OffRoadOhio

I just had a revalation becuase of that comment. At idle the EGR stays closed when hooked up. When I open it manualy at an idle the engine dies. If I rev the engine it'll open up for a little bit and then close. I wonder if the EGR isnt just sticking open? I havent checked the EGR when it dies, ive only checked it in my garage after warm but while running.

Yes, I forgot to mention that ive cleaned the crap out of the intake. I even used the "fuel system and intake tune up" stuff that we sell at the shop I work at. It hasnt changed at all.

I searched and found similar problem but none that matched my identical issue. Ive also tried some fo the suggestions in those threads with no luck 90 cherokee 4.0 L auto Ive been fighting this issue for over a year, here is the story so far. Jeep developed a rough idle when warm, then eventualy it started dying when you would let off the gas while driving, and when comming to complete stops. I learned to keep it running by putting it in N and holding the throttle at approx 1200 rpms until stopped. If it dies and you restart it it idles fine, but it will not idle if you give it gas and then let off. I thought TPS. I replaced it, and it cured nothing. I unplugged the TPS and the problem went away. But with the TPS unhooked it idles rough when cold and has a dead spot in it. I figured that meant the new TPs was bad. So I replaced it with a differant brand. Problem stayed the same, again I unhooked the TPs and it runs fine once warm now. I have messed with the EGR, I unplugged the vaccum hose while at idle and no changes there and I can watch it move in and out when I rev the engine. I removed the IAC and it moves in and out when you turn the key on, I started ti without the iac in and it moved out to try to compensate for the air flow. I left the IAC unplugged with TPs plugged in and the issue stayed the same with no other effects. Did the same with the EGR valve. I've tried TPs plugged in with both the IAC and EGR un plugged, problem is still there. What am I missing?

Would be better with a longer bed. Mayswell buy a subi baja or a 1984 dodge rampage with a bed that size.

Thansk for the info, I thought 4 cylinders had 4.10's didnt know some had 4.56's........... time to go check the tag! I don't believe its the a4w so I'm probably not lucky.

I am sorry to say that I didnt buy a comanche for my first jeep project. however I originaly went to a guys house to look at his $500 comanche. It fired right up and ran great, but the body was in pretty sad shape, so I asked about the two cherokee's he had for sale... First, 1987 Cherokee with towpackage, 4.0 with 5speed... totaly rust free.... the bad..... guy sold the 44 rear from it so he bolted a crapper35 in.( nothing a ford axle won't fix :toast: )... and its been flopped on concrete... so the front right fender is beat up ( nothing a chop can't fix) the draglink end is broken (which cuased the flop) the right windhsield pillar is pushed down a tag which broke the windshield.... front door is tweaked from the pillar, and the rear is pushed in a little from the swingaway tire carrier.... I can still see myself in the paint....! Also when the tow truck drug it back over thier cable slit the oil pan at the top.... we did ad oil and listen to it run, smooth as can be, with about 148k... Next, 87 cherokee with 2.5L automatic, runs but seems to have a vaccum leak... (won't idle right) ash grey color same as the other, pretty solid body... Comes with an extra auto and tcase the guy had from another project... Picked up for for an even $500 both with titles, and to top it off, in exchange for the 5spoke factory jeep aluminum wheels on the 4.0 jeep, the guy is going to deliver one from dayton ohio to my place, leaving me to only have to go and get one.... So the 4.0 one becomes my fulltime trail rig and I may fix and resell the 2.5L one or, sell my mazda protege, and use it as a DD.... Wish the comanche would have been better but couldnt pass the deal up for to xj's for the price of the mj...

I know guys running squares front and rear (trail only)

I'd just find a longer driveshaft and shorten it myself.... as long as the diameter is the same I can redo it all

I have a bunch of driveshafts, and can balance them no problem (friends in the machining trade) I'll be locked alround... its not that I'm cheap, its just right now I have more important things than a wheeling rig to blow cash on ,when I can build it cheap and pretty functional. Could always swap my 300 ford, with c4 and dana20 twinstick in :)

I'm nosey, got pics of the suspension setup?

Already looking into tranny options for WHEN that would happen.... got a buddy running a np435 hooked to his xj 4.0, which sounds NICE!!! I'm thinking being a beater rid a simple spacer up front and tag longer shackle with trimmed fenders to fit 33's, would be all I need for awhile until I bent the control arms.... then I would buy repalcments or long arm it, and go higher...

