambler! At least I understood all of it!!!!!