djag12

Can a full auto console from a XJ be use for a manual comanche? It seems like you can just pop out the automatic insert part and than you would have the opening for the manual boot. Anybody know if that would work? :hmm:

Thanks for explaining, I may still put them on when I put my 3" lift on.

Will this type shock help prevent rubbing with oversize tires? Do they limit the suspension flex? Anyone using them?

Don't use it. Our local TV station did a try out and it bombed. Everything they tried it on fell apart.

Can you just send me comanche VIN's. This way it looks like I'm trying to buy a Comanche....just in case.

Please add your email address so I can forward the reports.

I have some CARFAX reports I can run..bought it when I got my MJ at end of Dec. Can run a few till it runs out in a few days. PM me your VIN. I will get to as many as I can. :cheers:

OK. I will definitely do some measuring before I change the wheels.

Thanks for explaining the back spacing thing. I guess for now I'll stick with stock. Do you think with a 3" lift it would be OK or will the rear still have the rubbing issue.

Can someone please help me out. I want to by new wheels and I think the comanche has a 5.25 back spacing. The wheels I am looking at only have a 3.5 backspacing (the ION 171). How does this affect the truck or can't it be done. Oh, I wanted to put 30's on it. :D

Came across this. Thought it may help out those of us in search of a Rollbar. http://www.kanopykingdom.com/truck_bed_size_charts.htm :cheers:

Just want to thank everyone for helping me. The wire to the back lights from the headlight switch was pulled out of the fuse box. The wiring diagrams helped out alot. Now off to get all new brake lines and get it inspected. :cheers:

Anyone bought any good seat covers for bucket seats? Is the CJ seat the same as the MJ?

OK. No go. The switch is fine. Looks like there are two power sources to the switch - the headlight and the back light (which also controls the interior.. So can anyone tell me the two red/black wires that go to parking lights comes from. Is it the fuse box or a direct run to the switch and than the fuse box. I am getting a wiring book but I wanted to get it done this weekend. Oh, if I can't find the bad source is there any harm in tapping off the headlight power? :???:

YIKES.... I'm thinking twice about them. It won't be till summer if I do but them on. Any other nerf bars out there fit the comanche? Does anyone know if the SmittyBuilt universal single steps would fit on the comanche?

OK. I think it's the switch. Of course the parts store didn't have one in stock till tomorrow. So this is why I think. I checked for an open with my DMM. When I have the switched pulled out and test between the main power the only time I get a closed loop is when I am on "H" Headlight. All others are open. I pushed it halfway in and tried to check the "P" park lights (I think) and got the open loop. All other tested open also. So unless I'm testing the switch incorrecty I am almost positive it is bad. I also turned the knob to click on the interior light and that tested open. :smart: Hope some of my schooling helps me out......Please correct me if I'm wrong.

First, i would like to thank everyone for their comments. Now that I now what issues they can bring I may change my mind. I didn't realy pay that much for them anyway. Oh, and by the way mfpdm it's 'she' ;) and thanks for helping me out

OK. Tried cleaning connectors. No go. Actually, the connector is in great shape. Well anyway. I did try to take some voltage readings at the connector. From what I was reading please tell me if I'm correct. The three smaller gauge wires all belong to either the blinker or flasher circuit. The fatter black wire is the ground so that leaves the (i think it was) fatter blue wire to what I think would be the power for the parking lights. If so no power at this point with the headlight switch on. OK. So I got the HL switch out. Can anyone tell me if the "P" terminal on the switch is to be used. My old one didn't have a terminal and the new one does. I haven't had a chance to look at the Jeep again since I went to the parts store.

I will try the connector first. Thanks again for everyones help.

OK. I got the blinkers working. Thanks alot. It was the ground behind the drivers tail light. However, when I turn my headlights on my lights in the rear do not come on. (didn't clean that pigtail connector yet in the rear) Do you think it could be the switch? If so how do I get the switch out. I already took the top part of the instrument panel off. Oh and while I'm there where are the lights to the speedometer so I can see how fast I'm going. :bowdown:

Thanks for all that info. I will try to get it all done tomorrow to take advantage of our nice weather we are having here in the north. I'll give you my update :wavey: Oh can you buy a new switch at any auto store?

I pulled the light out of the sockets in the rear passanger side. The top two lights look like they have some type of "goop" in them but they work when the brake is on. I will try to find the ground behind the drivers side tire. Let you know what I find.

No blinkers. No rear light when headlights are on. Also, if I put the flashers on and step on the brakes they stop flashing. Just got the truck so I know nothing about it. Checked the fuse box. Oh and no interior lights in dash. Does have a hitch. DrawTite so I don't think it's factory. I'm thinking it's a bad ground any help as to were to start? :headpop:

Guess I need to find one. Thanks again for all your help. :roll:

It looks like a panel was there.