If I soa, will I need a SYE? Being a trail only rig, and trying to be CHEAP, would a simple 2inch front spacer, with cut fenders allow fitment of 33's, and a simple longer shackle out back keeping the sua, and sacrificing a little ground clearance work?

So being an offroad only ri,g the solution would be remove the sway bar completely, add adjustable control arms... (or a long arm kit) and get an adjustable, or fixed trackbar the correct length......sounds like a visit to my buddies machine shop will be in order......

By links I meant control arms.... I link of it as a four link suspension since I'm not exacly jeep familar. If I go above 3 up front, does it matter which set of arms I change.... I'd assume the lowers would need longer, or the top shorter to keep the correct angles... ??? If 3 is about max for the control arms, is that max for stock steering/tracbar... or will things need changed to go that high?

Going Sunday to check out an 88 MJ, and 88 XJ (rolled, for parts) Both have 4.0 with 5speed. Hope to bring them both home if they meet my exspectations.... ( if the MJ fires up and runs good, and is semi rustfree, they probably will) Not sure if the MJ has a 44 or 35... cuase I dunno much about the mj options (if some one knows that an 88 only has one or the other let me know (or the 8.25....), not sure about the xj either... but anyhow, the rear will go SOA... and if the mj doesnt have a 44( or the cherokee doesnt have one that I can steal), I plan to simply swap the 7.5 ford axle I have with 4.10's and welded carrier from my BII. Now I know its not an 8.8 but, its already "setup" and I've beat on it HARD for two years with no problem at all, so I trust it. (did I mention I already have it so no money than a soa conversion is invovled?) If it has a 44, I'll of course go get 4.10's and keep it in there but still do the soa. Also since the front axle i was working on putting in the BII is a cherokee axle with 4.10's and locker, I'll just go ahead and swap it in aswell (so I don't have to resetup the gears) and keep the other for spare parts... both are 260 jointed with CAD. I'm assuming I'll gain between 4-5 inches in the rear with a soa... based on the g/f's Cherokee (and a post I just read)..... But not sure what to do about the front. Anyone know how high I can lift it, either via coils or spacers before I need to start worring about the tracbar, lower links and drag link? I've found lifts from 1inch up that includes the stuff to move everything...etc, and then i've seen 4inch kits that don't include any, nor mentoin things needed relocated,replaced, so I'm really not sure) And would one recomend a lift coil or a spacer (above the spring) to do the job? I've always delt with leaf springs (cj5.... kinda) and my BII wasnt lifted other than the old style cram between the coil spacer... so I have no experiance in that department.... I'd really like to have it ridin level but if I have to get into relocating things to do so a little lean never hurt no one.... I need the cheapest most reliable rig I can find. found up to 3inch spacers on the net, but where do I look for coils? sorry for the newbie type questions but I'm all knew to coil sprung jeeps.

Thats the same number I figured......

Oh heck I shoulda known that..... I just call it a vaccum disconnect axle....lol, Now I gotcha.

CAD? (help a ford guy out....lol) Not too familar with the new terms I need to be learning.

Wasnt sure when the sizes changed to 297. If I buy the comanchee, for another $200 I can get a good running but rolled xj with the same driveline setup for parts.... this with my 84 30 would give me 3 sets of axles.... I don't figure i'll brake them but if I do I'll be set, then I'll worry about upgrades. I already have a home brewed cable posi-loc I built for $30 as opposed to the $199 prebuilt thing. So I'm good to go there. couple on other sites agree to the 4.10 combo aswell so looks like i'm good to go if I get the commanche! hopefully the guy calls me back soon! Now, I followed an MJ yesterday and it was sprung under....but a 2wd.. did the 4wd's remain sprung under? Its been along while since I saw a 4wd mj around here.... my g/f dd's a 91 cherokee so I know the driveline pretty well... just can't seem to remember if 4x4 mj's are sprung under aswell.... if so, when I swap the 8.8 in (if I get this guys) whats the best way to level the front out, going to be as simple as 3.5 lift coils, and maybe a drop pitman?

I've never owned a jeep and still don't but I'm looking at a 88 Commanchee for the right price. And I was wondering.... I've got a ford 8.8 with 4.10's and a locker.... I know thats an upgrade from the d35... so its definatly going in. I also have d30 from an 84 Cherokee.... I'm sure it has the smaller ujoints than the 88 mj but it has brand new locker, carrier and 4.10;s.... that I could swap into the MJ Got a set of 33's from my odl trailrig id run on it.... 33's with 4.10's in it equals what.... more, less, or close to, stock performance?