The_Slow_Norris

:doh: Point taken. :D

Ok... Ok... Point taken on the Rusty's thing. After the verbal whipping, I landed back in the real world and remember just how bummed and sort of pissed I was when I dealt with them before. Thanks for the reality check. My MJ already has some sort of lift on it as it is running 31x10.5s... front coils are red, though I'm not sure that says anything. I don't really have any spec as to what the stock fender to hub length should be? In any case. I think a something around a 5" lift and 33s sounds juicy enough for wheeling, while not totally killing it as a DD. Honestly, I think I'll work on acquiring doors and bedsides, and do some body work before the lift... I can easily get a more than a few good miles off the Coopers that are on it. Right now, here in Utah, it is just damned cold anyway, I have no heated workspace, and they are calling for a high of 18 degrees (low of 2 degrees) this weekend, so I have some time to digest all my plans. Thanks for all the advice. :thumbsup:

Yeah, now that I settled on selling the CJ5 I had been working on, I am going to look into this wiring deal they did. They really should (and probably would) show me. I looked under the hood while changing the fluid the other day and found no new wiring. Maybe they just ran a wire from the ECU to the fuse box. The jack asses I paid to put new speakers and a sub in (I know, I know, why pay? I was swamped at work and dealing with a crazy landlady sitch where I was just in a rush to get CJ5 mobile) left a messy wiring setup under the dash, so I'll be under there to look in the next week or so. If I can't see anything obvious I'll go back and ask for an schematic or a visual of what they did. I was able to get the wring diagram off of our lovely website here, so in the future I will probably not be sending to them for that again. I must say they made it right, but some communication might have been nice? I would probably give tham another shot I guess, should it be required.

By the way, say the current economic conditions has me going with Rusty's kit... Does one really need to lower the t-case for a 4.5" lift? It doesn't come with LCA either? Needed?

Royal Purple have sulfer? I'm trying to stay brand-tastic. :D

I must say that, I never contacted Rusty's on that sag... truth is after about a month I figured I was good. Then shortly after I noticed the sag... It got worse, but it was my daily driver, so I didn't have time to return springs and wait. Not to mention my apartment complex would not have a truck up on jacks for a week. Other Rusty's lameness was the brake hardware I ordered was incomplete and I ordered a shorty header and got a full one. Not bad except I was not prepared for the additional expense it cost me to ding it in off of my tranny and have an inlet welded (I don't weld, though I probably need to learn :D ). Perhaps this isn't really worth complaining about? They still owe me $30 or so store credit. I'll keep the u-joint thing in mind. After digging through the forums, I found the writeups on the cooling s system. I think I'll wait till mine goes south, before I mess with it. I am feeling the urge to lift, roll bar, and some new BFGs... Those fiberglass things look kind of cool, but honestly I think I like stock look suits me better. Maybe the flared front fenders would provide better tire coverage though. The Utah fuzz is well know for picking on things like that. :( I searched up on the lift thing as well. The motion stuff looks pretty good, but pricey compared to Rusty's or Rocky-Road... not sure how much money I want to dump into her. (I had a charging system mishap this summer that has me doubting the wiring pretty bad.) BUT I know often times you get what you pay for... I read the comments on Rocky-Road. It seems everybody I have known that has had OME spring just loves them. What exactly is it about the "pucks" that folk don't like? I have never seen one break or anything. In terms of their SOA setup... I have the D44 that they say requires "modification." That makes me a little nervous... Not to mention the fact that it would seem that to build it right new perches should really be welded on? Thoughts? I don't weld, but I would rather have a more modest lift, done right, with what I can do, than something that is going to be failure prone. This MJ may be my daily driver for sometime (after the CJ5 bled me :D )

I decided to keep my MJ and get rid of the CJ5 (a matter of space)... I have a couple of questions for those that might be in the know... -Rusty's sells MJ besides (fiberglass)... Of the two orders I placed with Rusty's they have screwed up three items and one of the full leaf packs I put on my XJ sagged hardcore after one month on the truck... ANybody know about these bedsides? Is it worth a shot? ANy other place anyone might recommend? -I know that MJs and XJs are pretty much identical from the cab up, but could one put the new style XJ doors on my 89 MJ? (Really just looking for the newer interior panels... How about Huskey Floor liners? -How hard is it to put the newer style XJ front fascia on? There is a dude here in SLC I have seen driving around with one. It looks pretty cool. Definitly unique. -Anyone know any good write-ups on the open cooling system mod? The closed is doing fine now, but when it goes I think I would like to swap it. -How high can one lift an MJ before having to put on a SYE or longer driveline? -Rocky-Road Outfitters has a SOA 5" or 6" kit, and Rusty's has a 4.5" (with full leaf packs) kit, any other kits out there? (I already mentioned my reservations about Rusty's) Thanks for any input folks... :)

