hogelectra

Here is what my research has shown me - still have problem - but have been researching what to look at. It seems the fuel injection system/Carb is not reaching an operating temperature or the system is not responding correctly to the cold. 1. The choke could not be staying closed long enough or at all. 2. The engine may not be reaching a working temperature - thermostat opening to soon 3. The fuel injectors could be bad If anyone else knows of a potential cause please add. My approach: 1. Check the thermostat first - it's easy. Pull it and put into some water and start heating it until it open and record the temperature of the water - my question what temperature thermostat is best? 2. I had already cleaned the whole area with carb cleaner - what I'll guess I'l do is see from the outside what indicates the choke is closed. Start the engine and watch what happens. 3. Now the injector - don't know what to do there except maybe replace it.

Here is what my research has shown me - still have problem - but have been researching what to look at. It seems the fuel injection system/Carb is not reaching an operating temperature or the system is not responding correctly to the cold. 1. The choke could not be staying closed long enough or at all. 2. The engine may not be reaching a working temperature - thermostat opening to soon 3. The fuel injectors could be bad If anyone else knows of a potential cause please add. My approach: 1. Check the thermostat first - it's easy. Pull it and put into some water and start heating it until it open and record the temperature of the water - my question what temperature thermostat is best? 2. I had already cleaned the whole area with carb cleaner - what I'll guess I'l do is see from the outside what indicates the choke is closed. Start the engine and watch what happens. 3. Now the injector - don't know what to do there except maybe replace it.

Ok realize I live in Arizona and here getting cold is down in the 50's. I have had no running problems for weeks but now the temperature has started to drop I noticed that it runs real rough and hesitates at any speed. Any thoughts - 86 MJ 2.5L Need to add that earlier I did a complete tuneup. New plugs, emission devices, vacuum hoses. Cleaned all around the carb with cleaner. Almost foregot that I installed a new thermostat Did that the first thing - it was still hot and ran fine

I appreciate the help - looking forward to pics

The nut is it a regular nut or a nutsert/rivetnut? Everywhere I turn my MJ has nutserts/rivetnuts - I just bought a bynch myself for repair work.

Could someone past some pictures of how the power sterring unit is installed on a 2,5L

Now I like this approach - I'm outside right now mocking it up to tack weld the pieces. And not only are they different distances but the angle for my cross bars that connects to the frame changes. I'll start taking pictures at this point so others can learn from my mistakes. Still have one open question - I have two ways of attaching the plates to the frame. 1. Self treading bolts 2. Nutserts/rivetnuts

Yes home grown and not thought out - finding that everywhere and correcting as I discover his handywork. What I need is to see a factory setup and see if there is a way of fixing this

Went to the auto store today - only one hose for the lower radiator. Here are more pictures. I sure appreciate this help. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Got caried away later with the welder checking voltage but here is the tool. All I did then was put a bolt through the tool (nut was larger then bolt - I even bored it out smooth) and then just screw the nutsert on. Hold the tool level and tight and tighten the bolt to expand the nutsert. Image Not Found

The previous owner installed a PS unit on my MJ. It works fine but when I go under neath working on the suspension I found something alarming. By adding a new fan belt to the configuration it rubbed against the lower radiator hose. So to solve the problem he zip tied it to a control arm. I can see me in the desert here in AZ and the zip tie breaking and wearing through my hose, water draining out and my engine overheating leaving me strained. My question how best to fix: 1. Better way of holding the hose away 2. Find a replacement hose that is longer that will naturally not run against the belt 3.. The PS unit has to come off Image Not Found

http://www.318ti.org/notebook/nutserts/ I made one change - I welded a bolt that size matched the diameter of the flange of the nutsert. Worked great

Restoring and setting up my MJ is continuing to be fun and educational. Now I fabricating rock guards/slider for the side - with my longbed it is a must. I'm using 3/16"x2" square tubing. My question is if I measure at the center of the door and measure from the frame how far should it be to the outside of the slider. I know it needs to be enough to stick out past the bottom of the truck but how much. My first thought was 14" from the frame to the outside of the slider - anybody's other thoughts.... When done I publish pictures and a design. Of course if someone already has some to share that would also be fruitful

I have 50 extra nutserts or rivetnuts so I got that covered and found a website on how to make the tool for about 2 dollars. So I'm off to the junkyard tomorrow and get an XJ and see how it goes.

I have a 86 MJ longbed, 4x4, 2.5L, 4sp manual. Will a skid plate from a Cherokee fit - looks like it might

Alright - information - just what I was after. I have just the right hammer to whack it with - just wants to check before I whacked it. The MJ is not lifted yet but that is my plan to lift in 1 3/4 " - but I'm sure the axle has not been centered so after I whack the mount I'll start my research on how you center the axle. I appreciate all of eveybody's repsonse and help

The Lower Drop Link mount is what the swaybar control link attaches to the axle

The lower sway bar drop link mount on the passenger side is bent inward toward the frame. To the point that it's causing the other side to rub against the frame. My question is how to straighten - is this something I have to take to a body shop or can I do it.. For instance do I ned to heat it with a torch before bending it back or can I just take a big hammer and go to it.

Didn't know about that - went and check out Rusty and it looks like they now manufacture a arm like that where you don't have to do all the mods to make it fit and you cut the new clearance thanks - I'll add that to my project list

My wife for years has claimed I'm dense and unless it is explained to me 3 times with pictures I still might get the wrong outcome. I've read all most all of the posting on the subject but I think every case is different - I'm a 60 year old man that is very conservative in what he does - but I really enjoy my new MJ - had now for 6 weeks. I have an 86 Comanche 4x4 longbed with the 2.5L 4sp I am planning on doing the simple lift of spacer up front and shackles in the rear to give me a 1" lift or 2" if I can find the right kit or components - just put brand new Rough Country shocks on. If I do a 1" lift as described what can I run safely without rubbing anything are speeding up bearing ware: Rim 5x7 or 5x8 and recommend BS - jeep standard or aftermarket? Tire Mud - I know a 30x9.5 will work - I think I can run that without doing anything but what is the safest size I can run. If I can do a 1 1/2 or 2" lift how does it change the picture. Have no desire to go any higher. Remember this is a 4 banger Thanks for you advice