Jonny878

Hornbrod and Eagle, thanks for the additional information. I began my swap and wanted to retain the Durango pitman arm, but unfortunately it has a different configuration where it meets the drag link. Has anyone used or know if the Durango drag link can be used on our trucks or is there an inexpensive drag link adapter of some type that can be used to accommodate the Durango pitman arm?

I found this interesting. I just got my Durango power steering box and had it cleaned. After it was cleaned it was stamped with GM's info. I had heard Dodge will and does buy parts from other manufacturers......

The bumper looks great. Who did you order it from and how much did it cost?

I am revisting this discussion. I ordered what someone recommended for a Durango power Steering box off ebay, and received the wrong part. People on the forums are quick to estimate what years are actually interchangeable. I am hoping to put here the exact years/models will work our MJs in regard to power steering boxes. Hopefully a one stop parts information search in regard to this issue. Please add to the discussion with verifiable or experienced information. The facts I have read are: What year, make, models, possible part #??? "GM boxes are pretty widely interchangeable, whether they used three or four bolts to mount. The fourth bolt can be ignored in an MJ/XJ, and I think the other three are in the same positions." The Durango viewed later in this thread was a GM bearing part # 26055055 GM-SM 2 This is confirmed "Got a new (to me) ZJ steering box installed today from a 95 Grand. All the 92-1/2 to 98 ZJs boxes had a quicker steering ratio than our XJ/MJ boxes (12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1)." This is confirmed Durango (other possible years?) 99 V8 4X4 (must have this criteria) Unconfirmed Grand Wagoneer or Wagoneer: Grand Wagoneer 4 bolt holes Wagoneer 3 bolt holes

The leather power seats are in, but they are to tall. I think if I have to do this over, I am going to cut the transfer case hump out on the DS and reweld it flatter to acomadate the 20" rails of the new seats.

Interior close to finished, just need to wire guages, HVAC and Stereo, install kick panels and seats. I will hopefully get the seats in this weekend.

Anything would go at this point. I am thinking red velvet with shag!

Stock headliner after fiberglass and resin applied. After it cures I will sand down any rough spots. To do this it would cost approximately $27. I used two resin cans which were about a quart each. Each resin can costs $11.50 at Wal-Mart. Fiber mat about a square yard is $5.

philbert001, not to keep beating the drum, but great advice. That last part in regard to the gun is very helpful (HVLP) also. I think I may have to give vehicle painting a try (always wanted to). After reading everyone's experiences, that $200 Maaco paint job looks like its more hassle than its worth. I thought it might fade in a year or two, but a few months.... I will reconsider. The top of my truck is so faded nothing but new paint will bring it back. I was thinking for that price (Maaco's summer special) it will give the truck a little shine and get it one color, but maybe not.

Hopefully soon. This project has been gone longer than I anticipated, I am a little strapped for time. I finished applying fiberglass to the back of the headliner last night. The liner was made of a pressed paper/fiber material that was collapsing and impossible to pull the old headliner material off of it without destroying the headliner. I will post a pic later.

I spent a total of $42 dollars on this project. And it was an easy one. Orielly cone reusable air filter $25 Home Depot 3" rubber 45 degree plumbing elbow $13 Plastic 3" ID pipe $4.00 ( I used aluminum pipe that I had laying around with and O.D. of 4") It kinda looks like an LS1 intake ;) There is a nice bend in the engine bay compartment for the filter. I also glued a piece of foam just below the filter on the engine compartment. This will keep the filter from vibrating and moving. Don't forget to plug the two vacuum hoses. I used a bolt for each line, that match the ID, for a good snug seal.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I installed this about a 1 1/2 months ago. Two problems occurred. 1) the lower dash bracket will need be close to exact. I am going to have to readjust it. Before marking your holes for the two floor board dash bracket nuts, verify that the dash frame center vent pushes up tightly against the HVAC center dash vent. IF all is good then mark the lower dash bracket holes. (Do this FIRST before doing any drilling and mounting) 2)The dash will need to be leveled. It was about 1/2 inch low on the PS. So I had to re-drill the holes to raise the dash. If I were to do this again. Most of the upper brackets I welded in place ended up being support more than anything. They are needed, but they assist in creating a solid upper brace, and the length would not need to be longer than 1". The upper dash mounting brackets were almost next to the windshield. I noticed this when I was installing the dash frame on mine that it was 3/4 of an inch out from the HVAC center vent. this in turn will hit the shift lever when everything is installed. I have to go back and revisit this. I spent 30 minutes trying to locate the obstruction, but I ran out of time and needed to get it together. It almost felt like a part of the dash frame was hitting something. { 09/15/09 The orignal wiring for the MJ head light switch is an exact match to the XJ minus one additional pin. The pin does not effect the MJ plug. The extra XJ ping was probably work for auto light shut off or related feature

Yes, you are correct. The sensors will be a little more tricky. I am still trying to get time put aside to get the rest of my dash frame in. I am currently rewiring the HVAC system. I currently have the wiring diagrams for the XJ. Once I get that fan control configuration worked out I will move on to a couple of other areas. The gauge cluster will be last on my dash install. I most likely will retain all 'idiot lights' and put them into a different configuration and move to electrical gauge sensors. The speedo looks like it will be straight forward, but I am going to look at that in more detail later.

--My goal of this swap is to use all existing MJ wiring to accommodate the later model hardware-- I started this post here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=784661 But I could not post pics, which I will here. I will go back and revisit the steps and give a little more detail of solutions, more pics and problems I ran into. So here goes...

Hello all, first post. New to me Comanche and really enjoying it. I just got back from pick a part and located a cherokee that had door parts I needed. Needless to say I was getting everything and picked up a instrument panel that had guages for oil, water, RPM!s and a couple others. I chopped the wiring harness cable (incase it needed to be rewired a bit) with the cluster, but was unsure if it would work. So here is the question... Will the 1992 Cherokee instrument panel work with a 1986 Comanche? Thanks