I decided to keep my MJ and get rid of the CJ5 (a matter of space)... I have a couple of questions for those that might be in the know... -Rusty's sells MJ besides (fiberglass)... Of the two orders I placed with Rusty's they have screwed up three items and one of the full leaf packs I put on my XJ sagged hardcore after one month on the truck... ANybody know about these bedsides? Is it worth a shot? ANy other place anyone might recommend? -I know that MJs and XJs are pretty much identical from the cab up, but could one put the new style XJ doors on my 89 MJ? (Really just looking for the newer interior panels... How about Huskey Floor liners? -How hard is it to put the newer style XJ front fascia on? There is a dude here in SLC I have seen driving around with one. It looks pretty cool. Definitly unique. -Anyone know any good write-ups on the open cooling system mod? The closed is doing fine now, but when it goes I think I would like to swap it. -How high can one lift an MJ before having to put on a SYE or longer driveline? -Rocky-Road Outfitters has a SOA 5" or 6" kit, and Rusty's has a 4.5" (with full leaf packs) kit, any other kits out there? (I already mentioned my reservations about Rusty's) Thanks for any input folks... :)

WOW 10w-30 eh? That makes me nervous... The idea of putting anything other than gear oil in a manual tranny makes me nervous. :| How about quantity's for the tranny and t-case?

WOW 10w-30 eh? That makes me nervous... The idea of putting anything other than gear oil in a manual tranny makes me nervous. :| How about quantity's for the tranny and t-case?

How do? I have an 89 Comanche, 4.0L, Manual, D30 (front), D44 (rear), NP231... What fluids should I use? or would you folks recommend? (I don't have the manual) Anything to Royal Purple? TIA

Are you going to lift in the future? If so and a 2"-3" is good enough, just buy the lift w/ new leaf packs... and an adjustable trackbar... You won't need anything else and you'll have a mild lift. Maybe cheaper to grab some of those AALs off of one of the dudes here though. (Have a grinder handy)

Well, I got it back... $920 for the rear main seal, CPS sensor, and diagnosing the short. They ended up running a new wire from the fuse box to the second starter solenoid with a diode on the end. They said that the particular circuit in the ECU that controls spark/fuel during starting. What do ya'll think?

How about a CJ5 w/ a DANA 300? Should I remove one of the drive lines?

Jeez... If I at least had my MJ I could take a picture of the piece and email it to you, Then I'm sure your dealer could match it up with there 2001 TJ diagram. Alas, my MJ have been in the shop for 2 weeks. :cry: I know it's the same tread pattern for the H.O. 4.0L that was in my 91 Cherokee... I'm not sure about the renix system in my 89 MJ.

Correctly? You mean t-case in neutral?

Well they didn't have it finished on Friday and the real bummer is they didn't call... I called today. They didn't call me back today either!?!?! So I googled "TeraFlex Utah sucks." I got a hit for some dudes myspace page... It said he and 3 other guys got laid off there. I guess they are hardcore understaffed. BUT they could at least call me back after 10 business days! I have to believe they will do something to make this right. They have a reputation of being a good shop.

Here's a little interesting tibit in avoiding the hose assembly... http://74.125.95.104/search?q=cache:-Mj ... cd=6&gl=us I am still looking for the write-up involving that TJ part.

It wouldn't be so bad, if they would at least call???

Well here goes... After working on it all weekend... -New Battery Cables (+&-) -Replacing all the fusable link under the hood -Testing the Battery, Alternator, and coil (all good) -General insnspection of the wiring surrounding the battery locale ... I gave up. I had to have the truck gone come Monday morning, when the gracious and kind University of Utah meter maids would have had her towed. :cry: I had to towed to TereFlex Plus because I have had one good service experience and many good parts experiences with them in the past. I towed it the night of Sunday the 24th, so it was there in the morning on Monday. I consider myself a fairly patient guy and I am willing to cut a lot of slack, but this has gotten bad. Let me relate my experience with TereFlex. Monday the 25th: I got a call, told the fellow all that I had done and I needed him to figure out the starting problem. I also wanted to get the rear main, and rear axle pinion seal done as my little CJ5 project was taking so much of my time (and I have to have it done by first snow). He said cool, he was on it. Wednesday the 27th: I call to find out the status as I had not been called. I left a message. It was not returned. Friday the 29th: Being that my message was not returned and frustrated at lack of communication. I called around noon. This time I got the same tech I got on Monday and had the same conversation I had with him Monday. I doubtmy MJ had even been looked at all week. I figured OK. Dude is on it now. Maybe they had a huge load of Jeep to finish for the holiday weekend and now that it has been sitting there all week they will really push to get my stuff done. Tuesday the 2nd: I called at noon, talked to a different service guy who said they were on it and he would have my guy call. He did not call! Wednesday the 3rd: Again called at noon. Got a machine, left a message. My call was not returned. Thursday the 4th: Called at noon, got my tech. He said it was not the CPS or Ignition unit and that it would start sometimes and not others. He believed it to be a loose or otherwise screwed wire somewhere. (And that someone had "glued" my oil pan to the bottom of the block, but they were taking care of the rear main as we were talking). He also said they had not done the rear axle pinion seal yet, but he would get a guy on it and he thought he would have it done by 6pm (closing time). He said he would call me by 3:30pm and let me know for sure whether it would be done that day. I got no call. So I called at 4pm to find out what the deal was. He told me they still hadn't found it, he would call me at 5:30pm if they found it, but if not? It would be the next day for sure. Friday the 5th: Today I called at 3pm, got a machine... They didn't return the call. So I called at 4pm, got a machine, didn't bother leaving a message. I called back at 5pm and got another tech, he said my tech was out on a test drive (Not indicative of my MJ), but that my ride would, once again, "probably not be done today." I told him that it had been there for two weeks and I was told it would be done??? He said he would have my tech call me... Well their closing time rolled around and? Surprize, surprize, NO CALL! :headpop: Jesus Christ will return before they return a call, much less finish my truck. THis is a real drag. I had so much faith in their shop before this and this is such a let down. I almost feel a loss of relationship with a shop I truly trusted. Now to top it all off this will be the 3rd weekend I have had no ride and the second it will be sitting at their shop. Most likely I would have had it done by now fixing it myself??? It has been there for 9 business days. They know it my daily driver and that my other ride is going now. I am officially bummed. What do you folks think?

Well here goes... After working on it all weekend... -New Battery Cables (+&-) -Replacing all the fusable link under the hood -Testing the Battery, Alternator, and coil (all good) -General insnspection of the wiring surrounding the battery locale ... I gave up. I had to have the truck gone come Monday morning, when the gracious and kind University of Utah meter maids would have had her towed. :cry: I had to towed to TereFlex Plus because I have had one good service experience and many good parts experiences with them in the past. I towed it the night of Sunday the 24th, so it was there in the morning on Monday. I consider myself a fairly patient guy and I am willing to cut a lot of slack, but this has gotten bad. Let me relate my experience with TereFlex. Monday the 25th: I got a call, told the fellow all that I had done and I needed him to figure out the starting problem. I also wanted to get the rear main, and rear axle pinion seal done as my little CJ5 project was taking so much of my time (and I have to have it done by first snow). He said cool, he was on it. Wednesday the 27th: I call to find out the status as I had not been called. I left a message. It was not returned. Friday the 29th: Being that my message was not returned and frustrated at lack of communication. I called around noon. This time I got the same tech I got on Monday and had the same conversation I had with him Monday. I doubtmy MJ had even been looked at all week. I figured OK. Dude is on it now. Maybe they had a huge load of Jeep to finish for the holiday weekend and now that it has been sitting there all week they will really push to get my stuff done. Tuesday the 2nd: I called at noon, talked to a different service guy who said they were on it and he would have my guy call. He did not call! Wednesday the 3rd: Again called at noon. Got a machine, left a message. My call was not returned. Thursday the 4th: Called at noon, got my tech. He said it was not the CPS or Ignition unit and that it would start sometimes and not others. He believed it to be a loose or otherwise screwed wire somewhere. (And that someone had "glued" my oil pan to the bottom of the block, but they were taking care of the rear main as we were talking). He also said they had not done the rear axle pinion seal yet, but he would get a guy on it and he thought he would have it done by 6pm (closing time). He said he would call me by 3:30pm and let me know for sure whether it would be done that day. I got no call. So I called at 4pm to find out what the deal was. He told me they still hadn't found it, he would call me at 5:30pm if they found it, but if not? It would be the next day for sure. Friday the 5th: Today I called at 3pm, got a machine... They didn't return the call. So I called at 4pm, got a machine, didn't bother leaving a message. I called back at 5pm and got another tech, he said my tech was out on a test drive (Not indicative of my MJ), but that my ride would, once again, "probably not be done today." I told him that it had been there for two weeks and I was told it would be done??? He said he would have my tech call me... Well their closing time rolled around and? Surprize, surprize, NO CALL! :headpop: Jesus Christ will return before they return a call, much less finish my truck. THis is a real drag. I had so much faith in their shop before this and this is such a let down. I almost feel a loss of relationship with a shop I truly trusted. Now to top it all off this will be the 3rd weekend I have had no ride and the second it will be sitting at their shop. Most likely I would have had it done by now fixing it myself??? It has been there for 9 business days. They know it my daily driver and that my other ride is going now. I am officially bummed. What do you folks think?

