layback209

Buying new injectors is pretty expensive. Like 70$/injector. I would spend a few hours pulling and cleaning them, and retry them. You use a pin "kinda like how you clean out a plugged oxy-acetalene tip" to clear them out. Also check you fuel pressure in the rail to see if its to spec. I'm not sure what the recomended range is off the top of my head, but if you have 20$ lying around, pick up the hayes mechanic manuel. Every thing you need is in there. Good luck

DO NOT CHANGE THE WIRES AROUND! The fuel pump will run in reverse or not well depending on what which wires you switch around (there is 3, ground, resistance wire for the float and a hot or positive lead), i actualy tried this lol. Just clip it in. 2 things can happen: A) Truck runs fine B) Truck runs BUT yout fuel gage will be in reverse! (E=FUll Full=Empty) You can fix B by pulling your float off your originol set up and swaping. You can avoid all the problems if you compare units before installing. I'll take some pictures of the fuel unit tonight so you will understand where each wire is going (its the same for all 4.0l mj's).

Well if your fuel filter was clogged with debree it wouldn't be a bad idea to clean out the injectors too. They arn't that difficult to remove, just have to pull the fuel rail and a the c clip on the connector. I would trace all the fittings on your fuel system if you have the time. Check for loose conections. Also have a peek at the plastic vents (plus lines) at the top of the gas tank, if one of them is cracked there is a realy good chance that you debree is getting drawn in through those. Like the above post said, if your dropping the tank might as well clean her out and replace the fuel pumps pick up filter, or if you can't find one clean all the stuck garbage off. Good luck.

I had a fuel leak with my truck to. Thought it was the gas tank. When i pulled it the larger diameter fuel line (from the pump) was leaking at the fitting to the metal fuel line. Couldn't see it until i pulled the tank. Well now that i know where to look. Just give the rubber lines a squeeze at the ends (where they mate with the metal lines), if they are leaking fuel will leak out. It was leaking randomly and from different drip spots under the truck. It would only leak if the tank was above half full. Just a heads up. I made the mistake of buying a part MJ and harvesting the tank from it before finding the 1$ fix (cost me 250$ overall). hope that helps Cheers

1993 rear ccv fitting that goes into the valve cover (1/4 turn twist lock) 53030492 2000 rear tube from ccv fitting 4854265 2000 rear intake manifold fitting 4854194 1993 front breather fitting that goes into the valve cover (1/4 turn twist lock) 53006239 1993 front hose to air box 53030591

Umm, so checked the local NAPA for the ccv parts. They had no idea what i was looking for, i gave them the part numbers pictures, explained that 10 years of 4.0l use this system. The senior guy said they used to carry a full valve cover upgrade for the renix engines, at least he new what a CCV system was with out looking in the computer :roll:. But other than that no luck. Any more ideas on other places to check? I'll try another NAPA in Calgary Alberta as a last resort.

Well canadian tire let me down :(. Guess its on to NAPA. Hope their CCV stuff is cheeper than their weather proof wiring. Cost me 15$ for 10 pins and gromits sheesh. :roll:

Doe forgot today was a holiday. Guess i'll try there tomorrow.

Well i'm grabben my rubber band wad off candian tire money and heading over there right now.

Yep have NAPA here but they cost the same as the dealership well 90% of the time. Doesn't hurt to check. Mabey i'll luck out and Canadian Tire :Canadaflag: will have some chineese made trash lol.

the parts from this mod are what I'm after: I live in alberta canada; now the thing that is bugging me is the fact that the part list in here only cost 30$ us. I tryed to get the equivent here from a dealership and its going to run me 140$????? School costs have got my wallet pretty tight. Any ideas on how to gets the parts at a better price would be appreciated. Cheers, Derek

hornbrod You are my hero! That is the exact VC that I have! And I agree that there is no EGR on this engine I just didn't have the specs and confidence to confirm it. The reason I’m getting a little more blow by than normal could be the fact that I’m putting 5000km + a month on my rig. I do a lot of skiing and commuting. If I can get my hands on the parts in the next couple of days I will try this mod. Sorry about the type O's, I’m an ENGG student can't be helped lol.

Ok, so i talked to the crystler dealership and they claim the 91 4.0L has a PCV, but they don't have the part. I have the Hays manual for 1988 comanches to 1997 Cherokee. But it doesn't have my engine in it! However it does say that all 4.0L's have the CCV set up. So i don't know if the dealership is right or what... They said they would order the pcv for me but, according to what i have read it doesn't exist. Also i wanted to give the EGR a quick squeez test to see if it needed replacing but i can't find it. Its not by the throttle body or anything. There is a sticker diagram under the hood of my MJ but no refference to an EGR. Any help would be appreciated. My engine is haveing a bit of blow by but its not burning any oil so normaly the fix is the PCV if there is one (194K on this engine). I'm on spring break right now so i was hoping to get all the little lose ends on thee mj tied up. Breaks, O2... etc Cheers,

Love it. You have given me a something to shoot for with my mj progect. I like how you sand/media blasted the rust off, i was going to uses a wire rotory brush to buff my rust off but i don't think that will do. I know my nabours will apreciciate the brush over the sand lol. O and the 2 tone hood looks sick