ocskipper

OK, I don't think it is leaking into the fuse panel, if we are talking about the same one. I changed a fuse last night and there were no signs of fluid. Also, the fluid seems very dirty and black inside the fill.

My clutch goes soft and I am out of fluid. I checked the bell housing and there is no sign of a leak. I have an internal slave (it is an 87' 2.5L MJ) so I guess I can't be sure of a a leak there unless I take it apart. Any other ideas where the fluid would be going? How hard is it to replace the slave cylinder? Thanks. :USAflag:

The smell is the problem I had when mine went bad. I couldnt fix it fast enough! :ack: If you take it off make sure you know what your doing.

Yes, you need it for your truck to run correctly. There is no need to remove it, what is your motive?

Yes, it is part of your emmissions systems and the truck will not smog or run right without it...

I'm in cali too, costa mesa right outside of newport. 4 feet at mt. high!! Hittin the slopes this weekend. It has melted for the most part, but even silverado canyon got snow early in the week.

:agree: I had the same problem and the same fix. On a similar note, my left turn indicator stays on all the time when the headlights are on but the turn signal still works. The front bulb seems weak but is still working. Is that some sort of alert telling me to change the bulb or is my switch going out? :dunno: Another issue is that my dome lights don't turn on at the switch anymore. I know the interior lights suck and am planning on replacing but I figured it could be another sympton of a bad switch. :USAflag:

How do I get my hands on one of those?

I am looking into the motion offroad budget boost myself and wanted to know if it levels out with the install. I have a slight rake now (lower in front) and want the truck to sit level. :wavey: :USAflag:

Found this in the DIY forum. Hope it helps :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9151 :USAflag:

I got the connector out and connected all the lines directly. The manche is purrrring now. Thanks for all the help!! :cheers: :USAflag:

:hijack: Sorry.... Motion off-road has a 2 inch "budget boost" that includes shocks for about $250.00 I would like to put this on my 87 2.5L 2wd DD. Does anyone have experience with this kit? :USAflag:

Thanks for the help, i will check napa for that part and cost. I might just eliminate the part, the more I looked at it today the more i feel it is pointless. You will probably see a post up soon with some wiring questions on some new interior lights! Thanks guys.

You are sure that the plastic connector holds no other purpose? I would like to eliminate it as it just seems like a pain, but don't want any complications. I figured the light was something as dumb as that, wish I could get rid of it. On a side note...could a bad or going bad headlight swith effect my dome lights. One works only when I adjust it at the actual lense by moving it up or down but not at the switch, and the other doesnt work at all.

You are sure that the plastic connector holds no other purpose? I would like to eliminate it as it just seems like a pain, but don't want any complications. I figured the light was something as dumb as that, wish I could get rid of it. On a side note...could a bad or going bad headlight swith effect my dome lights. One works only when I adjust it at the actual lense by moving it up or down but not at the switch, and the other doesnt work at all.

I have searched everywhere, including my haynes manual for a detailed description of what this is. I am having problems with the lines going in, I think it is just a connector but am unsure. Reffering to the picture below, here is my problem... #1. The line broke off right outside of the inlet and i can't figure out how to install the line. It is a very tight fit and the remainder of the broken peice is still inside which creates a wonderfull whistling sound while driving. The vaccuum is comming out of the port and I have no idea what it is for. Any explinations and fix ideas?? :hmm: #2. Same problem with this line. I have used a little rubber connector as a temporary fix. No idea what it is for, but can't get the line to re-insert. #3. This I know is the MAP sensor line. I included it as a reference but it also is loose and falls out at times. I also have a light comming on as I shift from gears 1 through 3. It doesnt light up in 4th and turns off when I depress the clutch and when I first engage in gear. I don't know what the light means, nothing on it in the haynes manual. Thanks for the help... :cheers: :USAflag:

I have searched everywhere, including my haynes manual for a detailed description of what this is. I am having problems with the lines going in, I think it is just a connector but am unsure. Reffering to the picture below, here is my problem... #1. The line broke off right outside of the inlet and i can't figure out how to install the line. It is a very tight fit and the remainder of the broken peice is still inside which creates a wonderfull whistling sound while driving. The vaccuum is comming out of the port and I have no idea what it is for. Any explinations and fix ideas?? :hmm: #2. Same problem with this line. I have used a little rubber connector as a temporary fix. No idea what it is for, but can't get the line to re-insert. #3. This I know is the MAP sensor line. I included it as a reference but it also is loose and falls out at times. I also have a light comming on as I shift from gears 1 through 3. It doesnt light up in 4th and turns off when I depress the clutch and when I first engage in gear. I don't know what the light means, nothing on it in the haynes manual. Thanks for the help... :cheers: :USAflag:

The slave is on the inside if the bell housing. There should be a bleed line that comes out though. If you are checking for a leak, usually the bottom of the bell housing will be stained or wet.

The slave is on the inside if the bell housing. There should be a bleed line that comes out though. If you are checking for a leak, usually the bottom of the bell housing will be stained or wet.

The ground is on the side I replaced the bulb. (back drivers side tail light? i gave it a curory check (made sure it was securely connected and followed the line until it dissapeared into the truck body? and it looked ok. I am not sure if there was a pre-existing problem, but I am leaning that way now. it is weird that so many things stopped working. :wall: Any suggestions on where to start? :help: :USAflag:

The ground is on the side I replaced the bulb. (back drivers side tail light? i gave it a curory check (made sure it was securely connected and followed the line until it dissapeared into the truck body? and it looked ok. I am not sure if there was a pre-existing problem, but I am leaning that way now. it is weird that so many things stopped working. :wall: Any suggestions on where to start? :help: :USAflag:

yes, I am 100% sure it is the right bulb and installed correctly. It lights up when i click on the turn signal.

So, what is my fix? Or at least where do I start? The ground inside the tail light fixture? btw, it is the 87 comanche. Thnx

I went to replace the top rear tail light bulb on the drivers side and made things worse! :fs1: Now when i turn on my headlights I have no tail lights. My brake lights and turn signals work fine, but my inside dome lights, instrument panel light, tail lights, and backup lights don't work. i checked the fuses and they look fine, not to mention it look like the b/u lights and the turn signals share a fuse. Am I missing something here or what! :huh???: :USAflag:

Thanks for all the help, I ended up figuring it out using your help the shop manual. I have a ccv system and the little tube comming off of the filter on the back of the valve cover was not hooked up to anything. I reconnected it to the intake manifold and am hoping that is where my oil was comming from. Without any vacuum to take the fumes and stuff out of there I figure it was just spraying out everywhere? Also, the MAP sensor vacuum line was disconnected and I had another bad vacuum line. I am using silicone as a temp fix but will need to eventually replace them all. Since hooking them all up again, it is running A LOT BETTER!!! :cheers: