Tonedef131

While I was working on the front end of my truck the other day I noticed that the passenger side bads and rotor were completely worn through. So I got a new rotor for the pass side and new pads for both sides. I put it back together and pedal pressure and stopping power all seem fine. Then the next day when I was braking kind of hard while coming to a complete stop they kind of jolted. Still stopped fine, but there was a bit of a bump just once. I tried to get it to happen again and it did not repeat itself so I thought perhaps something wasn't seated right and it was popping into place. But while I was coming to a stop in the parking lot of work this morning the same thing happened again. It only seems to happen when braking a bit hard and completely stopping. I am not hugely concerned about it be because I haven't had any problems stopping, but it is still sort of offputting. I had never done any brake work on a Jeep before and the caliper bolts were different than I was used to (I have only owned japenese automobiles before the manche). When they come through are they supposed to push directly on the pad? I only put them on sort of tight because I didn't think they should be pushing the pad onto the rotor, but now I am thinking I did something wrong.

I already tried that and the only regular zert I have is a different thread size. I really don't mind buying a needle tip, I could use it to get to the u-joint on the drive shaft and a few on our Ford 8N. The hand held grease gun I have is a rigid neck, so that is no issue. Edit: I got a needle tip at autozone for $3, those things are gonna get greased all the time 8)

So that will just insert right into the zert? Thats perfect, thanks!

I got the greasable ones but they have a wierd zert that my grease gun doesn't fit. normally they have like a nipple sticking out, but these are a flat head screw with a small hole recessed within. Does anyone know what kind of tip I need to grease these?

Well I finished putting all of the parts on this afternoon and wanted to thank everyone for their advice. I am glad that I went with the higher quality ball joints since that is one job I NEVER want to do again. But the truck goes down the road and turns so smooth now. I have never seen u-joints that bad, one the caps didn't even have bearings left in it :eek:

That will be step one, I will do this at the next oil change.

I really like the idea of a greasable u-joint, I don't see why you couldn't get to it. Especially since I plan to be taking it on more trails in the near future.

I know that there has already been a great deal of threads regarding oil leaks. However, they are all old and seem to address specific leaks. So a couple of weeks ago I finally attempted to disable the Jeep automatic chassis lubrication system. For the last couple of years my truck has been covering my block/transmission/driveway/starter/ect in oil. So in order to remedy this I changed my valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and rear main seal. I also found that the ccv hose towards the front of the cover was cracked and not plugged into my air box, so I replaced that with a crankcase breather filter. I also checked the line on the back and it was flowing fine. So while I was at it I powerwashed and completely cleaned the valve cover. So it should be breathing well. It still leaks oil. Now there is a good chance that it is still the rear main seal since when I was putting in the top half, at the very end it sliced off just a hair of the rubber. I assume that was excess rubber since it went in very tightly. So before I blame that, I wanted to check everything else that could possibly be leaking. The oil leak has definatly slowed, and the o-ring on the back ccv hose is leaking, so that could very well be it, but what else should I check? The main reason I don't think it is the RMS is because it didn't leak for a couple of days after fixing this, seems if this was the problem it would have leaked from the get go. But if it was the O-ring it would have had to spray out and make its way down the block. Thoughts?

Well I am just going to go all out and do this properly. With the Napa premium ball joints and greasable u joints this will cost over $400, but that beats ever having to do it again.

Well thanks for all the info everyone. I am definitely going to buy the hub assy, partly because no one in town has the seals for the hub in stock. So I am going to grab the $125 hubs from Napa. As for the ball joints I just got the ones that autozone had in stock, but they were pretty cheap. It looks like Napa also has cheap ones or ones for like $50 each. Perhaps if they have those I will pick them up, since I certainly don't want to ever replace those again. My torque wrench only goes up to 150 lb/ft though...

Okay, let me get this straight. I have a press, can I just replace the bearings in a 4WD model or do I have to buy the whole hub?

The timkin ones are $140 each, and special order. I guess I didn't realise they were a sealed bearing going into this, but it is probobly worth it so I never have to mess with it again. They do have some in stock at Napa for $125 each.

It's got a 3 month warrenty, but the only other ones I have seen are twice the cost. Hopefully I will be able to just put the new bearings in though.

Well I will take it appart and look at it, but they have the whole hub assembly for $70 in stock. So if worst come to worst...

Well I will be replacing the wheel bearing cup and cone so I don't need to reuse it. But I have only heard of people replacing the whole hub, so I didn't know if it was more trouble than it was worth. Also, will I need a cup and cone for the inner and outer hubs or does each hub only take one cup and cone? Is there a hub seal? I have never taken any of this appart on my jeep and want to be sure I have everything I need before I start.

I have thursday off of work so tomorrow night I am going to take apart the front end of my Jeep. I need to replace the driver side ball joints and front axle u-joints. I am also going to do the wheel bearings while I am at it since they are getting louder all the time. Autozone stocks either the whole hub assembly or just the cup and cone. If I have access to a press is there any reason I can't just replace the cup and cone and avoid the cost of replacing the hub? will I need anything else?

Yes, that is correct. I did not explain completely on that one, but that's what I did. ;) The shop did not take it off, but because it was not there to start with, they were not required to put one on.The exhaust shop I go to said in order for them to put a new exhaust onto my jeep they would have to add a cat. The only thing I have on right now is a bolt on muffler that I welded in place since it kept falling off. But I have found a couple of places that will work on your exhaust without a cat as long as they don't have to give you a receipt and you pay cash.

Well I just finished installing all of the lights discussed in this thread and it makes a huge difference. I had about $15 into it total and the only one not working right now is the ashtray light, that one is burned out. I haven't had interior light since owning this jeep, so I didn't even know when turning the light lever it kept them on!

It was the second thing, thanks!

I just put some kickpanel lights out of an XJ in my comanche and they are on all the time. Does anyone know why these wouldn't be turning off?

This is the best thread ever, I will be doing this very soon.

That makes sense, thanks for the wrench tip, I will do that.

My sway bar bushings and bracket bushing are pretty much completely destroyed. So I checked autozone and they say there is 4 different sizes of sway bars for the jeep: 7/8, 15/16, 1, and 1 1/8" bars. Was there really this many different sizes of bars available on this truck? Is there any way to find out what size without just taking off the bracket and matching it up with a new one?

That is awesome, I have been thinking about doing that when I repaint my jeep this spring. If I can find a good deal on one like that I certainly will. Question, why would you have changed out the fenders?