I had this problem in my old XJ. I found a right up online that said to replace the CCV valve on the back and replace the inlet fitting (on the intake manifold) with one from a 2001+ TJ. It essentially has a larger hole. And clean out the valve cover good. The result? No more blow-by, slightly cleaner emmisions reading AND no hillbilly-looking "catch" bottles. :D Now temper this with the fact my XJ had the H.O. 4.0L engine setup... I've been so busy with my CJ5 I haven't looked or compared the Renix setup on my Comanche, but it ain't got no blow by and it's up at 176K.

So yesterday my positive battery cable melts down... needless to say it wouldn't start. I replaced both of the battery cable and it turns over super clean now, but won't start??? Help? :oops: (1989, "Renix" 4.0L, manual) Factoids: -I'm pretty sure this occurred because the positive cable's insulation had been (over many years) rubbed off on a corner of a terminal on this "block thing" where the alternator connects to the "terminal block thing." The "block thing" is mounted and runs to the battery. -I believe this "block thing" to be a "Motorcraft Solenoid," but the starter looks to have a conventional solenoid on the starter unit itself. I believe it to be a "MotorCraft Solenoid" because of a picture in a Haynes manual that looks very similar, but I n naturally distrust Haynes manuals. -The battery puts off 12.8v and goes down to 11.5v while I try to start the Comanche. (Seems the alternator is either fried too, or not inline?) -Light dim about the same as always when trying to start her. My initial guesses: - This "block thing/MotorCraft Soloniod" is fried. -The fusible link between the alternator and the "block thing/MotorCraft" is fried. And possibly the 10 or so gauge wire that runs from it to the battery has lost all integrity. -The voltage regulator/alternator is fried. ... and that's why she won't start. Questions: -Is the voltage regulator internally located in the alternator or a separate unit? -Is that "block thing" indeed a MotorCraft solenoid? (Even though the starter appears to have a solenoid on top of the starter itself? -Think it's the alternator? (Or fusible link/wiring associated) -Think it's the Voltage regulator? (Or fusible link/wiring associated) -Anybody have any experiences with a similar/same problem and it was something I didn't even mention here? Any and all help would be great. I work at the University of Utah and the parking patrol nazis will tow my rig monday. I have tonight and tomorrow to get her started or I'll have to fork out and have it towed across town to my house. :bowdown: -May the Jeep god's bless me- :cheers: (Please feel free to poke fun at stuff like "block thing," :D )

My comanche surges while cold. Up and down, up and down. Until it warms up. I tried cleaning the cold air valve? Any thoughts?

@Hellcreek How??? When I went to the Jeep dealer in SLC, Utah, they told me "No we won't fix it and no we can't get parts." Wow my local Jeep dealer just sucks all the way around.